Devil's Own Progressive= Awesome

[whistlin']

Got my progressive kit from Devil's Own hooked up today, couldn't be happier.
T-1 Spirit w/Garrett, non intercooled. 16 degrees base timing and 15 psi of boost without a trace of detonation on 91 octane unleaded.
Only problem I had was charge air hose kept blowing off pipe for BOV, after welding a lip on it no problems.:D
I'm running the 10 nozzle. Next step will be 89 octane gas and a little more boost. If it aint broke, fix it till it is.:eyebrows:

[flatlander757]

I'm really interested in this... make sure you keep us updated!:eyebrows:

Are you running water, meth, alcohol...??

[Spraynlog]

I ran alcohol/water injection on my draw through T1 for several years.
It got into the high 14's at the drags without an intercooler. The times it ran are in my sig line.

I've heard good things about the kit you are using. You can also make your own quite easily using a windshield washer pump/tank combo, a misting nozzle, and a hobbs pressure switch. Total cost will run $50 -$60.

I would stay away from methanol and use denatured alcohol.
Why? Because methanol is hazardous to handle and you don't want to get it on you or breathe the fumes. Denatured is much less of a health hazard and does the same thing. I used a 50/50 mix of denatured with distilled water.

[Will Martin]

Or just use some cheap windshield wiper fluid.

[overlordsshadow]

How much was the kit? I am going to put in a kit this summer for an end of season run. This will be to compare times and such. I will either buy a kit or build on myself. Can someone who has built a kit list the parts and where I can get them (IE the misters and pump) or point me to a link where all this has been said. Thanks all

[Whorse]

Buy the devilsown kit. It's built properly to handle alcohol. Ask Simon how his makeshift kit worked, and how his devilsown kit works.

[1FastCSX289]

My devilsown has been sitting on my shelf for about 4 months now awaiting my CSX to be ready. I should be putting it in within weeks. Hopefully it will take me to 25-28 PSI on pump gas! Can wait.

To answer a previous question.......I think the kit was around 250-300. Tell the owner youre a TD guy. ;)

[whistlin']

I'm really interested in this... make sure you keep us updated!:eyebrows:

Are you running water, meth, alcohol...??

Still working great! I'm just using the windshield washer mix, 50/50 mix I think. I could probably use straight water, fuel quantity wasn't my problem at this boost level. I'm running the 89 octane now and saving 15 cents a gallon over the 91. The 91 octane still presented detonation problems without an intercooler, had to run 10 degrees on the base timing.
So now I'm saving money on the gas itself and getting better mileage since I can run more timing.
This car is my daily work beater. It really seems like a waste to run expensive fuel when most my driving is done on the vacuum side of the gauge. This kit allows the best of both worlds.
I know a person can make their own kit and the $300 was a big investment. I wanted something I could really rely on and I also wanted the progressive setup. I have it set to start at 7 psi and max at 20. I'm only running 15 psi but it has spiked to 16-17 psi, still rich on the dawes and no detonation.
My stock cal is running on the 2 bar map. I got the Devil'sOwn 3 bar setup and am running a seperate map for it. This car is a progressive project so I wanted to build some room to move forward into it.
I highly recommend this kit!:thumb:

[flatlander757]

So you've got a stock cal, graingered to 15psi and the alky injection... sweet:thumb:

I think getting all the crap to install a FMIC on my car would cost as much or close to as much as a DevilsOwn kit, but the alky inj. kit seems much easier to install... I work on cars all day, I'm lazy when it comes to my own:p

Where are you injecting the stuff at? I'm guessing right before the TB?

Are you planning on using the meth to sustain your higher boost levels or are you going to get bigger injectors and continue using it for the sole purpose of cooling? If you are doing it just to cool the charge, wouldn't you have to take out a little bit of fuel so it doesn't go richer than it should?

[devlish]

pics of where your nozzle is? i'm considering buying a devilsown kit for my GLH. it's got a lot of bolt-on stuff already, and i would like to run 18-21psi, and i feel the alky inj would help keep it safe... even though it's intercooled already. that, and i like spending money on things i don't really need, but think are cool to have anyways!

