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View Full Version : Whats the better boost controller?



jre97
01-21-2006, 01:12 AM
Which is better an adjustable bleed type boost controller or a grainger? I have an adjustable bleed style now made from a torch vavle. It is very finely adjustable but it lacks in consistancy with temperature changes, like now it's winter and usually in cold but it's been hiiting close to 60 the last couple of days and my boost iss down from 14psi to 10psi. Opinions please.

BadAssPerformance
01-21-2006, 01:16 AM
they are all somewhat temp sensitive... the Grainger is a little nicer as the check valve holds it shut so it doesn't creep.

Garret
01-21-2006, 01:39 AM
I get temp changes from -30 degrees celcius to 30 above celcius, I set my Grainger to 15 psi on my gauge in -12 and it stayed that way thru out all the temp ranges. But I have my wastegate vacuum source coming straight off the intake. So 15 psi in the intake is the same pressure no matter what the temp

jre97
01-21-2006, 01:51 AM
I get temp changes from -30 degrees celcius to 30 above celcius, I set my Grainger to 15 psi on my gauge in -12 and it stayed that way thru out all the temp ranges. But I have my wastegate vacuum source coming straight off the intake. So 15 psi in the intake is the same pressure no matter what the temp
Mine is coming off the nipple on the turbo

Garret
01-21-2006, 02:18 AM
Switch your reference to the Manifold

GLHNSLHT2
01-21-2006, 11:14 PM
the grainger is way better.

jre97
01-22-2006, 01:13 AM
Switch your reference to the Manifold
I'll give that a shot.:thumb:

chrisn
01-22-2006, 03:52 AM
the grainger is way better.

+1. had a bleed, it broke, harder to adjust, more parts...

turbovanmanČ
01-22-2006, 05:09 AM
Is a grainger the same as the Dawes? if so, +2, I am running that and 12 psi is 12 psi all year, cold, warm, hot and its hooked up to my compressor.

GLHNSLHT2
01-22-2006, 02:47 PM
yes, dawes and TU and FWDP all sell grainger valves. The barbs that people use are the differences.

butchsuppe
03-27-2006, 02:18 AM
yes, dawes and TU and FWDP all sell grainger valves. The barbs that people use are the differences.
Grainger also sell the valve, you just have to buy the fittings to make it !!!!!

WVRampage
03-27-2006, 02:30 AM
I have a Blitz DSBC its old and got it for free it is a little hard to set and changes with weather but now that I put a cut out raiser on it it works a little beter,once again it was free or would have went will a Grainger.

GLHNSLHT2
03-27-2006, 10:48 AM
Grainger also sell the valve, you just have to buy the fittings to make it !!!!!

correct, I buy all my valves from them. Oh I think I bought one from McMaster Carr once.

10G OMNI
03-28-2006, 12:04 AM
Apex AVC-R for me this year,this should aid in traction since you can set any psi in any gear.I think this is all most a must for high HP cars.

"Top Fuel" Bender
03-28-2006, 08:15 PM
step 1) buy a dual port wastegate can
step 2) buy a manual boost controller from Turbonetic
(or an air compressor regulator)
sep 3) set it and forget it :thumb:

cordes
03-28-2006, 08:28 PM
I have run a grainger and a bleeder in my cars, and the grainger is much, much better. Make your own.

GLHSKEN
03-28-2006, 08:48 PM
Apex AVC-R for me this year,this should aid in traction since you can set any psi in any gear.I think this is all most a must for high HP cars.


How do you control the gears?? Pressure switches on each gate?? I really like that. Reeves could REALLY USE ti.

BadAssPerformance
03-28-2006, 09:28 PM
Maybe starts at 1st and ups the gear each time you clutch it?

10G OMNI
03-29-2006, 01:09 AM
Not sure my self,never came with a manual.I think it has a learn mode where you go through the 5 speeds to program it,after that it just knows.Will know soon.



http://www.turbomr2.com/MR2/HowTo/APEXI%20AVCR/Installing%20APEXi%20AVCR-01.htm

Quick guide to install with some features

briceturbosports
03-29-2006, 09:03 AM
step 1) buy a dual port wastegate can
step 2) buy a manual boost controller from Turbonetic
(or an air compressor regulator)
sep 3) set it and forget it :thumb:

+1 works great never moves :nod:

Dave
03-30-2006, 09:39 PM
I use a HP Performance controller. EASIEST MBC I've ever used. I hate the grainger, it's such a pita compared to the HP Perf. Mine you just unluck the 1/2" lock nut and loosen the bolt that goes through the housing to lower the boost, and tighten it to raise the boost.

