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View Full Version : 1989 Daytona Shelby 2.5l Worth it?



Gearjamer
01-25-2007, 08:18 AM
Hey folks I've found a 1989 Daytona Shelby with the 2.5l in it. I thought all Shelbys had the 2.2. The listing says new turbo, master cylinder, breaks, and good tires. The pic's show the car to be stright and clean. The interior looks very nice. The car has a digital dash that has some glitches and runs rough. They don't know why. The computer is giving a sensor code. The seller wants 650.00. I would want to get the car to fix it up. When I was 19 in the Navy I almost bought a 1990 Shelby Daytona VNT. Had the car for a week. IT ROCKED! I have a Turbonetics trim 50 turbo with a .48ar stage 3 housing sitting in my garage. I also have a Esslinger ported cylinder head and rollar valve train convertion for a ford 2.3 turbo. I was planning on building a turbo mustang or XR4TI. But I don't have the full package. This car would be the full package. Dose the 2.5 have the performance potental? If I'm in for more motor swaps I might as well stick with what I got.

Thanks

Darkwolf
01-25-2007, 08:28 AM
The automatic daytona shelbys got a 2.5l with a mitsu turbo.

Gearjamer
01-25-2007, 08:33 AM
Was there ever a 2.5l with the 5spd?

BadAssPerformance
01-25-2007, 09:02 AM
You could get a 2.5L Turbo 5-speed in '89 and '90 but it was not a "Shelby" it would be an "ES" In '91-'93 there were "Shelby" or "IROC" 2.5L Turbo 5-speed cars.

Gearjamer
01-25-2007, 09:52 AM
So it's a good chance that this is a automatic car. Would it be a 4spd auto or a 3spd auto? And could it handle me boosting power? Like I said I have a turbonetics trim 50 with a .48ar stage 3 exhaust sitting in my shop. I was planning on putting it on a built 2.3l Ford with a ported head. But I don't have the car to put it in. Just started collecting parts. Was going to drop it in a 2200lb '73 Opel Manta. But the car I found was just to nice to mod.

BadAssPerformance
01-25-2007, 12:35 PM
A413 3 speed auto

yes, it would handle boost depending on what condition it is in.

Gearjamer
01-25-2007, 01:58 PM
THANK YOU! Glad to hear it. My other question is, should it be a turbo 2 car? That's the one with the better bottom end right? Forged crank better rods. The wife gave me the ok to get it if it looks nice. However, Dose anyone need some high end 2.3l Ford stuff? :p The condition is I clear out my other projects.

Bill

BadAssPerformance
01-25-2007, 02:28 PM
The '89 T2 cars were all 2.2L with A555 5-speeds

TurboRon25
01-25-2007, 10:52 PM
You won't have a problem with any of the 89+ (common block) motors taking the power.
Just to summarize/clarify.
All 2.5L turbo cars (outside of Mexico) were TI -non intercooled. They could be either 5 spd (520) or 3 spd auto (413). If it is a "Shelby" and has a 2.5L it is mated to an auto. A "Shelby" with a 5 spd (555) would be a 2.2L TII. If it is in an "ES" 2.5L it could be either 5 spd or auto.

Darkwolf
01-26-2007, 03:40 AM
It has the good rods but a cast crank but you will break many other things long before you ever break the crank. Has anybody ever broke one of our cast cranks from to much power?

