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johnl
01-18-2007, 04:10 AM
I stopped by my body and paint guy today and showed him my clear coat problems. Short of re-painting, he says he can't really do much for it. I just don't want to believe it.

So - what's to be done to improve the finish without repainting? Buffing, color sanding, then clear coat?

Help.

WVRampage
01-18-2007, 08:33 AM
Its pretty bad I dont think there is much you could do for it other than repainting,maby if the base isnt to far gone you could have some clear sprayed on over it but most likly it wouldnt look right.

Mopar_Nutz
01-18-2007, 12:20 PM
I was just talking to my girlfriend about this yesterday since she's currently in school for autobody and paint. She basically said that the standard practice is to strip off the remaining clear, rough up the paint, new paint and clear. Or if you're paying for a good paint job. As usual....strip to metal and respray.

I went through all kinds of work trying to get some gloss out of my Spirit but short colour sanding and LOADING it with polish (keeping it up almost weekly) it's just gonna fade right out again. A new paint job is pretty much the only proper fix.

Mario
01-18-2007, 01:32 PM
Nice ebay find. :D :D

2.216VTurbo
01-18-2007, 02:12 PM
I stopped by my body and paint guy today and showed him my clear coat problems. Short of re-painting, he says he can't really do much for it. I just don't want to believe it.

So - what's to be done to improve the finish without repainting? Buffing, color sanding, then clear coat?

Help.

My Bro used to work at a shop that would do a 'scuff and shoot' for damaged clearcoat systems. It was affordable but if you looked close you could see the edges of the old peeling clear...

Don't you want to make that car faster before it gets all pretty?:D

Anonymous_User
01-19-2007, 01:09 PM
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7622


It's a lot of work, but it can be made to look "decent". Will it last? Don't know yet.

My hood looked absolutely HORRIBLE before I started on it. Should have got some before pics.

I still need to do the top behing the T-tops, but it'll have to wait until warmer weather now.

ShelbyZD
01-19-2007, 10:27 PM
My bro just used a few can's of the automotive spray paint. Since the rest of the car (like yours) isn't terribly shiney anways.. it should match up pretty good.

A high quality buffing job would definatly improve the looks quite a bit.. but anywhere the clearcoat is badely damaged or missing.. it naturally won't do much good.

johnl
01-20-2007, 02:28 AM
My Bro used to work at a shop that would do a 'scuff and shoot' for damaged clearcoat systems. It was affordable but if you looked close you could see the edges of the old peeling clear...

Don't you want to make that car faster before it gets all pretty?:D

Yeah, T2 conversion has commenced - parts acquisition stage. :nod: The driver's side front strut is shot, so manana the struts and shocks that came out of my 70,000 mile GLHT will replace the Charger's 130,000 units. The car has +20 injectors so, in the meantime, the g valve I ordered from TU will be fine.

It just bugs me, :mad: the car is straight, the paint would be pretty darn good if it weren't for the clear coat.

What exactly is "scuff and shoot?" Sand paper and clear coat?

johnl
01-20-2007, 02:37 AM
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7622


It's a lot of work, but it can be made to look "decent". Will it last? Don't know yet.

My hood looked absolutely HORRIBLE before I started on it. Should have got some before pics.

I still need to do the top behing the T-tops, but it'll have to wait until warmer weather now.

Looked at your thread - nice job.:thumb:
I have two tone with vinyl stripes separating the colors :yuck:
Are you going to put clear coat on top of your wet sanded color coat?
Seems like that ought to make it good as new; guess the trick is to wet sand all of the clear coat off while NOT cutting through the color coat?

Does the clear coat go over vinyl stripes and lettering and such?

Anonymous_User
01-20-2007, 02:13 PM
The clear does not go over vinyl stripes and what not. Makes it kind of tough.

Yes, a coat of clear over what I did would help it last, but it's really a 20 footer. It is 10,000% better than it was, but it isn't perfect. So, it will do for me just fine.

I wet sand the clear off and CUT into the color just a bit. Then finer and finer on the color followed by a buff.

johnl
01-20-2007, 11:21 PM
The engine and trans and k frame and rack on this car were all greasy:yuck: so I bagged up the electric bits and hit the engine compartment with degreaser and the pressure washer - yikes I hope it'll be OK :wow1: Then the WD-40 to dry the electric bits and TAADAAH she started - all is well post bath.

While I was at it I thought "Maybe the pressure washer will gey under the bubbled clear coat and tear it off. TA DAA:D

It also removes that thin gray primerish looking clearcoat remnant that sits on top of the colorcoat. :thumb:

Gotta take care to stay away from the taped stripes and lettering though.:( It's tricky, once the surface gets wet it is hard to see where the bad primerish clearcoat is, :yuck: so you have to work from wet area to dry area. :nod:

I'll go at it again tomorrow and maybe I'll be able to post some before and after pics.