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ShadowBrad
01-18-2006, 10:21 PM
Well I go to pick up the check for my cut of my grandparent's estate on Friday so I can officially start working on my hybrid engine.
I'm going to go with a 2.2L CB/Neon head with 2.0 cams (might get aftermarket cams not sure yet.)
T3/T4 .63 A/R Stage 2 or 3 with a 60 trim compressor, externally gated.
Forged Wiseco T3 .020 pistons, provided the CR is in the 8.0-8.5:1 area.
Reconditioned T2 rods from one of our vendors.
All ARP hardware, main bolts, head studs or bolts, rod bolts.
Having the head redone, new valves, seals, ect...better lifters? PT? Aftermarket?
Going to order a TU cal.
My boss and I are going to TIG up a log header for the exhaust.
Intake will be made from a cut stratus intake, 4" plenum, short runners.
Pretty much everything in the engine is going to be replaced with new.
I haven't decided on whether to go with the forged crank or not. After seeing what happened to Russ's omni I'm leaning towards the forged.
This will be bolted to either a 555 or 568 tranny and dropped into the 88 Shadow I saved from the crusher a few months ago.

Any suggestions are welcome.
-Brad

heavytank2
02-19-2006, 11:01 PM
Keep us up to date with pics!


I am toying with the idea of going hybrid... lots of welding involved BUT I have access to a huge stick welder and smallish TIG.

jckrieger
02-24-2006, 07:21 PM
I'm pretty sure Russ' Omni died due to a cylinder wall failure that had nothing to do with bottom end flex. Now Nick A broke at least 3 main caps in his non-common block motor... and it had a forged crank! I think the way to go would be to use a good stout common block with whatever crank you can get ahold of.

turbovanmanČ
02-24-2006, 07:29 PM
Russ also bent a cast 2.2 crank, :eek:

Russ Jerome
02-25-2006, 01:53 AM
One of the two happend first not sure what caused what.

Portion of cylinder wall went swimming in coolant, during
reasembly of new block dial indicator went crazy spinning
crank showed .006" runout. Crank was just turned -.10 a
few months earlier, clearly bent from center out no chance
of machine shop imperfection.

If you have a forged crank why risk it, probably smart
insurance even if I had a fluke...at 7000rpm...pulling
an LS1 car..who had slicks...pulling him HARD ;)

ShadowBrad
02-25-2006, 07:14 AM
Just picked up the head from the machine shop yesterday. Had new valves, guides, seals, springs, and keepers installed. I used my old spring caps. Also had it surfaced, the oil drains plugged and the holes under the end cam cap to keep oil pressure off of the head gasket where it has no need to be :thumb:

Head looks beautiful. But the project has now been put on hold due to my loosing my job and being evicted in the same week. Lucky me. Although I currently reside in western PA. I'm planning on moving to La Grande, Oregon. I know some people out there, and my friend has a garage that I can store the shadow I get settled in and get a job kicking out there. I'm upset that I lost my job and place of living in the same week. But this also gives me a more logical reason to leave western PA. I'm sure I'll still be able to have the shadow done by the end of the summer...

Thanks for the support.
Keep up the good work Turbo-Mopar...:thumb:

Edit: I think I'm going to go with a cast crank due to the lightweight and money situation. Unless I happen to find a good CB forged crank once I get to Oregon lol...Oh and Russ...The Omni you built was just friggen AWESOME :amen:

turbovanmanČ
02-25-2006, 01:37 PM
Wow, going from my "My boss will help me tig up the manifold" to loosing your job a few days later, pretty crappy, :(

ShadowBrad
02-25-2006, 03:11 PM
Wow, going from my "My boss will help me tig up the manifold" to loosing your job a few days later, pretty crappy, :(

Yeah for real. I guess that professional mechanics don't like being told they're wrong by 19 year olds. Oh well...My friend that works there said that a few hours after I was fired the boss realized that I was right in the first place. Some people should just have a more open mind. :nod:

GLHSKEN
02-25-2006, 03:29 PM
Go with rods from Chris at TU. I will be buying 2 sets from him this year. I tried another vendor and It cost me a $1300 block due to shortcuts taken. My machinist even warned me ahead that he did not like the looks of them. Everyone had to be resized after I bought them resized.

Well live and learn. I trust Chris at TU 1000%