Gearjamer
01-26-2007, 03:53 AM
Thanks for all the info guys. I'm going to look at the car Friday morning. Here is my delema. I have two 1973 Opel Manta Ralleys. One is complete and in nice condition the other is a rolling body. I also have a 1985 Merkur Xr4ti that was abandoned and I got from a friend (no title). I have the turbo engine from that car. I was going to build and put it in the Opel with a Turbo Coupe 5spd. I also have a new head fully ported by Esslinger engineering with a rollar cam swap and custom cam, Child & Albert Forged rods, TRW forged pistons, total seal rings, ARP studs for the mains and head as well as con rod bolts. High volume oil pump and ACR bearings. I've also purchaced a Turbonetic T3/T4 trim 50 turbo with .48ar stage 3 turbine. I was planning on putting all this in the Manta but it would take major fab work. So I'm hung up on finding another Ford car or Merkur that can take this motor and tranny or selling the stuff and getting a running car to mod. I can get the Daytona for 600.00 but can I get the same power and performance out of the 2.5 TD with a ported head of course that I could get with the 2.3 Ford Esslinger set up? How dose the Daytona chassis compare to the Merkur XR4Ti. I do like the look of the Daytona better. Like I said before I had a Shelby VNT for a week before I had to give it back for lack of financing (19yr old with no cosigner). For that one week my dad and I were amazed by this car. That's the memory I'm working from. I don't like the fact that this Daytona is an automatic. But the wife dose. The deal is if I get this car the Opels and all the HOT 2.3 turbo parts have to go. She will still let me Keep my 1963 Thunderbird convertable and my 1985 Mustang GT convertable.

So give me some thoughts guys. I can see myself in the Daytona but 400hp worth of Ford parts is calling my name in the shop too. I obviously need to minimize my projects. The Mustang is all but done. The Tbird needs complete restoration. I just want a fun turbo car to experiment on and cruise with as little work as I can get away with

Anonymous_User
01-26-2007, 09:46 PM
The '89 (at least) CS Daytona was available with the 2.5L T1 and a 5-speed transmission (A520).

Tony Hanna
01-27-2007, 01:11 AM
Thanks for all the info guys. I'm going to look at the car Friday morning. Here is my delema. I have two 1973 Opel Manta Ralleys. One is complete and in nice condition the other is a rolling body. I also have a 1985 Merkur Xr4ti that was abandoned and I got from a friend (no title). I have the turbo engine from that car. I was going to build and put it in the Opel with a Turbo Coupe 5spd. I also have a new head fully ported by Esslinger engineering with a rollar cam swap and custom cam, Child & Albert Forged rods, TRW forged pistons, total seal rings, ARP studs for the mains and head as well as con rod bolts. High volume oil pump and ACR bearings. I've also purchaced a Turbonetic T3/T4 trim 50 turbo with .48ar stage 3 turbine. I was planning on putting all this in the Manta but it would take major fab work. So I'm hung up on finding another Ford car or Merkur that can take this motor and tranny or selling the stuff and getting a running car to mod. I can get the Daytona for 600.00 but can I get the same power and performance out of the 2.5 TD with a ported head of course that I could get with the 2.3 Ford Esslinger set up? How dose the Daytona chassis compare to the Merkur XR4Ti. I do like the look of the Daytona better. Like I said before I had a Shelby VNT for a week before I had to give it back for lack of financing (19yr old with no cosigner). For that one week my dad and I were amazed by this car. That's the memory I'm working from. I don't like the fact that this Daytona is an automatic. But the wife dose. The deal is if I get this car the Opels and all the HOT 2.3 turbo parts have to go. She will still let me Keep my 1963 Thunderbird convertable and my 1985 Mustang GT convertable.

So give me some thoughts guys. I can see myself in the Daytona but 400hp worth of Ford parts is calling my name in the shop too. I obviously need to minimize my projects. The Mustang is all but done. The Tbird needs complete restoration. I just want a fun turbo car to experiment on and cruise with as little work as I can get away with

400+ hp is possible on an 8 valve 2.5 and well over that if you switch over to a 16 valve head, but you're going to have a good bit of time and money in getting there. If you're just wanting a fun 250-300 hp street car, that's not near as hard to pull off. As for the transmission, I wouldn't get too worried about it. If you don't like the auto, it's usually pretty easy to find the parts you need to swap in a 5 spd. and the conversion can be done in a weekend. I really all comes down to what you want out of the car, but the potential is there if you're willing to do the work.

Gearjamer
01-27-2007, 02:25 AM
I'm getting the car. I started another thread about that. I don't know if it has the original motor or not. I've seen pic's of turbo 2 motors with the unique intake and that's what this motor looks like. The guy selling the car said someone told him that the current intake is not a 2.5l intake. I'm getting the car tomorrow. I will post pic's.

