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View Full Version : What weight oil for SRT4?



slasky
03-22-2007, 09:22 PM
I have been using mobil 1 5w30. The filler cap says 5 w 30 but the owner's manual says 10 w 30. Which is right?

turbovanman²
03-23-2007, 03:53 AM
I really hate using thin oils in turbo motors, so I would use 10W40. I believe 5w30 is the correct fill but again, I think its really too thin, especially when beating on it.

Keito
03-23-2007, 06:17 AM
Did you get the stack of yellow cards with the owners manual when you bought your car?
The cards are the information that overides the owners manual.
The one card says to use 5W30 instead of 10.
Since I only drive my car in the summer, I use 10W30.

Frank
03-23-2007, 07:39 AM
I really hate using thin oils in turbo motors, so I would use 10W40. I believe 5w30 is the correct fill but again, I think its really too thin, especially when beating on it.


Ya but it is a pressure vs flow balance that the engine and its specifications require. Thinner oil maybe fine since tollerances are tight. The thinner oil will cause less pressure but more flow to cool and refresh components. Is that the case? I dont know but just going thin isn't really the answer and should be carefully analyized. :thumb:

slasky
03-23-2007, 09:05 AM
Did you get the stack of yellow cards with the owners manual when you bought your car?
The cards are the information that overides the owners manual.
The one card says to use 5W30 instead of 10.
Since I only drive my car in the summer, I use 10W30.
I did not read the yellow cards. I have been using 5 w 30 mobil 1. I change it out every 3K so I guess I should be OK.

turbovanman²
03-23-2007, 01:09 PM
Ya but it is a pressure vs flow balance that the engine and its specifications require. Thinner oil maybe fine since tollerances are tight. The thinner oil will cause less pressure but more flow to cool and refresh components. Is that the case? I dont know but just going thin isn't really the answer and should be carefully analyized. :thumb:

I here ya, but I like to err on the side of caution, lol! :amen:

In the winter I run 10w30 just because its cold and I am not beating on it, summer time it gets 15w40, or 5w40 because I am beating the living sh*t out of it, :p

Speedeuphoria
03-23-2007, 02:10 PM
or 0w40

what is your cold idle oil pressure w/ that 15w40?

I saw a DCR 2.6 stroker motor, and they recomended 20w50(not sure what the clearances are)

contraption22
03-23-2007, 02:15 PM
I use 5W30. No consumption problems. Always come out clean. It has a half-hearted oil cooler so I don't see the need to go thicker.

contraption22
03-23-2007, 02:17 PM
or 0w40

what is your cold idle oil pressure w/ that 15w40?

I saw a DCR 2.6 stroker motor, and they recomended 20w50(not sure what the clearances are)

Wow.... a 2.4 with a LONGER stroke? I figured that would be the last thing it needs.

Speedeuphoria
03-23-2007, 02:25 PM
never heard of it?

they offset grind the mains on the crank, making the journals same size as a mitsu 4g63. Custom pistons/rods ect. Oh and this is the one that the rev to 10,000rpms:D(suprised the pistons dont just disappear)
They say its more efficient all the way.

sounds great for rwd or awd, for fwd I would be more interested in a 2.2 de stroke

1FastCSX289
03-23-2007, 02:33 PM
Why you wasting your money on that Mobil 1 crap? Put straight 50 weight non-detergent oil in it. :lol:

Frank
03-23-2007, 02:36 PM
Wow.... a 2.4 with a LONGER stroke? I figured that would be the last thing it needs.

Ya, that is what Darrell Cox uses in the SRT-4... its either a 2.6 or 2.7 liter 2.4 with the mitsu head at N2O. Thats why I am not impressed at his times... it should be cake walk to run those.

Rant off!

Jackrabbit
03-23-2007, 02:41 PM
The problem with too thick of oil in an OHC car is the time it takes the oil to reach the top end. 10w30 would be fine in the summer and probably winter in most places.
But out here where it gets single digits in the cold months anything thicker could cause premature wear especially on the top end.
I run 5w30 most the time, and sometimes I'll run 10w30 June-August in the race cars.

contraption22
03-23-2007, 03:06 PM
Ya, that is what Darrell Cox uses in the SRT-4... its either a 2.6 or 2.7 liter 2.4 with the mitsu head at N2O. Thats why I am not impressed at his times... it should be cake walk to run those.

Rant off!

I don't think he runs the Mitsu head on the Hot Rod class car. I think he used to run that on the Pro-FWD class Shaun Carlson car when that was campaigned.

turbovanman²
03-23-2007, 03:30 PM
or 0w40

what is your cold idle oil pressure w/ that 15w40?

