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View Full Version : Boost controllers and cutout raisers.



Tony Hanna
04-10-2007, 09:07 PM
I'm considering building some g-valve based boost controllers and cutout raisers to sell, and I thought I'd post to see how much of a demand there would be for them. I'm going to try to keep the prices low. The cutout raisers will run about $30 + shipping, and the boost controllers will probably be a few dollars less.

I know most of us will buy the parts to build our own when it comes to things like this, but for anyone that doesn't feel like dealing with sourcing the parts and would rather have a pre-assembled, ready to run boost controller or cutout raiser, these are for you.

I need to order another g-valve so I can prototype the boost controller. I can either build them like the conventional design with the outlet on the top, or with a plugged cap and the outlet installed in the side for easy adjustment without having to remove a line.
Here's a pic of the prototype cutout raiser. I should have one up of the boost controller in a few days.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Tony

Edit: Looking to make 10 total units (boost controller or cutout raiser) for this run. I'm planning just the 1 run for now.
When/if I get 10 people interested, I'll order the parts and assemble the units. Once they're together and ready to ship, I'll post my e-mail adderess for paypal and mailing adderess for money orders.
1. vxvxAndrewxvxv - cutout raiser
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vxvxAndrewxvxv
04-11-2007, 01:09 AM
the cutout riser is the one you put in on the MAP line correct?
count me in for one.

Tony Hanna
04-11-2007, 05:37 AM
the cutout riser is the one you put in on the MAP line correct?
count me in for one.

Sure is. The major difference between this one and similar units is that it's preassembled and all metal. I'm even considering building the restrictor orfice right into the inlet barb. If I don't, a seperate restrictor will ship with each unit. Installation will simply be a matter of cutting the vacuum line to the map/baro, connecting the cutout raiser, and dialing it in.:thumb:

2.216VTurbo
04-11-2007, 11:33 AM
I have enough Graingers but I was considering making a staged controller with two Graingers and a 12V solenoid. I know Dawes used to make them but they came in a relativley large aluminum box. If you could come up with a decent way to mount the Grainger's side by side and the solenoid on there and keep it to the size of about a package of cigarettes...:eyebrows: I'd throw $125. for something like that:) I've got too much going on to make it myself but it would be nice to launch at 10PSI then switch to ??? I'm running this car at the Mopar shoot out May 26, still gotta put the new rods in and OS valves in the head, tick tock tick tock...

vxvxAndrewxvxv
04-11-2007, 11:58 AM
I have enough Graingers but I was considering making a staged controller with two Graingers and a 12V solenoid. I know Dawes used to make them but they came in a relativley large aluminum box. If you could come up with a decent way to mount the Grainger's side by side and the solenoid on there and keep it to the size of about a package of cigarettes...:eyebrows: I'd throw $125. for something like that:) I've got too much going on to make it myself but it would be nice to launch at 10PSI then switch to ??? I'm running this car at the Mopar shoot out May 26, still gotta put the new rods in and OS valves in the head, tick tock tick tock...

Strangely enough, i'm in the process of making one of these...

Tony Hanna
04-11-2007, 03:17 PM
I have enough Graingers but I was considering making a staged controller with two Graingers and a 12V solenoid. I know Dawes used to make them but they came in a relativley large aluminum box. If you could come up with a decent way to mount the Grainger's side by side and the solenoid on there and keep it to the size of about a package of cigarettes...:eyebrows: I'd throw $125. for something like that:) I've got too much going on to make it myself but it would be nice to launch at 10PSI then switch to ??? I'm running this car at the Mopar shoot out May 26, still gotta put the new rods in and OS valves in the head, tick tock tick tock...

