PDA

View Full Version : Limits/recommendations for a 2.5 T1?



flatlander757
02-24-2007, 12:36 AM
So I just recently got a 1990 2.5 T1/A413 Sundance and of course I'd like to make it pretty quick:evil: I've been reading tons and tons of stuff between the few TD forums and Gary Donovan's site and a few others as well.

The car's got about 150k on it I'm guessing(odo stopped at 125k 3 years ago). I know it's not generally a great idea to build up a tired motor, but tomorrow I'm planning on doing a compression test to see where it's at as far as that goes. I just got done repairing all the stupid vacuum lines. It started out w/ one leak... I tried to fix it and ended up with about 4 broken lines:mad: Ended up replacing a few parts w/ rubber hose... stupid plastic lines.

I mainly want to know what I can expect to safely do to my car in the meantime to up the power without worrying about it going boom?

I know I NEED a good IC... do you guys think a 2.5" exhaust and grainger'd to about 13psi would be too much for an old motor to handle?

turbovanmanČ
02-24-2007, 12:40 AM
If the compression is good, its not burning oil then yeah, 13 psi would be fine. Of course make sure all your tune-up stuff is good, I sell wires, :eyebrows: coolant hoses are good, belts etc. Install an AF guage is a must and maybe put a new one in-NTK or OEM.

As for the trans, I would drop the pan, look for crap in the filter, if ok, adjust the bands, some new fluid, Dexron or Type F, throw a couple litres of 10w30 synthetic engine oil, maybe turn up the line pressure a bit also.

Tony Hanna
02-24-2007, 12:51 AM
I've run 20+ psi on a 130+ thousand mile motor with no problems. If the compression test looks good, just toss in a new set of bearings for safety sake and go with it. You might blow it up, but you might blow it up 2 weeks after a rebuild too.
I might get flamed for my position on this, but if a motor carries good compression (within 10% on all 4) and carries good oil pressure, I have no reservations about modding it.
Just be careful when you tune, bring up the boost slow, and watch your a/f and egt. It seems like I hear alot more about engine failures due to tuning issues than worn out parts.

Whorse
02-24-2007, 01:05 AM
Just be careful when you tune, bring up the boost slow, and watch your a/f and egt. It seems like I hear alot more about engine failures due to tuning issues than worn out parts.

Hey hey, no making fun of Simon here :lol:

I agree with Tony. If you've been reading Gary Donovon's site, you know to up the boost a pound at a time. Good compression, new bearings, and if you want, a new Head Gasket (some like to leave the old ones in as the HG on these cars is a good 'fuse'), and you should be able to get some more power out of it safely. Under 14.5 psi or so you won't need more fuel generally, but don't hold me to it.

Keep in mind the automatics don't like too much torque without modding. A differential pin retainer is a good upgrade.

Tony Hanna
02-24-2007, 01:25 AM
Hey hey, no making fun of Simon here :lol:

Believe it or not, that actually wasn't aimed at Simon. Just a general observation.
I know how bad it stings when something like that happens, so I'm trying to leave him alone about it. Pity though, that coulda been the perfect burn.:evil:

flatlander757
02-24-2007, 01:31 AM
I must have forgot to add... the previous owner put a TBI A413 in it because the old one blew a front pump:(

I'm not going to waste any time with it other than keep the fluid level in check. When it goes then I'll have an excuse to buy either a mildly build 413 or swap in a 523 or 568:eyebrows:

Anonymous_User
02-24-2007, 01:37 AM
My current shortblock in my Turbo Z was purchased for $10. Compression is good, sounds healthy, I run 20 psi daily.

1.) You've done good in researching.

2.) GET SOME GAUGES. A good boost gauge and an A/F gauge AT THE MINIMUM.

3.) Tune up - plugs, wires, cap, rotor, A GOOD O2 SENSOR, fuel filter. Check your timing. Check your fuel pressure.

Then get a grainger valve and turn the boost up a little at a time. With a healthy motor, good gas, and a good tune, 13 psi should be no problem.

Then start thinking about an intercooler and replace that mitsubishi turbo.

turbovanmanČ
02-24-2007, 05:47 AM
I must have forgot to add... the previous owner put a TBI A413 in it because the old one blew a front pump:(



The stall is lower and its missing some clutches. I would be very careful turning up the boost, you could be walking sooner or later, :(

Whats with all the jabs, :mecry:

flatlander757
02-24-2007, 05:53 PM
The stall is lower and its missing some clutches. I would be very careful turning up the boost, you could be walking sooner or later, :(

Whats with all the jabs, :mecry:

That's why I have the 93 2.2 TBI Sundance... it is so nice having a daily driver incase the fun car blows up:nod:

Also already replaced the timing belt, a leaking cam seal, and a couple other small things:thumb:

Right now the engine is almost free of leaks... I just need to get either another block heater/freeze plug assembly since it is seeping.

mpgmike
02-25-2007, 04:49 AM
We had an '89 Daytona ES Turbo with the 2.5 5-speed. It had a quarter million miles, piston knock, and used a little oil. I added a Conquest IC and upped the boost to 13.5 psi. It would outrun our Spirit R/T (even at 14.5# boost) and just wouldn't go BOOM.

Mike

Mike M
02-25-2007, 11:47 AM
You gotta be careful, and know the limits sometimes... but sometimes you have to ignore what people say is the normal "limit", at least surpass it by a little bit.

My 88 Sundance with a bone stock 2.5L with mitsu installed. No intercooler, no fuel type mods at all. Pump gas, G-valve, 2.5" dp, 2.25 open exhaust, MAP zenered. 15 pounds of boost. 14.49@92MPH.

Obviously people have run far more boost through these motors stock, but I think this is a damn fast time for a "stock" vehicle, or at least with so few mods, especially the no intercooler, zero fuel mods.

Sloride
03-27-2007, 10:38 PM
i lost the ring in cyc 4 just shy of 300,000 kms
i added a ported head, exaust manifold t3/t4 turbo about 2 weeks before she gave out... She was pulling like a freight train. (i picked up a geo tracker for the winter... methinks thats why the daytona died... jealousy :( )

i had about 105 compression.... well now 0 in cyl 4


you should be able to hit the 14psi mark around 170 hp 200+tq

WickedShelby88
03-30-2007, 01:36 AM
You could always buy a whole conquest and see how long a 2.6 will last. Then again we are turbo mopar people here not DSM/dodge. Engines are all different. They all seem to wear a little bit differently no matter who drives then. I used to drag race a lot where I used to live and my 95 Z28 camaro would knock down 13's all day long with nothing more than a K & N and an open exhaust, but there were guys with 4:10's and 3 speed tranny swaps, etc. that couldn't break out of the high 13's low 14's for nothin. I'd be save and tear the engine down if you get to that point or just go mild as previously stated and take it slow. You may get lucky and have a 13 sec or quicker older engine. BadAssPerformance on here has a shadow running 12's on an engine that hasn't really been rebuilt at all.