I saw a DCR 2.6 stroker motor, and they recomended 20w50(not sure what the clearances are)


Not sure, I just use the stock guage. I just make sure to let it warm up before beating on it. Just took the head apart and no premature wear either, well unless you count the busted valves, :(

Speedeuphoria
03-24-2007, 08:03 AM
I don't think he runs the Mitsu head on the Hot Rod class car. I think he used to run that on the Pro-FWD class Shaun Carlson car when that was campaigned.

hear ya go

contraption22
03-24-2007, 10:02 AM
Well then, I do stand corrected! Been a while since I payed attention I guess!

I remember it like this:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=5112&cat=500

TonaChris
03-28-2007, 11:34 PM
Holy shnikies, I need that set up for my daytona.

stimpy23
02-07-2008, 04:21 PM
To dredge up an OLD thread, I found this at work, I was wondering also about oil weight:

"The Owner’s Manual in about 3,300 of the above vehicles incorrectly recommends
Mobil 1® 10W-30 synthetic engine oil. Although this oil will not harm the engine,
emissions and fuel economy testing of the SRT-4 was performed with 5W-30
mineral based engine oil. Emission regulations require that the oil used for
emission and fuel economy testing be the same as the oil that is recommended in
the Owner’s Manual for normal driving and use."

Just passing it along because there didn't seem to be a final answer.

turbodaytona87
04-03-2008, 11:02 AM
I use 5w-30 in everything I own. I mean weather is a 10w-30 or 5w-30 or even 0w-30 its all going to be the same viscosity when it warms up. So don't beat on your car when its cold(which you shouldn't do no matter what oil you have) and it'll be alright. I have 10w-30 in my Daytona now for break in, once that's done though, I'm going to run a 5w-30 synthetic.

Keito
04-03-2008, 02:49 PM
To dredge up an OLD thread, I found this at work, I was wondering also about oil weight:

"The Owner’s Manual in about 3,300 of the above vehicles incorrectly recommends
Mobil 1® 10W-30 synthetic engine oil. Although this oil will not harm the engine,
emissions and fuel economy testing of the SRT-4 was performed with 5W-30
mineral based engine oil. Emission regulations require that the oil used for
emission and fuel economy testing be the same as the oil that is recommended in
the Owner’s Manual for normal driving and use."

Just passing it along because there didn't seem to be a final answer.

Mine must have been one of the 3300, since I got a yellow
card saying I should use 5-30 instead of 10.

neongary
04-12-2008, 10:54 PM
The second number (30) is the viscosity of the oil at operating temperature, so I don't know what everyone is stressing about. 5W/10W is the viscosity of the oil when cold. So those of you "beating" on the car after it's warmed up, it doesn't make a flip of difference if its 5W-30 or 10W-30. 5W flows better than 10W when it's cold, something you really want in a OHC engine. You want the oil to get to the upper areas of the engine as quickly as possible. Nearly every car and light truck these days specifies 5W-30.

Speedeuphoria
04-12-2008, 11:49 PM
hence why I run 0w-40:thumb:
Want the oil fast to the engine, I dont drive it alot so it may help, and no way I beat on it cold.

neongary
04-13-2008, 11:09 AM
hence why I run 0w-40:thumb:
Want the oil fast to the engine, I dont drive it alot so it may help, and no way I beat on it cold.

That's great, but be careful when choosing a oil with such a wide range of viscosity. More non-beneficial additives are put into such oils to give them that wide range than a oil with a narrower range. (5W-30 vs 5W-50 for example)

turbovanman²
04-13-2008, 04:27 PM
The second number (30) is the viscosity of the oil at operating temperature, so I don't know what everyone is stressing about. 5W/10W is the viscosity of the oil when cold. So those of you "beating" on the car after it's warmed up, it doesn't make a flip of difference if its 5W-30 or 10W-30. 5W flows better than 10W when it's cold, something you really want in a OHC engine. You want the oil to get to the upper areas of the engine as quickly as possible. Nearly every car and light truck these days specifies 5W-30.

I disagree, theory is a wonderful thing but reality sometimes shows us differently. I get to change alot of oil and know what viscosity I put in my customers cars, the thinner oils, IE 5w30, 0w30's etc come out warm like runny piss water, the thicker oils, 10w40, 15w40 come out substantially thicker. Years ago, I got sponsored by BG products, they gave me 0w40 race oil to use, it went in my 93 cbr900rr race bike, lets just say, bad choice, my gear box let go that year-I should never have run it because you could feel how notchy the shifting became. I replaced it with a used gear box, went back to Castrol 20w50 GTX and never had an issue again. We can argue until were blue in the face but for the average driver, yes, oil weight doesn't matter, but add a turbo, more boost, race it etc, then you need a thicker oil.

