Can you remove a 2 piece intake fuel rail?!?!?

[DC Turismo]

I just put in my new motor into the Daytona, but then I realized that I need to swap out the t2 harness that is on the 2 piece currently with my t1 harness (plugs are different).

I should have taken it off when it was on the engine stand but I didn't. Now, the motor is bolted into the car. The bolts are off of the fuel rail (so it wiggles freely) and, if looking from left to right, #3 and #4 injectors are out, but cannot get #1 and #2 out.

Any tricks that you guys have done in the past?

[supercrackerbox]

I've always had to remove the valve cover for some extra wiggling room.

[mo' parts]

billy, just finished going through all of that a couple weeeks ago, although i did it with the head off the car. still i had to pull the valve cover, and fpr to get it off.
warm the fuel rail up some by taking it indoors or use a hair dryer after removal, this will help reduce the breaking/cracking of the wiring harness when removed.

[Clay]

check this thread. Lots of good info:

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6723

[4 l-bodies]

I just put in my new motor into the Daytona, but then I realized that I need to swap out the t2 harness that is on the 2 piece currently with my t1 harness (plugs are different).

I should have taken it off when it was on the engine stand but I didn't. Now, the motor is bolted into the car. The bolts are off of the fuel rail (so it wiggles freely) and, if looking from left to right, #3 and #4 injectors are out, but cannot get #1 and #2 out.

Any tricks that you guys have done in the past?

In your case, since the motor hasn't been fired up yet, the intake gasket and intake manifold shouldn't have become one yet. I'd say just take the eight upper intake manifolds bolts and the one support brace bolt off and take off the upper portion of the intake. You will need to remove the FPR to get to the one fuel rail bolt. It will just come out with no issues. No need for removing valve cover with this method.
Todd

[mock_glh]

Here's my method. Remove the regulator. Remove the bolts from the fuel rail. Remove the clips from the injectors. Pull the injectors out of the fuel rail (let them go into the holes on the manifold). Once they are all out it will be easy to remove the rail. :)

[ShelbyMotorsports]

Valve cover & pressure regulator removal has always worked for me.

[iTurbo]

Removing the valve cover and regulator is what I have done as well. I now have a FWDP rail on there and getting the rail in/out or changing injectors is 100x easier thanks to the removeable rail brackets.

[DC Turismo]

Thanks guys! The link that Clay posted proved to be very useful!

Got the fuel rail out (valve cover wasn't on yet, took the FPR off and the four fuel rail bolts, pushed the remaining two injectors as far into the manifold and wala... fuel rail came right out after a bit more wiggling).

Now the problem is this. The t2 injector harness that was on the 2 piece will not plug into mine. So, I have to put my t1 injector harness on in place of this. But, since the t1 injector harness is not made to go behind the fuel rail, it's making things difficult fitting wise.

Also, dealing with the knock sensor, how does it hook up? Should the plug type thing that comes out of the injector harness have a little wire attached to it or no? And should that plug be screwed onto the knock sensor or just pop into place with a bit of oomph?

[supercrackerbox]

Can you pop the tabs out and put the TII wires into the TI connector?

IIRC, the knock sensor has its own separate little wire, or at least it did on my car. The connector just snaps in place, just like the water temp sensor by your #1 cylinder.

[DC Turismo]

Well with the t2 connector it is square with flat pins, but the factory plug on my car is more oval shaped with round pins inside. Also, I think the square plug has 4 prongs and my oval plug has 4 prongs?

[supercrackerbox]

Hmm. Well now I know what to look forward to on my Charger.

[Turbodave]

If your still running the 90 electronis on the Daytona, you'll want to stick with the 90 Wiring harness since the injectors are fired sequentially instead of batch like the 89 and earlier cars. I'm pretty sure the wiring in the harness is different as a result so just trying to change the plug might not work.

[DC Turismo]

Thanks Dave, and to all of you who posted.

We got the fuel rail in place with the 90 injector harness intact (after lots of maneuvering and patience) and needless to say, when we went to start up the car for the first time, simple gasoline was leaking from around the FPR and the first injector region of the fuel rail. So, I'm going ot look into that tomorrow, hoping its only an O-ring and not the rail itself.

[BadAssPerformance]

The o-rings get sliced easily when putting the injectors/regulator in, especially if you dont use vaseline or other lube when pressing them in.

[supercrackerbox]

Sorry, I was under the impression that this was all going into the Turismo.

[DC Turismo]

HAHA Not yet Adam ;) Have to get my daily driver done first! :D

[Twisted Noodle]

I know this is an old thread, but I am in the process of installing my +40's on my SL and needed help. This thread and the one Clay posted below proved very helpful.

MODS: Maybe we could put this in the "Knowledge Center", or someone could write an article to put in there? There isn't any info about removal or installation of injectors in there.


check this thread. Lots of good info:

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6723

I am popping the injectors in and then looking for the wiring info on the 3 bar to put my new 3 bar in (non GM). Is there anything else I should look for when installing the injectors? Anything I should pay close attention to?

Thanks

[Force Fed Mopar]

I have gotten mine out w/o pulling the vc or the FPR, I just pop #1 injector out and it gives enough room to slide the whole assy to the pass side a bit and then twist it up and out.