Whats a good spark plug?

[jre97]

Whats a good spark plug brand and part number for an 88 daytona that I plan to be running about 20 psi with alky soon? I know to stay away from platinums, splitfires are a waste of money, etc... I just need to know how much colder of a plug if any to run and what any one has had the best luck with.

[turbovanman²]

Lots of ideas, tried them all.
Some swear by the Champions, same number as stock but 9 instead of 12, colder. I have used them, its a plug.
I have used Autolites, also heat matched to the 9 Champion, lasted longer and again, it works.
For a copper plug, the Bosch is the best, its got a larger center electrode and lasts longer, again, matching to the 9 Champion.
I switched to the NGK BR9ES plugs-recessed tip and couldn't be happier, they reduce detonation and there a wicked plug. I went with the Iridium version as I have a high output coil and reg plugs don't last very long. I love these Iridiums, aprox 3000 Km's and no wear. The other plugs were lasting roughly 5000 km's.

[5sp. mini]

champion rn12y or high boost rn9y. alway worked for me.AL

[jre97]

I think it has rn9y's in it now. Car likes to cut out when it's cold unless you let it set and get good and up to operating temps which takes a while since it has a 160 thermostat in it.

[turbovanman²]

I think it has rn9y's in it now. Car likes to cut out when it's cold unless you let it set and get good and up to operating temps which takes a while since it has a 160 thermostat in it.

If its cutting out, its not your plugs.

BTW, take out the 160 thermostat, its running way to rich, your going to waste fuel and make less power not to mention wash down your walls and kill your rings.

[GLHSKEN]

If its cutting out, its not your plugs.

BTW, take out the 160 thermostat, its running way to rich, your going to waste fuel and make less power not to mention wash down your walls and kill your rings.


+1^^^ Also... look at Rn3's... Same heat range as Rn9YC's without the extended tip... no need for it (more tip to heat soak and cause detonation). I run RN9YC's or RN3's in all my cars..

[jre97]

Let me correct my self its cutting out about 4000 rpm just before I shift in normal driving when the car is cold. Wouldn't it be black smoking or smell really rich to be bad enough to wash down a cylinder?

[GLHSKEN]

Let me correct my self its cutting out about 4000 rpm just before I shift in normal driving when the car is cold. Wouldn't it be black smoking or smell really rich to be bad enough to wash down a cylinder?

Yes it should... you should check the timing belt. If you are cutting out above 4k rpm.. might have skipped a tooth..

[jre97]

Runs fine after it warms up. I just always attributed it to being "cold natured" or in need of a tune up.

[5sp. mini]

1+ on timing mine startes to pull at 3500.Al

[turbovanman²]

Let me correct my self its cutting out about 4000 rpm just before I shift in normal driving when the car is cold. Wouldn't it be black smoking or smell really rich to be bad enough to wash down a cylinder?


It won't plume black smoke as its not running THAT rich but the computer will never go into closed loop so fuel economy will be the shits. Studies have proven that for a street car, 195 will give the best engine wear but 180 is the coldest you should ever run. The wear increases expenashilly!! the colder it runs, so basically, it will wear out say 1000 times faster. Oh, your oil will get dirty very fast.

[jre97]

I'll look into putting a 180 in it this weekend. That might explain why I can never get any better than 22mpg out of it and I could use the heater working a little better. I'm pretty sure the 160 was put in to help keep temps down when tonyz2897 had the car and was running 28psi.

[jre97]

I was wrong it has ngk's with the recessed electrode.

[R/T]

I have the same set of NGK BR9ES's in my daily driver TII for a year or so.

THEY ROCK!!! :thumb:

A BR9ES is probably colder than nessary, a BR7ES or BR6ES is about the same as a Champion 9.

With NGK: 9 = coldest 3 = hottest.

Throttle response and torque seemed to pick up with the NGK's.... :clap2:

[Tony Hanna]

I was wrong it has ngk's with the recessed electrode.

Yeah, I put the recessed NGK's in it along with the 160 stat in an attempt to take every precaution against detonation when I was running a bunch of boost in hot weather. With you running close to stock boost, a 180 or 195 thermostat should be fine. Based on the 5000 km lifespan Simon mentioned for the non-Iridium plugs, I'd say it's due a new set.