Alan,
I could probably throw something together for you, but I just got called back out to work, so between that and this group buy, I'm going to have my hands full for awhile.
If you're not in a big hurry for it, shoot me a PM, and we can go over the details.
I've got a basic idea of the design in my head, I just need to know if it's what you had in mind.:)
Thanks,
Tony

jre97
04-17-2007, 02:43 AM
I'll buy a boost controller if you deliver it.:eyebrows:

Tony Hanna
04-17-2007, 05:13 AM
I'll buy a boost controller if you deliver it.:eyebrows:
Sure thing man.:) I need to run that comp housing and elbow up there too. It's ready to weld.
Job is scheduled to finish up next Monday, and I should get my first paycheck today. Once it's in the bank, I'm going to order the parts to build the prototype boost controller and get some pictures of it up for everybody.:nod:

1. vxvxAndrewxvxv - cutout raiser
2. jre97 - boost controller
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Dave
05-11-2007, 04:53 PM
Count me in for a cut out raiser. How soon could I get one? I need one practically by Monday.

Let me know.
-Bryan

Tony Hanna
05-11-2007, 06:59 PM
Count me in for a cut out raiser. How soon could I get one? I need one practically by Monday.

Let me know.
-Bryan

That's just it Bryan, the way I understand the rules for a group buy, I have to have x number of people interested (in this case 10) before I can start selling. That being the case, I was going to wait until there were at least 6 or 7 before ordering the parts. If I had it my way, I'd build a few and keep them on-hand to sell on an as-needed basis, but I imagine I'd have to talk to Frank and see what's involved in gaining vendor status before doing something like that.

To everyone that's shown interest: Would you guys rather me close the buy do to lack of interest and just post the part numbers so you can build them yourselves, or do you want to ride this out and see if we get 10 people?

vxvxAndrewxvxv
05-13-2007, 04:57 PM
Tony, you the man. If you want to post part numbers, I could just make my own. Heck, if you could write up a thingy for the Knowledge center, it'de be dynamite.

Tony Hanna
05-13-2007, 05:36 PM
Tony, you the man. If you want to post part numbers, I could just make my own. Heck, if you could write up a thingy for the Knowledge center, it'de be dynamite.

I'm not at home right now, but should be this evening. I'll see if I can find the recepit for the parts so I can post the numbers. The valve is the only thing you might have to order. Everything else will be available from a local hardware store. I got the parts for the prototype from Lowes but was going to order everything from Mcmaster Carr for the buy. Some of the fittings are only available from them in larger quantities. Not very cost effective unless you plan to build 10+ of them. ;)

BadAssPerformance
05-13-2007, 08:01 PM
...To everyone that's shown interest: Would you guys rather me close the buy do to lack of interest and just post the part numbers so you can build them yourselves, or do you want to ride this out and see if we get 10 people?

I was going to write up a tech article for the TM.com KC the next time I made a batch, but if you wanted to, that would be cool too! :thumb:

vxvxAndrewxvxv
05-14-2007, 03:24 PM
I once made a necklace out of a grainger valve and some rubber vacuume hose, suppose I could make one valve for me and 9 necklaces.

Tony Hanna
05-14-2007, 04:08 PM
I once made a necklace out of a grainger valve and some rubber vacuume hose, suppose I could make one valve for me and 9 necklaces.

It's all good man, the valves you can get 1 at a time from Mcmaster Carr.
www.mcmaster.com part# 48935k25 $7.70
It's the fittings that they sell in bulk. part# 5346k12 $9.25 for 10. You only need 2.
The "T" is part# 50785k72 $2.75 each.
The fittings can be purchased individually at Lowes, as well as the "T". I used to have the part numbers for the ones I got from Lowes, but I can't seem to find them now. Any 1/4" npt female "T" and 1/4" npt male hose barbs should work though. Just make sure the barb is the right size for your map vacuum line.

In addition to the valve, barbs, and "T", you need something to use as a restrictor orfice. The ones I was planning to build would have had the orfice made into the inlet barb to make it a 1-piece unit. That isn't necessary though. you can simply use a .040-.050 orfice of any kind (mig welder contact tips work great) spliced into map line ahead of your cutout raiser.
Functionally this cutout raiser is exactly the same as the ones Gus built, so the instructions on his page regarding how to install and adjust the unit apply.
http://www.gusmahon.org/html/cutout.htm

HTH,
Tony