Internal component weights-opinions needed on saving weight.

[turbovanman²]

I measured my wrist pins today, they weigh 125 grams, I can get some Casmidium ones that weigh 104 grams for cheap. Worth it?

I measured the rod bearings for shitts and giggles, 40 grams, :wow1:

I haven't got the pistons yet to see if there heavier than stock.

[Lugert]

Without doing any homework on the Casmidium pins, I would say ANY less weight in the rotating assembly is a GOOD thing.

2.2 or 2.5?

[turbovanman²]

Without doing any homework on the Casmidium pins, I would say ANY less weight in the rotating assembly is a GOOD thing.

2.2 or 2.5?

2.5 TIII baby, :thumb:

I weighed a bunch of stuff, will post that tomorrow. Got a cheap digital scale from Home Depot, :nod:

[Frank]

Casmidium

Sounds made up... I am pretty sure that doesn't exist, unless you spelled it wrong

[Anonymous_User]

21 grams off the wrist pins - I would do it.

Any weight savings on the small end of the rod - piston/pin - takes a huge amount of stress off of everything else.

[Clay]

Sounds made up... I am pretty sure that doesn't exist, unless you spelled it wrong

Simon - Rev. Jesse Jackson of the TM world! ;)

[Frank]

HAHAHA.


The real savings is reducing the crank's mass by getting it knife edged, etc. Reducing pin weight is most benificial when you are maxing the rods. Reducing the pin/piston weight keeps the rods from stretching and twisting at high rev's, etc. 20 grams is not alot in terms of power. Loose 8lbs of weight of the motor OR loose 200lbs off the car.... those are VERY rough power equivelents, but that should put it in some perspective.


Frank

[GLHS0658]

Frank, Although you are limited on how much weight you can remove from piston and rods/pins, It is more beneficial to remove as much as possible from the recipricating assembly than the rotating assembly. People see gains from removing weight from the counterweights but more would be had from removing the same weight from the rod/piston assembly (if that was possible)

I read a back to back dyno run on a SBC where all they swapped was aluminum rods. Result was a 25 HP increase.
You wouldn't get that much power from taking the same weight off the crankshaft which would be 4-5 lbs.

Yes Simon taking a 1/4 pound off the recipricating assy is a good thing.

Mike

[turbovanman²]

I realize taking off more weight, IE knife edging the crank is worth it but that costs alot of money. Getting lighter rods, lighter pistons, lighter wrist pins all adds up. 20 grams is half a bearing shell, :eyebrows:

[cordes]

I realize taking off more weight, IE knife edging the crank is worth it but that costs alot of money. Getting lighter rods, lighter pistons, lighter wrist pins all adds up. 20 grams is half a bearing shell, :eyebrows:


Just suck it up and poineer a viable modern bearingless motor already. ;)


Seriously though is you can shave weight and it is "cheap" to do, then do it. I would research your mystery metal first to make sure that it is not playdough.

[Mario]

Casidium I believe is what you meant, right?

It's too bad they're more easily found for .927 Those are really cheap. Plus you get a set of eight. :lol:

Now if only I could find some .901's

Good thinking Simon. Oh and I bet you want to smack me right now.

[Whorse]

Funny was when Simon tried to tell me he lost 60 grams off his rods and I pointed out the stock T2 rod still had the bearings :p

[Mario]

I just weighed my .901's and they're 115.3

[turbovanman²]

Just suck it up and poineer a viable modern bearingless motor already. ;)


Seriously though is you can shave weight and it is "cheap" to do, then do it. I would research your mystery metal first to make sure that it is not playdough.

Shhhhhhhhhhh, I am close to production, ;)

There out of Nascar engines rated at over 800 hp, as good as titanium.


Casidium I believe is what you meant, right?

It's too bad they're more easily found for .927 Those are really cheap. Plus you get a set of eight. :lol:

Now if only I could find some .901's

Good thinking Simon. Oh and I bet you want to smack me right now.

No, I need .866 pins, :nod:

And like Frank spells correctly everytime, :D


Funny was when Simon tried to tell me he lost 60 grams off his rods and I pointed out the stock T2 rod still had the bearings :p


Yeah, whoops, hahahaha.

I just weighed my .901's and they're 115.3

Ok my list

My TII rods that I removed the parting line and had them balanced-692 grams
Stock TII rods, untouched-710 grams
Eagle EDZ SRT rods-573 grams :wow1:

Stock std Mahle 2.5 8 valve piston-366 grams
Sealed Power .020 2.5 cast piston-362 grams
Wisco .040 forged 2.5 slug-368 grams
My 2.5 JE's with rings and a small hole-404 grams
TIII std Mahle piston-418 grams

Stock Dodge pin-125 grams
Wiseco wrist pin-122 grams

Std rod bearings-43 grams


I can't find my JE wrist pin, there tapered, to weigh, put it down and can't find it, :(

[Mario]

How are you running .866's? Those are on there too for cheap. :D

[turbovanman²]

How are you running .866's? Those are on there too for cheap. :D


Bought some Eagle SRT rods off Ebay for mega cheap of course. I was having pistons made so this worked out perfectly, having the pistons made for 866 pins.

If my buddy didn't own a machine shop, I wouldn't do it, :thumb:


Yes, I know the 866 ones are cheap as there a weird fit so they can't sell them, :nod:

[Mario]

Well they're selling the .927's cheap too. I've searched the internet for .901's but I can't seem to find any..... you have any sources?

[turbovanman²]

Well they're selling the .927's cheap too. I've searched the internet for .901's but I can't seem to find any..... you have any sources?


Ebay, .901 seems to be a Dodge size only. My JE's were .927 so I could have used those but I wish I could find my JE wrist pin, arggggggggg.

[turbovanman²]

Found some .927's on Ebay, at the correct length of 2.5" but DAMN, $400, :wow1:

My ones aren't so cheap anymore, there too short also, so for $88, not bothering.