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View Full Version : New Engine is IN!!!......



overlordsshadow
04-15-2007, 07:21 PM
Think the timing is screwed though. Timing lighted it and it said 0. Should be 12 right? The heat gauge is reading off the charts without car started???? Car starts up within a second but then revs to 1100 and dips to 100 and usually stalls. Can limp it for about 2 min into the 1200 range then it will stay at about 1000. Shut the car off after that and try to start again, won't run smooth. I'll do a full reset on the timing tommorow. Any ideas on the heat gauge? How would you read advanced timing like 14-16 when the bell housing only goes to 12?

shelby zed
04-15-2007, 07:59 PM
to set the timing, you need to remove the temp sensor. not sure if you did

overlordsshadow
04-15-2007, 08:00 PM
Had the temp sensor removed. With the temp sensor in or out the gauge is still all the way to the right all the time

Vigo
04-15-2007, 08:27 PM
the gauge reads off a different sender than the coolant temp sensor. the temp sender which is right under cylinder #2 spark plug iirc may be internally shorted.

timing should be set at 12 degrees to get the engine running and you can tune from there later.

Mike M
04-15-2007, 09:52 PM
You need an "advance" timing light to see the marks out of the window... but they aren't necessary for our cars, just turn the dizzy until you see it in the window and put it at 12^ @ idle. Don't set timing if the idle is not smooth and surging.

As for the temp gauge, the temp sender is the 1 wire sender right by #2 plug. Unplug it and it should be sit at the bottom of the gauge, ground the wire to the head (or something) with somebody watching the gauge - it will peg the gauge immediately. If it does peg, then theres a very high probability that the sender itself is screwed. They are cheap new, and even cheaper used! ;)

You sure do work fast, got that thing built and in there pretty quick.

overlordsshadow
04-15-2007, 10:01 PM
Did get it done pretty quick for mainly a one man show. Got the pistons monday, had the engine built thursday night, engine in yesterday and tranny today. hope you project is going good. You coming up to SIR for May 4?

Mike M
04-16-2007, 12:06 AM
I will probably go up with friends but not racing. My Sundance doesn't have anything to prove after running a 14.49 with exhaust and boost controller as the only mods (and slicks :D ).

Did you get the timing thing and temp thing figured out yet?

overlordsshadow
04-16-2007, 10:45 AM
Going outside right now to do the timing and adjust the clutch. Hope to be ripping around settin off alarms by lunch.

overlordsshadow
04-16-2007, 09:13 PM
Have the engine running. Driving good, broken in oil changed. 16 psi is giving me some serious pops. Gapped the plugs to .045 or .45 w/e it is. Friend thinks its the coil. Car is straight piped right now with about 1.5 feet of exhaust downpipe. Need to get more t-bolts and figure out whats makin the car so damn hot in 5th gear boost. When the popping noise happens the car is running good and rich. Any help would be appreciated.

mcsvt
04-16-2007, 09:15 PM
Gap should be closer to 35. Other then that not sure.

Mike M
04-16-2007, 10:02 PM
Definitely close the gap! What plugs are you using? Platinums are bad. You aren't intercooled yet are you, should take it easy on the higher boost (Thats coming from me, I've been running 15-16psi non intercooled since September).

How long have you been driving it? I know some folks do a quick break in of the motor and then beat the snot out of it, but I prefer to be a bit conservative for ~1000kms before running the boost you are.

Is the temp gauge just creeping up in while hauling along in boost/5th gear? Do you have an air dam on the rad support? Is the rad itself in good shape?

Get some pics man, its been awhile since I've seen it. (underhood too!)

Orangetona
04-16-2007, 10:51 PM
Just curious, whats wrong with platinums?

Mike M
04-17-2007, 12:06 AM
They cannot withstand the heat produced by forced induction I'm told, and have heard stories of the plugs coming apart. I stick with stock champions, or I hear NGK is good. Iridium should be just fine but they are a few more $$$, not sure if they are worth the cost.

shelby zed
04-17-2007, 12:45 AM
yeah they fall apart, and champions arent any better at all

overlordsshadow
04-17-2007, 02:48 AM
Using the 9YC champions. Intercooled. Front is open more than you could ever imagine. Want to go for a test run? STeve came with my today and thinks its coil. I'll close the gap tommorow and see what happens

1985ShlbyChrger
04-18-2007, 12:43 PM
I had the popping under boost problem also. Close the gap on the plugs and it should go away. I had to close mine to a 30 gap so it would go away but I'm running between 20-22 psi.

Nate

overlordsshadow
04-18-2007, 01:22 PM
Closed the gap and it worked. No more popping. Can't wait to put the injection kit in and run that 20-22 PSI. With that boost I should run close to the SRT4.

overlordsshadow
04-18-2007, 06:09 PM
What do you guys think about cams? My power band is starting pretty late, about 3800 and goes to about 5600. Is it safe to be redlining when racing? I've got the FWD perf stage 5 comp so that puts the rev limiter at what, 7k? Just wondering if a good cam will help with this new 2.5 .02 over intercooled soon to be Devils injected setup.

Orangetona
04-18-2007, 06:34 PM
I would say go with an S2 cam.

overlordsshadow
04-18-2007, 06:46 PM
Okay and S2 cam is what and from where? Kind of want to learn what part duration and lift have to play in the whole scheme of things and if they have any bearing on how much timing you run and stuff. Have a good solid base motor and now want to tune it.

mcsvt
04-18-2007, 07:38 PM
Is your head ported? What turbo? I didn't read back if you listed it...

A 2.5 isn't going to rev to 7k efficiently unless you have the supporting mods(ported everything)... Even then, I would think it will be tough.

Also the S2 is a Taft S2. I hate to say search, but cams are one of the most talked about topics. You can get very far on a TBI cam, but I would read up.

overlordsshadow
04-18-2007, 11:52 PM
The motor is a 2.5 .020 over with wiseco pistons. Brand new 2006 cast aluminum head with 3 angle valve job. Ported exhuast mani with a mitsu 16G turbo. Front mount intercooler approx 3ft by 8 inches by 2.5 inches. Stock ingition system, stock tb and slight port on intake mani. going to use a 2.5 inch inner diameter cutout on the downpipe about 1.5 feet downstream. Building cold air intake since battery is now in trunk.

Vigo
04-19-2007, 01:00 AM
honestly, i would not bother ever revving past 5500 until you have major port work. if your powerband 'seems' to stay 'strong' until then, and not fall off, it probly means you are being 'fooled' by retarded cam timing. ok enough 's

mcsvt
04-19-2007, 09:44 AM
^Agreed

At this point your head is holding you back more then your cam.

overlordsshadow
04-19-2007, 12:27 PM
mmmmm Knew I should have gotten +1 valves and some porting.

Orangetona
04-22-2007, 06:57 PM
Its a good thing you have the ported exhaust manifold though. Thatll definately help.