I am looking for a fun driver on the cheap. As you have read I have other car I would like to put the money into. As per the deal with the wife. My two Opel are up for sale and all the hard core 2.3 Ford stuff. I'm going to keep the turbo.

Thanks again for the responses.

Bill

Tony Hanna
01-27-2007, 05:39 AM
Well, for a fun driver on the cheap, you can do pretty decent with that car for not much money. First thing would be to intercool it (if it isn't already) and go to a 2.5" or 3" exhaust. Second would be to upgrade the turbo if it's still running the little mitsubishi turbo.
The next thing would be to look into adding fuel so you can run more boost. There are a few ways to do this from the old school method of mounting cold start injectors in front of the throttlebody and triggering them with pressure switches to getting your ecu recalibrated and running larger injectors and a 3 bar map sensor. With methanol injection it's even possible to run 30+ psi of boost on pump gas. The possibilities are limitless.

Gearjamer
01-27-2007, 07:29 AM
I'm looking for turn key power. What I mean by that is at anytime when I get in the car and turn the key the power is there. No import "tuner tricks" like running a short belt, pulling the interior, filling a NOS bottle, or pulling out your whole interior to get the car to go faster. I know those things can work. But I'm looking to get more performance from better efficency and improved parts. Look at the car as a whole system. That's the way my mustang is set up. I built it to a roadster theam but got a bit carried away. It will run 13 to 13.20's all day at a full road weight of 3450 and a stiff road course suspension. I enjoy driving it all day, on nice day when they happen here in Oregon. But the wife tolerates it. It rides stiff, the exhaust is loud, and I'm usually zipping down a back road. This car is not pleasent in kind of weather other than a sunny day when I can put the top down. I would like the Daytona to be fun but not too extream. That's why a turbo appeals to me. I can back off the boost and cruise or let it spool up and have a little fun. And it's there when I want it. I don't have to Prep it to have fun. I might get carried away later but much later.

Bill

Tony Hanna
01-27-2007, 08:08 AM
From what you're telling me then, it sounds like your best bet would be to handle the fueling with an ecu recalibration from one of the TM vendors. Assuming a TII Garrett turbo or better and a decent intercooler in combination with bigger injectors, a 255lph fuel pump, and a 3 bar map sensor will let you run around 20 psi of boost on pump gas with no hassle. The computer handles everything.

Gearjamer
01-27-2007, 11:06 AM
On the Ford 2.3 I was thinking Megasquirt. Maybe I'll go that route now. I do have the Turbonetics Trim50 begging me for use. But if the motor is the original 177k lump the new stock Mitsu will probably pop it before long. Can't let the wife know. She thinks this is a light project. :eyebrows: That's why she gave me the green light. So I do have to keep it on the low. I just want to get it running right now. It will start but it barely idles and won't rev. The guy said he put a new turbo on because the other one was seized. After only a few miles it started behaving like it is currently. He thought it was vacuum lines or a bad signal from the transmission transducer. I've had this happen before on a 1980 Turbo Capri RS I had in High School. My sister over heated the car Cracked the head in 6 places and MELTED the turbo. I fixed it all and it never ran right again so I sold the car. Someone then asked: Did you change the catalitic converter? I think that was what has happend here. The old turbo started sucking oil trashed the converter, this guy buys the car on the cheap and thinks it's worth putting a new turbo on, it dosn't work so he sells it. I'll let you know what I find out today after I get the car home.

Birddog
01-27-2007, 12:00 PM
Whatcha gonna do with that Esslinger head?:eyebrows:

Gearjamer
01-27-2007, 12:32 PM
I need to sell the Esslinger head (fully ported Iron head with roller convertin) the Child & Albert rods, forged pistons, total seal rings, ACR bearings, High volume oil pump, ARP studs for the head and main, and ARP bolts for the rods. I paid 1900 for everything. To keep the boss happy I'll let it go for 1500 cash. Any less and I would loose to much money. But I have two original 2.3 turbo heads, an original turbo, two intakes, two E6 exhausts, and two computers, and a turbo 2.3 short block. I would let it all go for 1800 cash. I also have a turbo coupe intercooler in excellent condition. A turbo coupe 5spd transmission, bell housing and hydrolic master and slave cylinder. The trans I would let go for 300 with the bellhousing. I also have Global West caster camber plates and a Trac-link set up for 79-93 Mustangs. Crazy Bill been told by the boss it's all gota go!:whip:

Tony Hanna
01-27-2007, 02:57 PM
On the Ford 2.3 I was thinking Megasquirt. Maybe I'll go that route now. I do have the Turbonetics Trim50 begging me for use. But if the motor is the original 177k lump the new stock Mitsu will probably pop it before long. Can't let the wife know. She thinks this is a light project. :eyebrows: That's why she gave me the green light. So I do have to keep it on the low. I just want to get it running right now. It will start but it barely idles and won't rev. The guy said he put a new turbo on because the other one was seized. After only a few miles it started behaving like it is currently. He thought it was vacuum lines or a bad signal from the transmission transducer. I've had this happen before on a 1980 Turbo Capri RS I had in High School. My sister over heated the car Cracked the head in 6 places and MELTED the turbo. I fixed it all and it never ran right again so I sold the car. Someone then asked: Did you change the catalitic converter? I think that was what has happend here. The old turbo started sucking oil trashed the converter, this guy buys the car on the cheap and thinks it's worth putting a new turbo on, it dosn't work so he sells it. I'll let you know what I find out today after I get the car home.

There are people here way better qualified than me to talk about picking the right turbo, but a 50 trim with a s3 turbine should do pretty well on a 2.5 especially with a little head work. You might want to lose that .48 turbine housing in favor of a .63 though. It's my understanding that the .48 really starts to hurt you over 270 hp.
You could go megasquirt if you wanted to, but both of the vendors can recalibrate a stock computer for pretty much any setup you would want to run. The software even exists to do it yourself if you're comfortable with that sort of thing.:thumb:
I wouldn't write the engine off as needing a rebuild just yet. Check all the usual stuff like oil pressure, compression, etc and see if everything is in spec. You'd be really surprised just how tough these little engines can be. Give us all the details on how it's running when you get it home and I'm confident someone here can point you in the right direction.

Gearjamer
01-27-2007, 07:02 PM
OK here are some pics and the current running condition of the car. The motor starts HARD, you have to work the gas and then it blows some black. It will not rev will only barely go above idle and if you give it too much gas it stalls. However, it seems smooth if you can keep it idling. The turbo is new. I think when the old one went it took the catalytic converter with it. I've had a couple of these fail and it seems like that. Some of the vacuum lines may be mis-routed. and there is an unplugged wire hanging under the motor. I'll try to take video later.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v315/Gearjamer/Daytona/DSCN5529.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v315/Gearjamer/Daytona/DSCN5527.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v315/Gearjamer/Daytona/DSCN5526.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v315/Gearjamer/Daytona/DSCN5532.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v315/Gearjamer/Daytona/DSCN5517.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v315/Gearjamer/Daytona/DSCN5516.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v315/Gearjamer/Daytona/DSCN5520.jpg

Thanks

Directconnection
01-27-2007, 08:09 PM
It's a T-I 2.5 with the tiny mitsu turbo. But no biggie, you want to replace the turbo anyways.

Good thing for you is that the T-II rad/intercooler setups can be found for sale on here dirt cheap. Or... get the rad and go with an aftermarket intercooler. Or... use the stocker with a front mount like what most people do.


Is it an auto? I couldn't see enough to tell...couldn't see a clutch cable from the pic. (edit...ah..I see just a corner of the filter pan..auto it is)

BTW.... the turbo you have for the Merkur won't bolt up to the Chrysler flange. But I belive you can redrilla and tap it to accept as it is one bolt difference I believe.

Car has been repainted, right?

Tony Hanna
01-28-2007, 12:02 AM
BTW.... the turbo you have for the Merkur won't bolt up to the Chrysler flange. But I belive you can redrilla and tap it to accept as it is one bolt difference I believe.


He mentioned in an earlier post that the turbo he has has a .48 turbine housing. Might be an ideal time to upgrade to a .63 housing with a Chrysler flange and solve 2 problems at once.:thumb:

Tony Hanna
01-28-2007, 12:29 AM
OK here are some pics and the current running condition of the car. The motor starts HARD, you have to work the gas and then it blows some black. It will not rev will only barely go above idle and if you give it too much gas it stalls. However, it seems smooth if you can keep it idling. The turbo is new. I think when the old one went it took the catalytic converter with it. I've had a couple of these fail and it seems like that. Some of the vacuum lines may be mis-routed. and there is an unplugged wire hanging under the motor. I'll try to take video later.
Thanks

I'm pretty sure your unplugged wire is for the ac compressor clutch but I'll have to compare on my car to be 100% sure. As for vacuum plumbing, these cars are really simple. The only things that have to be connected for the car to run properly are the map sensor/baro solenoid, the fuel pressure regulator, and some form of boost control wether it's the computer controled solenoid or a manual controller. So if you're worried about vacuum related problems, those are the critical areas.
To test your theory about the converter, you could simply unbolt the downpipe. Since the turbo has been replaced recently, it should be pretty easy to get off there.
Overall I have to say nice find! I definately don't think you got hurt any.

Gearjamer
01-28-2007, 09:33 PM
Ok here is what we checked so far. I unbolted the down pipe from the turbo. No change all though the pipe looked like it was 2.5 with mandrel bends all the way to the muffler where it looks to be choked down to 2.25. Is this normal? I tried to sort out the vacuum lines the best I could but I not only need a diagram which is on the hood but pic of all the locations for the components. The diagram shows 3 vac line on the compressor side of the turbo. 1 for boost control, 1 is labled turbo output, and one is labled turbo input but the diagram dose not show on the housing exactly which one of the 3 is where. I'm assuming the barb fitting that is right by the tube going to the intake is the one for boost control and the other barb on the compressor housing is the turbo output. I've not found the turbo input barb.

None of the test we made change anything. The car will start right up with a new batt the idles realy low like 500 rpm. IT DOSE NOT RESPONT TO THE THROTTLE. If you put and hold the throttle a few seconds later the engine speed with rise but never abover 1800 rpm even at full throttle. I want to test the throttle position sensor. Also the gauge in the car shows no vac. One other issues is the digital dash it's on even when the key is off. I think there is a switch issue. I don't know if that would cause my other issues but I need a full schmatic of the car.

Darkwolf
01-29-2007, 01:34 AM
Have you ran the codes yet?
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/fault/index.html

Tony Hanna
01-29-2007, 02:57 AM
Check out the repair info section on autozone's website. They have the schematics in the chassis electrical section for free.

Gearjamer
01-29-2007, 09:08 PM
Thanks I checked the web sight and got some good info. Here is the issue I have very little vacuum. Even when I disconnect the turbo. The turbo is always blowing. A good amount I might add. Any suggestions. It won't rev above 1800rpm.

Tony Hanna
01-29-2007, 09:29 PM
The turbo blowing at idle is normal with the little mitsubishi.
As for your running problem... Lets see, not pulling very good vacuum, won't rev, and it's not a clogged cat. If it was me, I'd check the cam timing next.

WickedShelby88
01-29-2007, 11:57 PM
From your symptom description and the timing cover missing definitely sounds like timing. Nice interior in that one with the digi dash, 12 button navigator and even the "good" infinity 1 sound system that lasts longer than most of the others..You definitely found a clean tona and at a good price.. If timing is off you're closer. If not, try dropping a cylinder at a time and see if you lose power. Use the the connectors on the injectors to do this to minimize the risk of excess fuel. Above all check your cam timing first. Its possible ,though,the dist. timing may be way off but not likely. I believe the torque converter can bolt up two ways potentially throwing the mark off when you use a timing light, but don't quote me on that. Let us know what you find.. I know of a few more tricks to narrow down the culprit if that doesn't help.