[whistlin']

So you've got a stock cal, graingered to 15psi and the alky injection... sweet:thumb:

I think getting all the crap to install a FMIC on my car would cost as much or close to as much as a DevilsOwn kit, but the alky inj. kit seems much easier to install... I work on cars all day, I'm lazy when it comes to my own:p

Where are you injecting the stuff at? I'm guessing right before the TB?

Are you planning on using the meth to sustain your higher boost levels or are you going to get bigger injectors and continue using it for the sole purpose of cooling? If you are doing it just to cool the charge, wouldn't you have to take out a little bit of fuel so it doesn't go richer than it should?

I will probably intercool eventually for a little more protection, but for now the water/meth is doing the job.
I've got the nozzle right before the throttle body. I'll get some pics tomorrow when I get home from work.
I plan on adding more fuel in the future to support more boost. I'm still sitting on the fence on how though, maybe "old school", maybe custom cal, maybe straight meth through this system but doubt it.
I don't need to pull any fuel, that's why I got the progressive kit so I can dial things in from inside the car. If it's too rich I can change my start point or raise the max point.
Stock cal graingered to 15 psi with adjustable zener. Today I held second gear long and hard and the gauge stayed at 17psi. Dawes showed green but blinked the yellow light a couple of times, no detonation on 89 octane. I like to think of it as "Octane on demand".
I need to add more fuel before adding any more boost.:nod:

[flatlander757]

I will probably intercool eventually for a little more protection, but for now the water/meth is doing the job.
I've got the nozzle right before the throttle body. I'll get some pics tomorrow when I get home from work.
I plan on adding more fuel in the future to support more boost. I'm still sitting on the fence on how though, maybe "old school", maybe custom cal, maybe straight meth through this system but doubt it.
I don't need to pull any fuel, that's why I got the progressive kit so I can dial things in from inside the car. If it's too rich I can change my start point or raise the max point.
Stock cal graingered to 15 psi with adjustable zener. Today I held second gear long and hard and the gauge stayed at 17psi. Dawes showed green but blinked the yellow light a couple of times, no detonation on 89 octane. I like to think of it as "Octane on demand".
I need to add more fuel before adding any more boost.:nod:

Awesome, thanks! Looking forward to pics:nod:

[whistlin']

Nozzle

http://pic17.picturetrail.com/VOL846/881681/8484178/246119970.jpg
Pump

http://pic17.picturetrail.com/VOL846/881681/8484178/246119906.jpg
2bar and 3bar maps

http://pic17.picturetrail.com/VOL846/881681/8484178/246119926.jpg
http://pic17.picturetrail.com/VOL846/881681/8484178/246119957.jpg

[boost geek]

I finally got mine hooked up last night too. Hit 15 psi with 87 octane. The progressive kit is cool, can see when it activates, this stuff works!:thumb:

I'm running dual jets on the intake from another vendor.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k302/boostgeek/100_1035.jpg

[overlordsshadow]

Boost Geek, did you get your vac block from Princess Auto for like $6?

[boost geek]

Yes, thats a Princess Auto piece. I drilled and tapped the left side of it out, it came with a threaded screw in the end, but it will NEVER turn out. Just drilled the screw out and retapped it.:thumb:

[overlordsshadow]

your right about the screw never ever coming out. Thinking about it now though mabye an impact flat end would work?! Almost want to test it now. Definatly getting one of these kits for the season ending races.

[boost geek]

$300 U.S. is pricy, but with the price of fuel, and C-16 at $21 a gallon, it will pay itself off real quick.:D

[overlordsshadow]

That was my thought exactly. Save 5-10 cents/liter by using 87 octane and it will pay for itself in no time flat.

[Ondonti]

hmm I guess i need to buy one now!...but I will run 100% alky.
Im not sure if he ever finished his progressive unit that doesnt require a certain bar map sensor.

Actually I just looked and his voltage controller is available.

That way I can just tap into the 3.5 bar sensor on my zeitronix.

[whistlin']

That was my thought exactly. Save 5-10 cents/liter by using 87 octane and it will pay for itself in no time flat.

Figure in the timing advance you can run to improve mileage and throttle response, it's a win/win situation.