[turbo xtc]

i used champs 9 and i have found out that my engine pinged a little more at higher boost so i changed to champ 11's and it went away but i only boost about 12-14 psi

[turbovanman²]

i used champs 9 and i have found out that my engine pinged a little more at higher boost so i changed to champ 11's and it went away but i only boost about 12-14 psi

That doesn't make sense, 11 is a hotter, plug???

[WVRampage]

I use the NGKs cant remember the part number.

[phantom rt]

The 180-195 Stat Do I Ask For It In Any Store Or Where Do I Get It Or Any Body Has Some Pics So I Can Recognice It...i Had A Stat In My Lebaron With 2 Little Holes In It Of How Much Temp Is That...AND OTHER DOUBT

ABOUT THE PLUGS HOW MUCH GAP DO I MUST SET THEM I USE 16 SOME TIMES 18 PSIS

[GLHSKEN]

The temp is based on the t-stat spring pressure. Gap your plugs down to 28-30.

[GLHNSLHT2]

I like the AR51 Autolites I've been running for a couple years now. They have a ground back electrode. They're the same heat range as an RN6YC. Have had no issues with them at all.

[jre97]

The 180-195 Stat Do I Ask For It In Any Store Or Where Do I Get It Or Any Body Has Some Pics So I Can Recognice It...i Had A Stat In My Lebaron With 2 Little Holes In It Of How Much Temp Is That...AND OTHER DOUBT

ABOUT THE PLUGS HOW MUCH GAP DO I MUST SET THEM I USE 16 SOME TIMES 18 PSIS
Yeah just ask for it at the parts store. The temp should be stamped on the bottom of the t-stat in the little dime sized brass piece.

[Marcus86GLHS]

i've been using NGK GR4's (V-Power Series) for a couple years now, its the one Forward Motion recommended for higher boosted 2.2L and the one NGK also recommends. i set the gap at .028".

anyone else using these?

[turbovanman²]

I like the AR51 Autolites I've been running for a couple years now. They have a ground back electrode. They're the same heat range as an RN6YC. Have had no issues with them at all.

Interesting, I will have to have a look at some of those.




i've been using NGK GR4's (V-Power Series) for a couple years now, its the one Forward Motion recommended for higher boosted 2.2L and the one NGK also recommends. i set the gap at .028".

anyone else using these?

Those are the base model for the Iridiums, good plug also.

[93sundance]

"VANHELLEN"-89 Turbo Caravan, stock interior, a/c, cruise, intercooler, auto, PB mounts.
Best run 13.7@96mph-too many mods too list, and too much time, lol!


Woa....I must have missed some of your posts. When did you get in the 13s, Simon? Congrats man. Im no longer nipping at your heels, hehe. Slicks are coming soon though :evil:

[93sundance]

just found the thread. Congrats man! U should make some videos next time.

[phantom rt]

al right ill see the stat temp...i have rn9yc champs ill lower the gap i right now they are at 33 ill set them at 28 to see what happens

[Turbo_Rampage]

I just installed a set of NGK BR9ES plugs in my Rampage today, and they seem to be working good. The only thing i have noticed so far is it POPS alot more out the exhaust at idle when its in open loop, but once its at operating temp it idles perfect! I was running NGK GR4's in it before, but they seemed to be a little to hot of a plug for it (always white) I will put a few hundred Km's on these BR9ES plugs and see if they help any..

Later, Randy

[mcsvt]

I also run the BR9ES plugs. Extremely smooth under power and cruising. I have a bit of a miss at idle though. Not sure if it's the cheap wires though, about time for some magnecor's.

[turbovanman²]

TM's pop at idle, its just the way it is, :eyebrows:

[mcsvt]

Hmmm ok, then I will continue enjoying my pop :D

[Tony Hanna]

TM's pop at idle, its just the way it is, :eyebrows:

Anybody ever figure out exactly what causes this?
I've noticed a really smooth idle as long as the computer is in open loop but as soon as it switches to closed loop, it starts the usual crap.
It's gotta be something in the stock cal.