Gearjamer
01-30-2007, 03:45 PM
I checked the timing marks on the cam and aux shaft. The cam looks to be on or very close to close to call it bad, the aux is hard to tell. I didn't pull off the drive belts for the accessories so I can't see the crank pully mark. But the aut drives just the dist right. Even if its 1/2 a tooth off if the timing is right on dist it shouldn't cause my issue. Again the car starts goes to an almost normal idle when cold then after a few min the idle drops. It will not rev up. If you touch the gas it will respond but very slowly and never get above 1800-2k rpm. The MAP sensor has been replaced. and I'm not getting a code for it. When I diconnect it the car stalls.

Tony Hanna
01-30-2007, 10:36 PM
I wonder what the chance is that somebody replaced the map sensor with the wrong part? Running a TBI map on a turbo car could do some really screwy stuff. 5 volts for the TBI sensor works out to 0" of vac while 5 volts on the turbo sensor works out to 15 psi of boost. In theory a TBI map sensor would cause it to overfuel because at 0" of vac the computer would be trying to fuel for full boost (or hitting overboost cutout). This could be the cause of your slow/no rev condition. It might be worth a try to swap out the map sensor and see if that straightens it out.

WickedShelby88
02-01-2007, 11:47 PM
You also should check the TPS and the AIS. either one of those can cause some of the same things as well as an EGR valve stuck open..

tryingbe
02-02-2007, 12:05 AM
The oil pan is for a 2.2L common block.

Either someobody replace the block with a 2.2L short block or somebody took out the balance shaft and put a 2.2L oil pan on. You want to find out if it is 2.2L or 2.5L.

If the enigne is 2.2L and it's using 2.5L computer, it is running rich all the time..

Gearjamer
02-02-2007, 01:45 AM
I made another thread "I fixed it". It was mostly the timing. By my estimates it was set at 20 to 30 deg ATDC. I don't even know how the car ran. The car dose seem to be running rich. Where should I look to verify the engine is 2.2 or 2.5. The car has 177k on it. The compression is suppost to be good in all cylinders. I have not verified this but will this weekend. It is quite possible that another short block was put in the car. I'm pulling the valve cover off this weekend to replace the gasket at that point I will check for a roller cam. They guy I got it from said there was no oil supply plummed to the turbo and the original turbo was siezed up. He had to get a fitting for the front of the block on the drivers side of the water box to plum an oil feed. In the pic's it also looks like some one welded in a oil return for the turbo. Is this normal. Or did someone put a NA block in this thing and make the turbo set up work. That would bum me out. Here is a pic of the oil pan and turbo oil return on the back side

Thanks again.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v315/Gearjamer/Daytona/DSCN5531.jpg

Darkwolf
02-02-2007, 05:01 AM
Yeah thats not the norm
http://users.marshall.edu/~kessler8/van/engine/engine.html
Lots pics from when I did my shortblock rebuild. The big tube sticking out of the back of the block is the oil return.

Hard to say whats going on with yours. The non-turbo and turbo blocks are the same other then the oil return but the guts are different.

Gearjamer
02-02-2007, 08:16 AM
Dark,

Thanks for the pic's! It gives me something to look for. This car was bought at auction and then sold to the couple I got it from. Who know what's been done to it. Here's a question. The timing belt crank pully has a spacer on top of it. Is that part of the gear/pully or a sperate piece. Do I need to pull it off to check the timing marks when changing the timing belt? On mine it looks like there is a timing mark on that spacer but it's way off when I was taking off the old belt and lining things up. I believe the motor to be at TDC by the timing marks on the bellhousing.

Thanks
-Bill

Tony Hanna
02-02-2007, 12:51 PM
I'm not sure about the spacer you're talking about. It's been awhile since I've done a timing belt. There's a pretty good how-to with a diagram on Gary's site. I used it as a reference the last time I r&r'd one and everything went smoothly.
http://www.thedodgegarage.com/timing_belt.html
HTH,

capev86
02-02-2007, 01:14 PM
1990 and newer used the 523 & 568 instead of the 520 & 555. in 89 top of the line shelby was the 2.2 T2 with the 555. by 91 the 2.2 turbo was gone (except for the 16 valve rt motor) so the top of the line shebly/iroc had the 2.5T1 w/ high torque programming (allows full boost at low rpm) and the bad boy 568 tranny.

i have seen a couple 91 datyona shelbys on ebay, etc. they are very desirable because they have the best of everything. all you need to do is add an intercooler and you'd have an awesome car!

Gearjamer
02-02-2007, 02:06 PM
OK, I'm confused. It's been said that the oil pan I have is for a 2.2l motor. As I look at the block I have the CB. There is no fuel pump block off. I also have the coolant line return on the passenger, firewall side of the motor. However, I don't have the normal oil return for the turbo. I have a tube welded into the oil pan just below where the normal oil return would be. When I look to see if there is a blocked off or unused oil return on the block all I see is the starter. The head casting is 4104782. But that dosen't tell me if its a turbo head or not, just a fast burn. Is there any other way besides tearing down the motor to see, for sure, that this is indeed a turbo motor and not a cheap engine swap because the other one blew. They guy I got the car from didn't seem to be familar with these cars and had to hook a new turbo up with the other one completely trashed. There is a new oil pan gasket on the car but I didn't know enof to ask if this was the original oil pan. Thanks for the help.

tryingbe
02-02-2007, 03:17 PM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v315/Gearjamer/Daytona/DSCN5531.jpg[/QUOTE]

It's probably an n/a short block...

Gearjamer
02-02-2007, 06:54 PM
Even with the coolant return line in the right place? I'm thinking I may have to drop the oil pan, check the stroke, and look at the rods. The 2.5l is the only one with the balance shafts too, right? I'll look for those or the chain drive gear on the crank.

Gearjamer
02-02-2007, 08:44 PM
More pic's as I try to figure out what motor is in this car. Here is the first pic, backside of the motor from timing belt to tranny. I see no oil return tube. Just a home made one that goes to the provision on the oil pan.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v315/Gearjamer/Daytona/DSCN5543.jpg

Here is the second pic towards the front of the engine (timing belt end). It shows a water return fitting.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v315/Gearjamer/Daytona/DSCN5541.jpg

Here is another interesting questiong. Shouldn't an '89 Shelby have equal length drive shafts?
PASSENGER
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v315/Gearjamer/Daytona/DSCN5536.jpg

DRIVER
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v315/Gearjamer/Daytona/DSCN5539.jpg

I'm at a loss. Could this be a N/A block rebuilt for a turbo? I feel like I'm Pi$$ing in the wind.

Output shaft housing for the passenger side has an 89 stamped in it. Could this be the year?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v315/Gearjamer/Daytona/DSCN5549.jpg

Gearjamer
02-05-2007, 10:36 PM
Last word from me on this thread. Apparently atleast the short block is a NA 2.2:( I went over to another enthusiest house to look at some '89 turbo 2.5s and a NA 2.5 in an Omni. ALL blocks have the water return on the back of the block at lease the common blocks. It's just plugged if it's a NA car. However, not all have the turbo oil return. It was also noted that the oil pans are diffrent. Someone thought that my balence shafts were removed and an old oil pan put on. Well the Omni had the exact same pan.

Good note is on the way home I stopped by the U-pull it yard and found a Shadow ES 2.5t auto with 127k on the clock. I pulled that motor and trans. I will clean them up and use them. Just as cool I found a '98 Caravan with a 2.4liter 16v twin cam. Pulled the head and manifolds. So I will take the 2.2 NA common block that's in the car now and build it with the right parts for a 16v hybred. I post another thread in the hybred section with pic's

Thanks for all the help guys!!

Bill

BadAssPerformance
02-05-2007, 11:01 PM
2.5L turbo car with an automatic could be an unequal length axle from the factory.

Being an N/A block, does not mean that it is an N/A motor. Could just be an N/A block with turbo components inside. Get a picture of the casting date on the back of the block for us and also do a compression check making sure that the cam timing is dead on beforehand.

Although it appears that you have a 2.2L CB oil pan it could be a 2.5L w/o balance shafts or some sort of franken-motor like a 2.5L tall block with 2.2L crank ;)

cordes
02-05-2007, 11:23 PM
I think that someone already mentioned it, but the wire that was hanging down was most certainly for the AC, and you don't need it for anything except the AC to work properly.