[devlish]

i agree, it's a way to get better gas mileage, but what are the costs of the denatured alchohol? about $10/gal? how long does that last when running 50/50 mix? i'm not trying to thwart the savings idea... just curious as to what is really being saved once you add it all up. cost of the unit plus cost of alky. (we won't count the water since i waste more by letting it run while brushing my teeth every day...)

[whistlin']

I just run washer fluid, about $1.50/gal. Straight meth or denatured alky will run more, but you're only using it while in the boost. High octane gas you are using all the time, even when running 18 inches of vacuum.:(

[boost geek]

That's what makes alky injection so cool, windshield wash is cheap, cheap, cheap!:thumb:

[devlish]

ok, i can get down with that. the washer fluid idea is cheap. good call.

[jckrieger]

Has anyone tried E85 with their alcohol injection? It's 85% ethanol and about $2.50 a gallon. I plan on switching over to this stuff in my tank when my denatured alcohol runs out... or switch over to straight methanol.

BTW, I've been running 25-27psi on my CSX with the Devil's Own kit and only had to pull a couple degrees of timing from stock.

[Mopar_Nutz]

Yes, thats a Princess Auto piece. I drilled and tapped the left side of it out, it came with a threaded screw in the end, but it will NEVER turn out. Just drilled the screw out and retapped it.:thumb:

your right about the screw never ever coming out. Thinking about it now though mabye an impact flat end would work?! Almost want to test it now.
Slightly off topic and about a week late but....

They actually do come out quite easily with one little trick. Throw it in the oven for 5-10 minutes. The screws are glued in and a few minutes in the oven softens it up so they screw right out. I've removed about 30 of them ;)

[overlordsshadow]

Sorry for resurecting but.................



I think my Alchy kit is here at the posty office! Any snags anyone had installing it please lend a hang. Was anything missing from the kit that you had to go out and get for the install (besides bolts or self tap screws)?

On a somewhat related but not totally topic, how do I advance my timing? Is it cam timing that I advance or crank timing or just distrib? The mark is currently at the 12 degree mark since I am still having probs with the car that hopefully the charge temp sensor will fix.

[Ondonti]

My kit is in the mail, too bad my car is sick so I cant use it yet.

108g/hr pump woot. :P

Im hoping I can get it to push at least 30-40 gallons/hr of meth.

[Tony Hanna]

So, what's the word on the Devilsown pump and pure methanol? I've seen on their site where they say Shurflow doesn't recomend more than 50%... Just wondering if anybody has any real-world experience with reliability.
Thanks

[overlordsshadow]

My install sheet says they are good for '100& Methanol'.

Install tommorow!

[Tony Hanna]

My install sheet says they are good for '100& Methanol'.

Install tommorow!

http://www.alcohol-injection.com/shurflo-150-psi-pump-p-15.html
Toward the bottom of the page:

"Shuflo recomends not running more than 50/50 mix of water/methanol with this pump"

I wonder which is right?

[overlordsshadow]

Not sure says multiple times on the sheet i just got today

[Tony Hanna]

I'm pretty curious about that. If it turns out that they are compatible with 100% methanol, I'd like to order one of their pumps for the next system I build. If not, I'll probably go with a fuel pump out of a flex fuel car.

[whistlin']

Sorry for resurecting but.................



I think my Alchy kit is here at the posty office! Any snags anyone had installing it please lend a hang. Was anything missing from the kit that you had to go out and get for the install (besides bolts or self tap screws)?

On a somewhat related but not totally topic, how do I advance my timing? Is it cam timing that I advance or crank timing or just distrib? The mark is currently at the 12 degree mark since I am still having probs with the car that hopefully the charge temp sensor will fix.
Even the bolts and screws were included. How far you want to go electrically may require some extra parts, but everything is there for the basic install.
The timing to advance would be distributor timing.


On the 100% methanol issue. I think I remember reading about it being about liability. The pump and system are compatible, but by them recommending a 50/50 mix they can't be blamed when you have a 100% methanol leak and ensuing fire:wow1:

[Tony Hanna]

On the 100% methanol issue. I think I remember reading about it being about liability. The pump and system are compatible, but by them recommending a 50/50 mix they can't be blamed when you have a 100% methanol leak and ensuing fire:wow1:

Makes sense.:thumb:
If that's all there is to it, then one of their pumps should do quite nicely for what I have in mind.:)

[10G OMNI]

No problems running 100% meth been using the devils kit for over a year.