[JDAWG]

i thought that was the baro solenoid taking a reading

[turbovanman²]

Anybody ever figure out exactly what causes this?
I've noticed a really smooth idle as long as the computer is in open loop but as soon as it switches to closed loop, it starts the usual crap.
It's gotta be something in the stock cal.


My TU cal did it a tiny bit but Paul turns the idle up a few 100 rpms also. Rob's cal does it more so but the idle is around 800, Paul's is 1000-1100 which I prefer.

[Lee'sdaytona]

Ok quick ?....I just picked up 4 champion Platinum plugs from the parts store with the number 3405 on the ceramic. I think maybe they gave me the wrong plug? tHese are going in a 2.5 turbo, but I think maybe they gave me 2.5 TBI? Are these a good plug to use? Otherwise I'll take them back and look for NGK plugs
-Lee

[turbovanman²]

Ok quick ?....I just picked up 4 champion Platinum plugs from the parts store with the number 3405 on the ceramic. I think maybe they gave me the wrong plug? tHese are going in a 2.5 turbo, but I think maybe they gave me 2.5 TBI? Are these a good plug to use? Otherwise I'll take them back and look for NGK plugs
-Lee

They gave you the TBI plugs, take them back and get the regular plugs or some Iridiums.

[ssheen]

If you cryo your plugs, they will last forever. They seem to not round out and deposits have a harder time sticking to them. I saw some that were used for 10 years in a power boat. The fellow just swapped them out. They looked pretty good for being that old, to me. :D

[glhs875]

Anybody ever figure out exactly what causes this?
I've noticed a really smooth idle as long as the computer is in open loop but as soon as it switches to closed loop, it starts the usual crap.
It's gotta be something in the stock cal.

It happens when the engine is in closed loop and when the air/ fuel ratio is toggling from rich to lean. When at the lean side of the toggle (too lean in my opinion) is when the popping sound happens.

[Tony Hanna]

I've noticed that too. I wondered if the pop was caused by being lean or the extra o2 from the misfiring cylinder was causing the a/f gauge to show lean. If you do anything to throw it into open loop, the pop goes away.
If I ever get a cal done, I'm going to see if I can have it to ignore o2 at idle, and idle just a little bit rich. Not bad enough to black the plugs or load up, just rich enough to smooth the idle out a bit.

[boost geek]

I like a lumpy idle.

[boost geek]

I like the AR51 Autolites I've been running for a couple years now. They have a ground back electrode. They're the same heat range as an RN6YC. Have had no issues with them at all.
I just bought a set. They dont look like they wouldn't last long, you been running the same set for 2 years? I haven't installed mine yet, I'll wait till I upgrade my injectors. I like Autolites, been running 64s for years now.

[turbovanman²]

I just bought a set. They dont look like they wouldn't last long, you been running the same set for 2 years? I haven't installed mine yet, I'll wait till I upgrade my injectors. I like Autolites, been running 64s for years now.

Thats an old racer trick, allows the flame to really travel but it tax's the cap, rotor, coil and wires and doesn't last very long.

[JDAWG]

so, my headgasket blew and I'm gonna put new plugs in it while doing the headgasket change. Question, rn9yc or rc9yc? I have both on the shelf. Seems like on the rn the electrode is like 2mm longer and uses the bigger socket, also the white ceramic part is like 1/4 longer.

[Lee'sdaytona]

You know, I had trouble buying the NGK BR9ES plugs the other day, since it didn't show up in their computer as being the right plug for the car. The guy insisted they were for marine and off road application...He only had 2 to sell anyway. He couldn't understand the concept of wanting a REALLY cold plug in comparison to other plugs. Went to pep boys, they had all 4 no questions asked
-Lee

[jckrieger]

Ok, my recent experiences have brought me back to this page. I have a heavily modified 2.5L 8V motor in my CSX and am running 25-35psi with alcohol/water injection (80+lb/hr). I've had a problem breaking the ceramics off the spark plugs, or cracking the ceramic and having it drop down and surround the gap in the plug. I've noticed the Champion RN9YC plugs break MUCH easier than the Autolite 63's. I'm going to try running the BR9ES NGK plugs and see how they hold up. I figure the turbo and cylinders have already eaten enough ceramic, what's the worst that could happen?

