wtb headlight module

[87csx2.4]

I need a headlight module for a 1990 daytona shelby.

[sdac guy]

Well I'll tell you right now, don't go to the dealer. The only module referenced in their parts system is the one the older models used (mounts in the speaker opening in the dash).

I fought for a couple years trying to find out why my headlights wouldn't work right. When I bought my Daytona, the lights were always up.

There are two items controlling the headlights motors in the 1990 Daytona (and only that year). There is a body controller module in the kick panel that controls the locks, headlights, & turn signals among other items. If it fails, it goes into default mode and leaves the headlights up.

The first trouble I had with my lights was a bad body computer. A re-man one from the dealer parts dept fixed it. But less than a year later the light motors would work at times and then not. And they would stick in either up or down position. And then at times they would work fine for a week or two.

This went on for some time. I ordered a new headlamp controller module (without ever seeing mine) from the dealer. I got the old style module but didn't know it was the wrong one. By the time I discovered it was the wrong one, I couldn't take it back (it's an electrical item).

I have a friend that was getting me used modules (the correct ones) from the junkyard. I took one of these apart and and also the new one from the dealer. The same kind of relays are used in both modules. I rebuilt one of the junkyard modules with parts from the new module. Swapped all 3 relays and the diodes also.

It worked for a while, then started getting erratic again. I started manually cranking the headlights up with the knobs under the hood. But the module seemed to work fine bringing them down at times. So for a long time I just unhooked the module with the lamps up and drove it like that. You do not need the module for the lights themselves to work, only the motors.

Finally last summer I found the problem. It is a design flaw or manufacturing problem. I've now found it in two of the modules I have. The pins for the connector develop cracks in their solder joint to the circuit board.

If you are fairly certain the problem you are having with your headlamp motors is the headlamp module and not the body controller module, I may be able to help you fix it. But you need to be able to solder.

In the 1990 Daytona the headlamp module mounts on the left side of the steering column down by the floor. It is like a small block 3x3x1.5".

1. Pull the module out of the car, and with a razor knife, carefully cut the case apart on the seam where it is glued together. When all done you will be able to glue the top back onto the body of the case.

2. Use your razor knife again to go around the perimeter of the gel. Loosening it so that the board with the gel compound can be removed from the body of the case. It will come out without too much struggle.

3. On the back side of the board remove all the gel only in the area of the connector.

4. Resolder all the connector pin joints to the circuit board.

5. Before you put the board back in the case. Go try it in the car. You might have to bring the wiring harness connector forward some to do this.

Hope this helps.

Barry

[DC Turismo]

Thanks for the information Barry!!! My car does that as well. We would usually swap the black box, or give it a good shaking and sometimes that would help. I'll have to try this within the next few days to see if I can do it!

[sdac guy]

Oh if you shake it or move the connector on it and it starts working, that is for sure the problem. That is what tipped me off on mine finally.

I've had the circuit board hanging by the connector near the hood release for a couple years now, so it would be convenient to work on. Last summer I noticed that when they quit working if I just moved the plug a little while trying the headlight switch I could get them to work for a bit.

Someone younger with sharp eyes might have seen it in the beginning. But when I went to check the plug to see if there was corrosion or anything, the light caught it just right and I thought, "Is that a crack in that solder joint?" I went for my flashlight and magnifying glass and sure enough there was a crack on two or three pins.

Then I looked at my spare (which is also a bare board out of the box) and it had cracks in the solder also.

Good luck.

Barry

[thx138]

Just for your information. The 90 J-bodies have the same underdash controller. I am using a j-body in my g-body (they have the same part numbers).

[sdac guy]

I believe all the block type headlight control modules are the same for 1990 regardless of car model. But the part number listed in the parts manual is for the 1989 & below module. BTW, that module is plug compatable with the 1990 part, but it is not electrically compatable. The older style will not work when plugged into a 1990.

The older style had quite a few chips and other controlling circuitry in the module. In 1990 that circuitry was moved to the body controller, leaving only 3 relays and about a half dozen diodes on the circuit board.

In 1991 and up the headlight controller module was eliminated completely and everything ended up in the body controller.

Barry

[turbovanman²]

I have one if you want one, make an offer.

[87csx2.4]

Oh if you shake it or move the connector on it and it starts working, that is for sure the problemThis is exactly what happens I can shake the module and sometimes they will pop up and sometimes not.The last time only the passenger side popped up,thanks for the info barry I will give it a shot.:thumb:

[87csx2.4]

I have one if you want one, make an offer.Simon thanks for the reply I will let you know.

[TonaChris]

This is really good info. I think it should be placed in a 'how to' somewhere.


Well I'll tell you right now, don't go to the dealer. The only module referenced in their parts system is the one the older models used (mounts in the speaker opening in the dash).

I fought for a couple years trying to find out why my headlights wouldn't work right. When I bought my Daytona, the lights were always up.

There are two items controlling the headlights motors in the 1990 Daytona (and only that year). There is a body controller module in the kick panel that controls the locks, headlights, & turn signals among other items. If it fails, it goes into default mode and leaves the headlights up.

The first trouble I had with my lights was a bad body computer. A re-man one from the dealer parts dept fixed it. But less than a year later the light motors would work at times and then not. And they would stick in either up or down position. And then at times they would work fine for a week or two.

This went on for some time. I ordered a new headlamp controller module (without ever seeing mine) from the dealer. I got the old style module but didn't know it was the wrong one. By the time I discovered it was the wrong one, I couldn't take it back (it's an electrical item).

I have a friend that was getting me used modules (the correct ones) from the junkyard. I took one of these apart and and also the new one from the dealer. The same kind of relays are used in both modules. I rebuilt one of the junkyard modules with parts from the new module. Swapped all 3 relays and the diodes also.

It worked for a while, then started getting erratic again. I started manually cranking the headlights up with the knobs under the hood. But the module seemed to work fine bringing them down at times. So for a long time I just unhooked the module with the lamps up and drove it like that. You do not need the module for the lights themselves to work, only the motors.

Finally last summer I found the problem. It is a design flaw or manufacturing problem. I've now found it in two of the modules I have. The pins for the connector develop cracks in their solder joint to the circuit board.

If you are fairly certain the problem you are having with your headlamp motors is the headlamp module and not the body controller module, I may be able to help you fix it. But you need to be able to solder.

In the 1990 Daytona the headlamp module mounts on the left side of the steering column down by the floor. It is like a small block 3x3x1.5".

1. Pull the module out of the car, and with a razor knife, carefully cut the case apart on the seam where it is glued together. When all done you will be able to glue the top back onto the body of the case.

2. Use your razor knife again to go around the perimeter of the gel. Loosening it so that the board with the gel compound can be removed from the body of the case. It will come out without too much struggle.

3. On the back side of the board remove all the gel only in the area of the connector.

4. Resolder all the connector pin joints to the circuit board.

5. Before you put the board back in the case. Go try it in the car. You might have to bring the wiring harness connector forward some to do this.

Hope this helps.

Barry

[DC Turismo]

+1
!!!