[Tony Hanna]

Nice!

[overlordsshadow]

Going out to jy for the charge temp sens and an ais, then out to get some aluminum or stainless for cai then into garage to do back strut bar, alky inject, cts, and exhaust see you guys later:)!

[Clay]

the pump in the devils kit is rated for 100% alcohol.

[Ondonti]

http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/13/img1802bf1.jpg

[boost geek]

I have a new M3 nozzle if anyone wants it for running duals, or having a spare. I run external nozzles, wont be using it.

[overlordsshadow]

Which wire on my mopar map sensor 88 wiring harness is the one I want to hook my alcky kit to? Is it the green wire with the red stripe (middle pin)?

[DevilsOwn]

Thanks for you kind words about our kits.

[whistlin']

Still completely happy with this thing! I don't know of any intercooler that can protect a T1 with 16 degrees base timing on 89 octane and 20 psi with no extra fuel. Granted I turned things down until I have the fuel to support it, but no detonation at 20 psi = WOW!

[jckrieger]

It sure is a beauty substituting alcohol for gasoline at higher boost levels. I plan on adding a second nozzle by the end of the summer for some 30psi runs with good timing.

[Ondonti]

I just wish I could use mine :P
Need to stop breaking.

[jckrieger]

Breaking = bad when there is nothing left to upgrade.

[whistlin']

It sure is a beauty substituting alcohol for gasoline at higher boost levels. I plan on adding a second nozzle by the end of the summer for some 30psi runs with good timing.

I'm just using the washer mix. I've debated on going straight alky or more gas, plenty of things to consider.

[jckrieger]

I've been using straight ethanol, but it's expensive so I'll be going to E85 once the car gets back together.

[Dave]

I'm just using the washer mix. I've debated on going straight alky or more gas, plenty of things to consider.

Washer fluid = gay. Here's a real world situation. I ran winter washer fluid and could run only 19psi. My A/F sat at 12.7:1. With pure alcohol I'm at 11.5:1 on 23psi. Granted these tests were done on different days, but the time of day and conditions were similar.


I've been using straight ethanol, but it's expensive so I'll be going to E85 once the car gets back together.

I pay $2.90/gallon for alcohol at my local dragstrip.

[jckrieger]

I have to drive over 100 miles to the nearest strip, so it's E85 for me! Otherwise I'm stuck buying denatured alcohol from the hardware store.

[whistlin']

Washer fluid = gay. Here's a real world situation. I ran winter washer fluid and could run only 19psi. My A/F sat at 12.7:1. With pure alcohol I'm at 11.5:1 on 23psi. Granted these tests were done on different days, but the time of day and conditions were similar.



I pay $2.90/gallon for alcohol at my local dragstrip.

I purchased my kit for detonation suppression. The washer fluid does just that even with stock fueling and no intercooler at 20psi with 16 degrees base timing advance. Hardly gay...LOL!

[Clay]

Washer fluid = gay. Here's a real world situation. I ran winter washer fluid and could run only 19psi. My A/F sat at 12.7:1. With pure alcohol I'm at 11.5:1 on 23psi. Granted these tests were done on different days, but the time of day and conditions were similar.

washer fluid is just alcohol and water. Water has the ability to remove more heat than alcohol, so it has it advantages.

Im sure since your running pure alcohol you realize that your just adding more fuel, and not cooling off the mixture as much. SO Im sure you realized that more fuel will make you run richer than a fuel(alcohol)/water mix will.

[Aries_Turbo]

of course you were going to get knock dave, you were too lean. youre using it as fuel and a knock suppressant.

Ive run 22-23 psi on pump gas.... with my cal. :) now ive turned the timing up more and use the windshield washer fluid (with my cobblejob alky injection setup lol) to get the 20+ psi with no knock.

Brian

[jckrieger]

Today I installed a second "M15" alcohol nozzle and cranked up the boost to 30psi. The car is now so fast in 3rd gear that I can't look down at any gage, even the speedometer. I've been monitoring the intake temp before the throttle body and on an 85 degree day, the highest temp I recorded (peak) was 98 degrees F. Not bad for a parallel flow cooler and some alcohol (no water).