Of course I'll admit it varies about 1.5 to 2psi for every 20*F outside. I'm amazed how often I get out of the car to adjust my boost every time I want it right at 15.5psi.

Because of that I'll be mounting it inside my flip up console so I wont have to keep gettin' out.

swiftman
11-11-2006, 10:24 PM
Maybe starts at 1st and ups the gear each time you clutch it?

It uses a reference from your speed/distance sensor and tach to find out what gear you are in...It must first learn the gears...EX: you take of in first and go to the max rpm possible, the controller now now's for first gear what rpm in relation to speed you are running. Even though the speed will overlap between gears the rpm to the speed traveled will be directly tied to the gear you are in. For example 30 in first might be 6000 rpm but in second its 4500, once the controller learns the gears and there ranges you can input how much boost to run in each gear.

Garret
11-12-2006, 07:10 AM
That is a pretty awful setup if it changes with the temp. Like I posted before my straight and simple ball and spring g-valve stays at a rock solid setting regardless of the temp which here in Canada can range from -40 degrees celcius to +40 degress celcius

Dave
11-13-2006, 08:29 PM
That is a pretty awful setup if it changes with the temp. Like I posted before my straight and simple ball and spring g-valve stays at a rock solid setting regardless of the temp which here in Canada can range from -40 degrees celcius to +40 degress celcius

What kind of turbo/WG combo do you have? I just finished making my own MBC (simple T-fitting with ball, spring, and a bolt) and it works great! Much better than the Grainger, which you have to always unplug a vaccum line or rotate the housing to adjust it. I've never seen a difference between my old MBC and the Grainger as far as temp. fluctations go.

I did, however, get to installing mine in-cab and with 2' of vaccum lines on BOTH ports it never spiked or crept. Both controllers always have changed with the air temp and barometric pressure.

Garret
11-14-2006, 01:47 AM
3 different setups and all have been as rock solid as the last
1st was a 2.25 inch SV Garrett
2nd was a 3inch TU SV Garrett
3rd is my current Mitsu turbo with a custom made 3inch SV

MiniMopar
11-14-2006, 03:29 PM
I made a couple of "Graingers" for my cars about 8 years ago and have been using them ever since. They are simple and they work. To keep them clean, I put a little fuel filter for some old carbed Honduh between it and the manifold. Never had to clean them since.

Dave
11-15-2006, 09:17 PM
I made a couple of "Graingers" for my cars about 8 years ago and have been using them ever since. They are simple and they work. To keep them clean, I put a little fuel filter for some old carbed Honduh between it and the manifold. Never had to clean them since.

Have you ever seen any collection of dirt or debris inside the filter??


3 different setups and all have been as rock solid as the last
1st was a 2.25 inch SV Garrett
2nd was a 3inch TU SV Garrett
3rd is my current Mitsu turbo with a custom made 3inch SV

Just wondering, do you also have a 3" downpipe on your mitsu?? I see you say no creep. Do you still have the stock WG assy?

Aron
11-16-2006, 11:36 AM
This is the manual boost controller I have. It has a Grainger and a bleed. You can adjust boost with either one, and it works nicely for me. I don't have boost creep or spikes. I set it at 10#, and it stays there.

http://www.gotboost.us/Products.htm

I have the in-car kit.

turbovanmanČ
11-16-2006, 02:24 PM
This is the manual boost controller I have. It has a Grainger and a bleed. You can adjust boost with either one, and it works nicely for me. I don't have boost creep or spikes. I set it at 10#, and it stays there.

http://www.gotboost.us/Products.htm

I have the in-car kit.

Wow, that looks unreal, might have to get me one if I don't like my Greddy Profect boost controller.

Aron
11-16-2006, 02:36 PM
Wow, that looks unreal, might have to get me one if I don't like my Greddy Profect boost controller.

Those are very popular in the Grand National/Turbo Regal community. I got mine used from a friend who had it in his GN. He took it out when he got an electronic controller.

MiniMopar
11-16-2006, 03:52 PM
Have you ever seen any collection of dirt or debris inside the filter??

Never looked at it, but without it I had to clean the crud out of it every few months. The boost would start dropping. Now it stays clean.

Garret
11-16-2006, 04:55 PM
Have you ever seen any collection of dirt or debris inside the filter??



Just wondering, do you also have a 3" downpipe on your mitsu?? I see you say no creep. Do you still have the stock WG assy?


Stock wastegate assembly. It's just on the stock SV it SLAMS into the wall like an inch away, this one has 3 inches of flow so it doesn't spike or creep at all