[BadAssPerformance]

Thanks for the RND Clark :thumb:

BTW, at those boost pressures you might want to trey the recessed ones that Reeves likes?

[jckrieger]

Thanks for the RND Clark :thumb:

BTW, at those boost pressures you might want to trey the recessed ones that Reeves likes?

I plan on doing just that when I stop by the auto parts store tomorrow. I don't want to do any more damage to the car if I don't have to. Friday is the first day this car is going to the track since it was stock so I want it to hold together for at least a few runs. Right now the car is "stupid to drive" at WOT. I was in shock when the grainger valve stuck and I hit 35psi of boost while the tires were spinning in 3rd. I'm going to be up against a 525hp 2006ish GTO, so we'll see how it goes.

[BadAssPerformance]

Sounds like a healthy LS1... Got slicks? Good luck! I need to update the SDAC-Chicago dragtimes page :thumb:

[boost geek]

I just gapped my AR51's down to .22 thou, runs and revs great.:thumb:

[jckrieger]

Sounds like a healthy LS1... Got slicks? Good luck! I need to update the SDAC-Chicago dragtimes page :thumb:

It's my friend at work's GTO. I think it was rated at 400hp stock since it's the 6.0L and he just installed a supercharger kit that is supposed to give another 125hp. He took me for a ride to taco hell and in 3rd gear the car still had good torque. Last time he went to the track the car was stock and in the 14's due to the massive wheelhop. I'm thinking he'll be in the 13's with crappy launches since he's still running crappy street tires.

[BadAssPerformance]

Wow, a 500hp 13 second car? Thats not right. There have been a couple 11 second GTO's at Grove with mild mods.

[10G OMNI]

Just wanted to add that adding a msd 6 or something like that really helped,i mean really geat addition,some times spark plugs are better when they are electonicly boosted.

[BadAssPerformance]

I've run a 6AL for years and it does seem to help smooth out the higher rpm and boost levels :thumb:

[turbovanman²]

Ok, my recent experiences have brought me back to this page. I have a heavily modified 2.5L 8V motor in my CSX and am running 25-35psi with alcohol/water injection (80+lb/hr). I've had a problem breaking the ceramics off the spark plugs, or cracking the ceramic and having it drop down and surround the gap in the plug. I've noticed the Champion RN9YC plugs break MUCH easier than the Autolite 63's. I'm going to try running the BR9ES NGK plugs and see how they hold up. I figure the turbo and cylinders have already eaten enough ceramic, what's the worst that could happen?

I think the BR9ES's will be your hot ticket.


Just wanted to add that adding a msd 6 or something like that really helped,i mean really geat addition,some times spark plugs are better when they are electonicly boosted.


AGreed, I love my Aurora box, :amen:

[boost geek]

Hey Simon, how much are those Aurora boxes? I took the cap off my car today and would break up at high rpm, think my coil is getting tired...

[chilort]

I've always been a plugs are plugs are plugs kind of person. I've used Champion plugs for years. The plugs in my car were only a few thousand miles old.

I was running RN12YC plugs and the more I bumped up the boost, the flatter it felt at the top end. I even narrowed the gap from 0.35 to 0.30. I thought I just needed a new cal (I was still running a stock cal but 804's). I got my cal ('86 Stage 3 GLHS cal from FWD Perf.) and an AFPR. Still had the same flat feeling at the top though everything else felt great.

I started reading this thread, thinking to myself, what a bunch of B.S. The more I read, the more I started to think that maybe my plugs really are too warm. Today I dropped in a set of NGK BR9ES plugs and the problem appears to be solved.

Thanks for the great info. :hail::hail::hail::hail::hail::hail:

[johnl]

Yep, the projected tip is for when you want flame propagation a bit earlier but at the price of an exposed piece of porcelain. Jack - if the porcelain is breaking, then you've got detonation. Those plugs are the canary in your coal mine. Since you have H20 injection, it is undoubtedly helping, but it is also masking an underlying problem.

[GLHSKEN]

RN3's are champion's non projected eq to RN9YC's

[CSXT802]

NGK-BR9ES = Champion-RN2C

[WVRampage]

RN12YCs work great,I have seen running them close to a year now and are very good,I will try the RN9YCs next.