[whistlin']

Today I installed a second "M15" alcohol nozzle and cranked up the boost to 30psi. The car is now so fast in 3rd gear that I can't look down at any gage, even the speedometer.
Sounds like fun!

[devlish]

...and cranked up the boost to 30psi. Sounds like more fun!!! wow

[Gaboon]

Question:
I want to buy a Devil's own system next week but I'm not sure of something.
I have a custom 2 bar cal in my car yet run 30+ lbs boost when I'm at the track using 116 octane fuel but am limited to 17 lbs on 94 octane on the street. Obviously my map isn't giving info over 14 lbs.
I want to by the 3 bar controller seeing as I am running higher than a 2 bar can read but how do I hook up the controller?

I saw someone hook up a separate 3 bar map to run the controller. How was this done and what info does the 3 bar controller need from the map to run?

Thanks.

[boost geek]

I'm running a 3 bar map that runs just the alky controller, my computer is a stage 2 cal 2 bar. The kit comes with instructions to wire the extra 3 bar sensor, a couple wires and a vacuum source is all you need, it's very easy!:thumb:

[BadAssPerformance]

Question:
I want to buy a Devil's own system next week...

What? No need for alky with your nitrous :)

[boost geek]

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k302/boostgeek/Sep15_32.jpg

[Gaboon]

I'm running a 3 bar map that runs just the alky controller, my computer is a stage 2 cal 2 bar. The kit comes with instructions to wire the extra 3 bar sensor, a couple wires and a vacuum source is all you need, it's very easy!:thumb:

Thanks! Good to know.

[Gaboon]

What? No need for alky with your nitrous :)

The juice is the secret wepon usually only used in the final or going for high score on the dyno.:eyebrows:

[Gaboon]

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k302/boostgeek/Sep15_32.jpg

Thanks.

[BadAssPerformance]

The juice is the secret wepon usually only used in the final or going for high score on the dyno.:eyebrows:

Gotcha... ;)

[1966 dart wagon]

sorry for waking it up from the dead, but its a good thread...anyways:

wow this looks like the way to go, im confused on how you guys are making it yourself, which is how i would like to do this kind of kit. how do you wire up so the kit/home made kit knows when to spray...a pressure switch, how does that get turned on. so say i put this on my intercooled car, so i can boost more correct im looking at maybe 18-20psi, which i see some non intercooled guys are doing. is there a way to know when the mixuture is getting low, besides low washer fluid, i dont think my light works...have to fix that. so if i ran out of a mix i would probably start detinating the engine right

[Clay]

any number of ways to initiate the spray. Most of the kits out there use some kind of trigger for boost, be it MAP sensor voltage, a built in sensor, etc.

But you could use a Hobbs pressure switch, a WOT switch, an RPM activated switch. Obviously with a boosted motor, the best way is some kind of boost related switch.

As for a level indicator, I bet you can make something work from a car with a level indicator and add it on, or buy something (ie McMaster Carr level switch) and make it work.

IF you tuned your car to work with the alky, and then ran out mid way through a run, yeah, you could have detonation issues.

[turbovanman²]

I made my own using a hobbs switch, nos nozzle and fuel pump but the fuel pump seized up. It worked ok but theres no progression, its on or off, and can cause knock due to the sudden dose of alky.

After buying the Devils own, no more issues like that, there a great product. :amen:

[Turbo224]

The Devils Own kit is on my wish list for sure!

[Turbodave]

As for a level indicator, I bet you can make something work from a car with a level indicator and add it on, or buy something (ie McMaster Carr level switch) and make it work.

Now you got me thinking that a level switch wired to a NC relay (opens when the level switch would normally turn on the low fluid light) wired in series to a high boost solenoid on a two stage boost controller woud work out nice. Run low on alky, light comes on, high boost solenoid is de-activated and your back to a safe low-boost setting.