CSX321
04-13-2008, 05:15 PM
hence why I run 0w-40:thumb:
Want the oil fast to the engine, I dont drive it alot so it may help, and no way I beat on it cold.

Same here: Mobil1 0W-40. That is a very good oil, IMO. From what I've read, it has excellent resistance to breakdown at high temperatures.

neongary
04-13-2008, 07:58 PM
I disagree, theory is a wonderful thing but reality sometimes shows us differently. I get to change alot of oil and know what viscosity I put in my customers cars, the thinner oils, IE 5w30, 0w30's etc come out warm like runny piss water, the thicker oils, 10w40, 15w40 come out substantially thicker. Years ago, I got sponsored by BG products, they gave me 0w40 race oil to use, it went in my 93 cbr900rr race bike, lets just say, bad choice, my gear box let go that year-I should never have run it because you could feel how notchy the shifting became. I replaced it with a used gear box, went back to Castrol 20w50 GTX and never had an issue again. We can argue until were blue in the face but for the average driver, yes, oil weight doesn't matter, but add a turbo, more boost, race it etc, then you need a thicker oil.

People should be educated, so your insight and experience is helpful for those that need to make a decision. I'm not going to spout my credentials, that would be pointless, but like you I am going to stick to what works. I've never had a engine/turbo/trans/rear failure by using oil weight recommendations provided by the manufacturer. I'm not a scientist or engineer and guess just too chicken to experiment. :thumb:

turbovanman²
04-16-2008, 06:15 PM
People should be educated, so your insight and experience is helpful for those that need to make a decision. I'm not going to spout my credentials, that would be pointless, but like you I am going to stick to what works. I've never had a engine/turbo/trans/rear failure by using oil weight recommendations provided by the manufacturer. I'm not a scientist or engineer and guess just too chicken to experiment. :thumb:


Well, the oil was free, hahahahaha, :lol:

05acr/88shelby
06-01-2008, 05:13 PM
i run amsoil 5w40.

WVRampage
06-01-2008, 07:04 PM
My Volvo calles for 5w-30 oil unless you use sythetic and then it calls for 10w-30 so I think 10w-30 should be fine.

WickedShelby88
06-03-2008, 01:18 AM
The wider the range say like 5W-50 the more quickly the oil breaks down. As far as viscosity goes your best bet in a turbo turd is say SAE 30 or 40... Wouldn't ever go 50 regardless unless the engine clearances necessitated as such. Like an old big block .... Even then it would be like 20W---. Synthetic for those of you who never read or have never heard this is actually still dino based.. Yeah thats right mineral based...!!!, but not as we know it. There is a chemical reaction or a lab situation that forces the molecules to conform to certain tolerances controlled in the size or weight that is desired which is why synthetic oils will beat the snot out of naturally occuring mineral oil hands down. So if it calls for 5W30 and your running synthetic and changing it every 3k your engine should literally run forever if you don't beat on it... Thats pretty much overkill from a daily driver standpoint which I would much rather be doing than dragging it out like "they" say you can. DIRT AND HEAT are the main things that kill an engine. Mechanical fatigue is next, but only if you beat on it or the engines design causes it to stress as such IE the f---ing 2.5 engine.. The rod ratio in that sh--box along with the piston design is horrid.. Its still good enough to go 200k, but if you don't beat on them.. You ever pull pistons that ever made it past 150k and you will know what I mean.. the fronts and backs will look like they were having a bad day to say the least. The 2.4 is a very well designed and engineered engine.. That sucker is good to at least 400hp with a stock bottom end.. I'd say you will be OKAY..

Greedy
06-03-2008, 08:02 PM
I disagree, theory is a wonderful thing but reality sometimes shows us differently. I get to change alot of oil and know what viscosity I put in my customers cars, the thinner oils, IE 5w30, 0w30's etc come out warm like runny piss water, the thicker oils, 10w40, 15w40 come out substantially thicker. Years ago, I got sponsored by BG products, they gave me 0w40 race oil to use, it went in my 93 cbr900rr race bike, lets just say, bad choice, my gear box let go that year-I should never have run it because you could feel how notchy the shifting became. I replaced it with a used gear box, went back to Castrol 20w50 GTX and never had an issue again. We can argue until were blue in the face but for the average driver, yes, oil weight doesn't matter, but add a turbo, more boost, race it etc, then you need a thicker oil.

Why don't you just use straight 50 weight?

WickedShelby88
06-04-2008, 12:17 PM
Its really too thick if your running factory bearing clearances and such. You will run into problems with wear when the engine is cold.