[1966 dart wagon]

Now you got me thinking that a level switch wired to a NC relay (opens when the level switch would normally turn on the low fluid light) wired in series to a high boost solenoid on a two stage boost controller woud work out nice. Run low on alky, light comes on, high boost solenoid is de-activated and your back to a safe low-boost setting.

hmm thats a good idea, make a 2 stage boost controler so i can have all the tire roasting fun i want on one way(with alky) and the other side of the switch would be for normal 91 octan boost levels(or whichever gas i run) :nod: what would you guys say is a safe boost level for the lower oct gas, say 87 or 89. i was always running 93(with 10% eth) and i had no problems running 14.7psi, even with the lil bit of creep and cut i got, verified though plugs. they always looked good woo:D

[1FastCSX289]

For the cost of the devilsown....I dont think its worth messing with making one. Its priced right, no guess work, and it works great. Ive got a progressive kit. I can watch the intake temps on the datalog DROP like a rock as you go down the track. There are some nights last year when I was running like 75* intake manifold temps!

As for the level thing......I just open the hood and look. It takes a while to dump a half gallon of alky, unless you drive like a maniac everywhere you go.

[devlish]

have a low & high boost switch for your dual stage BC, and have the alky come on only when in high boost mode. then you know your safe tooling around town on low boost at 12-14psi, but when you flip high boost on at 18psi+ your alky kit is set to come on then at anything over "X"psi. that's what i plan to do someday. have it wired into my high boost setting switch.

[Clay]

well, there is a starting PSI setting on most of these, so you dont even need to have the boost controller wired on/off. Just set your 2 stage boost controller so the starting point for the alky is higher boost than what the low setting will provide.

[whistlin']

There are a lot of ways you can do it yourself and get by cheap which afterall is the TD way.;)
I know for myself the Devilsown was the way to go, tried and true. The more complicated of a system you make on your own, the more room for error. The Devilsown is easy to hook up and easy to tune.
I'm working on paying it off with better mileage and cheaper gas. 2.5 T1 getting 30mpg in a spirit with an automatic on 89 octane gas, can't complain.

[contraption22]

Resurecting an old thread.

Just did some test burns on my Horizon with the Devil's own Kit installed.

Here's whats going down.
Stage II progressive alky.
Single M7 Jet
PEAK -20 Degree Washer Fluid.
12 degrees base timing
30psi of boost
93 octane fuel
0 knock!

[turbovanman²]

Resurecting an old thread.

Just did some test burns on my Horizon with the Devil's own Kit installed.

Here's whats going down.
Stage II progressive alky.
Single M7 Jet
PEAK -20 Degree Washer Fluid.
12 degrees base timing
30psi of boost
93 octane fuel
0 knock!

Pretty sweet setup huh? :nod:

[Aries_Turbo]

uh oh mikey, thats simon boost level territory. watch out :)

Brian

[turbovanman²]

uh oh mikey, thats simon boost level territory. watch out :)

Brian

Nah, he's 5 lbs shy, :D

[Aries_Turbo]

lol. hehe

Brian

[contraption22]

Pretty sweet setup huh? :nod:

It is a pretty damned sweet setup! The only thing I have questions about his how do I know I am not injecting too much water? I mean their nozzle size calculator suggests 7gpm nozzle for a 2.2L @ 6000 RPM w/30psi of boost.... but that is at 100psi pump pressure. I think the pump the kit comes with hits 150psi. Does that take into consideration the boost pressure in the pipe working against nozzle flow? That still leaves me with 120psi.....

[turbovanman²]

It is a pretty damned sweet setup! The only thing I have questions about his how do I know I am not injecting too much water? I mean their nozzle size calculator suggests 7gpm nozzle for a 2.2L @ 6000 RPM w/30psi of boost.... but that is at 100psi pump pressure. I think the pump the kit comes with hits 150psi. Does that take into consideration the boost pressure in the pipe working against nozzle flow? That still leaves me with 120psi.....

Not sure. I tried the smaller jet first and didn't really do anything. I then tried the next one, I think its a 7 or 9, that did the trick. I guess try another size and see what happens, it will probably run like crap with a too big nozzle.

[Tony Hanna]

I know if you're running pure methanol, it'll blubber like an over rich 2 stroke if you feed it too much. Not sure on the different mixes though.

[contraption22]

Im just running washer fluid thats 30% alky 70% water.

[Tony Hanna]

Im just running washer fluid thats 30% alky 70% water.

I don't even know how a person would go about getting the proper amount with a mix like that. The only thing that comes to mind is to datalog several runs while monitoring knock and taking a little out each time, then stop and add a little back in when you start to see knock.

That seems sort of risky though at 30 psi.

[contraption22]

Im not so much looking to quell knock as I am to cool the intake charge.
The fact that I hit 30psi with no knock is very nifty, but I most likely will never take that chance again. I will at the very least be using 104 octane unleaded to do that in the future.

[turbovanman²]

Why? for better protection, use the blue stuff, 50/50. So far, I've run 21 psi on 94 octane in the van, no knock.

[contraption22]

Eh i hear you. It might never become an issue, but I always live by the mantra, just because you could, doesn't mean you should. The high octane unleaded might had a hint of cusion in the case that somethign fails with the water injection.

My whole reason for installing the kit was not so much being in danger of knock, but being concerned that I have reached the limit of the cooling capacity of my intercooler, so I am leaving some power on the table that a cooler charge may provide.

[Tony Hanna]

Eh i hear you. It might never become an issue, but I always live by the mantra, just because you could, doesn't mean you should. The high octane unleaded might had a hint of cusion in the case that somethign fails with the water injection.

My whole reason for installing the kit was not so much being in danger of knock, but being concerned that I have reached the limit of the cooling capacity of my intercooler, so I am leaving some power on the table that a cooler charge may provide.

In that case I'd say some dyno or track time spent playing with the alky injection at a safe boost level might be the answer.

[contraption22]

In that case I'd say some dyno or track time spent playing with the alky injection at a safe boost level might be the answer.

I agree that would be the only thing to do. Add water and check charge temps till the power drops, then back off a tad.

Honestly on my test run, I had no idea where my boost controller was set, and really had no intention of boosting to 30psi.... but it happened, and it was cool lol!

[Tony Hanna]

I agree that would be the only thing to do. Add water and check charge temps till the power drops, then back off a tad.

Honestly on my test run, I had no idea where my boost controller was set, and really had no intention of boosting to 30psi.... but it happened, and it was cool lol!

It's alot of fun that's for sure! I ran my old Daytona around on the street at 28 psi on 93 octane with 2bar electronics and a cutout raiser for the better part of a summer using a home made alky injection rig and pure methanol to provide all the extra fuel.:D
I may be doing something similar to the Sundance if I can't get the 3bar and +40's to play nice. Hmm... Maybe I can trade the map and injectors for a Devils Own kit and a cutout raiser...:evil:

[Aries_Turbo]

tooooonnnnnnnnnny (in a fatherly voice) tisk tisk. :) add the alky after you dial in the electronics. :)

Brian

[Ondonti]

I would only run 100% meth if you are just trying to cool the charge. Water is just killing power in the cylinders when all you really want is to cool the intake charge (not slow combustion like someone would do who was running way to much boost for their octane).

I run e85 in my 3 nozzle system now :D. Smells like apple cider when I get on it.

I enjoy the progressive controller cause I can use it to force the A/F to be lean till 5-6 psi (or whatever I choose) and then add more e85 as boost increases. Allowed me to turn the rate on my RRR way down too. The RRR cant help tune the low boost areas. Ghetto fuel control is sorta fun when its very reliable. Hopefully I can ditch that this winter.

[jckrieger]

Mmm, e85. Smells like corn whiskey when it's burning. I put it in my Cub Cadet and about get drunk every time I mow the lawn.

[turbovanman²]

Isn't E85 flammable? I would think thats dangerous having that in your Alky bottle, with the fumes floating around the engine bay, unless its inert? we don't have that around here.

[Tony Hanna]

I wouldn't think it would be any worse than the gas fumes floating around in there from running with the charcoal cannister unhooked. If a person was real worried about it, they could rig up an external vent.

[Sloride]

Specific heat capacity.....
water - 4.187 kJ/kgK
water vapor - 1.996 kJ/kgK
methanol 2.545 KJ/Kg K
ethanol 2.470 KJ/Kg K

i couldn't find meth and eth vapor readings.

out of the 3, liquid water can absorb the most heat (theroy)
meth and eth are secondary fuels+ absorb heat.... (probably make more power)

perhaps going with the 50 50 will be your safest route...
i would however love back to back tests between water and mix at 25 to 30 psi. :whip:


Im having horrible flashbacks to chem+physics.... :faint: