Installed S1 cam last night.

[turbovanman²]

Engine, 2.5L bored .020", fully ported with +1mm valves, log header, ported 2 piece intake, 3inch ex, Magnaflow, cat, 52mm t/b, small intercooler, T3/T4, 50 trim comp, .63 a/r and stage III wheel.

Mixed reviews. Using Gary D's adjustable cam sprocket, had the stocker at full advance on the sprocket to make my Stage 3 turbo spool. Had good power at 12 psi, good enough until the new IC gets installed. Anyhow, put the S1 in straight up, off boost, not bad, the low end response is great and peppier but on boost, its weaker. Power stops dead at 5000 rpm, stocker at least revved to 6000 rpm. Will try advancing and retarding to see what happens, :thumb:

[cordes]

Keep us updated with your chronicles of the cam. I am quite excited that we may be getting some newer fancy cams for our cars that will have some serious R&D into them.:thumb:

[Bossman429]

Gary D's adjustable cam sprocket
Is this an alternative to the Fidanza unit from FWD-P?
More info please....I am considering getting an adjustable cam to advance it a bit, my power hits a wall at 4000 RPM or so, and I am wiling to bet it is a cam timing issue.


Don't mean to take anything away from your cam thread, just curious if there is another spocket to consider.

[turbovanman²]

Is this an alternative to the Fidanza unit from FWD-P?
More info please....I am considering getting an adjustable cam to advance it a bit, my power hits a wall at 4000 RPM or so, and I am wiling to bet it is a cam timing issue.


Don't mean to take anything away from your cam thread, just curious if there is another spocket to consider.


Based on what I have seen around, there basically all the same, just different ideas on how to do it. They do work, with my stock cam, I can't get my turbo to spool so I advanced it until I liked it, takes seconds vs using cam keys.

[glhs875]

Engine, 2.5L bored .020", fully ported with +1mm valves, log header, ported 2 piece intake, 3inch ex, Magnaflow, cat, 52mm t/b, small intercooler, T3/T4, 50 trim comp, .63 a/r and stage III wheel.

Mixed reviews. Using Gary D's adjustable cam sprocket, had the stocker at full advance on the sprocket to make my Stage 3 turbo spool. Had good power at 12 psi, good enough until the new IC gets installed. Anyhow, put the S1 in straight up, off boost, not bad, the low end response is great and peppier but on boost, its weaker. Power stops dead at 5000 rpm, stocker at least revved to 6000 rpm. Will try advancing and retarding to see what happens, :thumb:

You definitely don't have it dialed in right. I ran an 8.59 @ 82mph on pure street tires in my stock GLHS with that cam. I also went 8.22 @ 93mph on DOT's in my 2850# Daytona. It will pull to 6000rpm if it's dialed in right.

[turbovanman²]

You definitely don't have it dialed in right. I ran an 8.59 @ 82mph on pure street tires in my stock GLHS with that cam. I also went 8.22 @ 93mph on DOT's in my 2850# Daytona. It will pull to 6000rpm if it's dialed in right.

Well, the marks are all lined up so Hmmmmmmmm. Will recheck with my timing light tonight.

And like I said, going to play with the advance and retard of the cam to see what happens.

[contraption22]

On a 2.5, don't expect much power with any cam above 5000rpm. Not much above 5500 with a 2.2.

[turbovanman²]

On a 2.5, don't expect much power with any cam above 5000rpm. Not much above 5500 with a 2.2.

Even with a big turbo and big --- ported head, :eyebrows:

[deuce dodge]

DOG!!!!!!!!!!

quit wasting time with those big blocks and start working on the 2.2 cam.............:)

deuce

[turbovanman²]

Well, don't I feel stupid, :( Had it one tooth out. My only excuse is its hard to read the gear as the strut bar is in the way. Anyhow, rechecked everything and Steve is right, the cam is out 2 1/2 degs retarded, not 4 like I had said.

Anyhow, gave it 2 deg advance and drove home, much better, pulls to 6300 rpm, yellow on my dawes light and 1500 degs at 12psi. Throttle response is a tad better than the stocker. The boost seems more linear, the stock cam was more hit then mellow, this comes on and pulls evenly to 6300, pretty cool. Going still play with cam timing. Oh, I felt my intake after doing some WOT runs, very cold, that RX7 IC sure works well for that. Its around 7 deg C outside.

[Frank]

Great news!

[Frank]

Is this an alternative to the Fidanza unit from FWD-P?
More info please....I am considering getting an adjustable cam to advance it a bit, my power hits a wall at 4000 RPM or so, and I am wiling to bet it is a cam timing issue.


Don't mean to take anything away from your cam thread, just curious if there is another spocket to consider.

Have you used a scanner when it hits the 4000rpms? Is it saying you have not retard? Have you double checked your timing? Both of those can make it fall on its face.


Frank

[glhs875]

Well, don't I feel stupid, :( Had it one tooth out. My only excuse is its hard to read the gear as the strut bar is in the way. Anyhow, rechecked everything and Steve is right, the cam is out 2 1/2 degs retarded, not 4 like I had said.

Anyhow, gave it 2 deg advance and drove home, much better, pulls to 6300 rpm, yellow on my dawes light and 1500 degs at 12psi. Throttle response is a tad better than the stocker. The boost seems more linear, the stock cam was more hit then mellow, this comes on and pulls evenly to 6300, pretty cool. Going still play with cam timing. Oh, I felt my intake after doing some WOT runs, very cold, that RX7 IC sure works well for that. Its around 7 deg C outside.

I hear the sausage frying now!!

[glhs875]

Well, don't I feel stupid, :( Had it one tooth out. My only excuse is its hard to read the gear as the strut bar is in the way. Anyhow, rechecked everything and Steve is right, the cam is out 2 1/2 degs retarded, not 4 like I had said.

Anyhow, gave it 2 deg advance and drove home, much better, pulls to 6300 rpm, yellow on my dawes light and 1500 degs at 12psi. Throttle response is a tad better than the stocker. The boost seems more linear, the stock cam was more hit then mellow, this comes on and pulls evenly to 6300, pretty cool. Going still play with cam timing. Oh, I felt my intake after doing some WOT runs, very cold, that RX7 IC sure works well for that. Its around 7 deg C outside.

That's a very good descripition of my findings. And it is very responsive to high boost!

[turbovanman²]

That's a very good descripition of my findings. And it is very responsive to high boost!

Driving to work, doesn't seem to pull as hard at low boost-more linear as noted so we'll play somemore during the next few weeks. Seems to run smoother though and more vacuum when cruising. I have a good test route, I have taken the same way to and from work for the last 7 years, :thumb:

[Bossman429]

Have you used a scanner when it hits the 4000rpms? Is it saying you have not retard? Have you double checked your timing? Both of those can make it fall on its face.


Frank
I am planning to check ignition timing this weekend, co-worker just bought an adance timing light that we want to play with. I have a suspicion, that it could be off slightly.

I will also plan on running a scanner on it to verify the knock concern, although I don't think that would be happening. If though, it is, what can cause the knock retard? I would think that would go hand in hand with ignition timing again. I run 91 octane in the car, and am running anywhere from 14-16 PSI depending on weather and temp.
I have an adj zener diode to accomplish > 14.7.

The cam timing has been checked over and over, and all line up, but that isn't to say that the notches and such are entirely accurate. Doesn't you cam timing retard 4 degrees if the head is milled?

I don't mean to hijack Simon's thread or anything, but we are kind of in a similar boat, I guess.:D

[Bossman429]

A little more info:
I went out an took the g-valve out in place of a vac line.
Running min PSI of 7-10 it pulled al the way up to the rev limiter, at least it felt like it to me, a drop from 15 to 8 PSI slows it down a bunch, but romping on it, it still seemed to have a lot past 4 grand unlike before.

I'll have to get a scanner on it for sure now. What can I do if I am running knock retard after 4K?.....Besides turning down the boost.

[turbovanman²]

I'll have to get a scanner on it for sure now. What can I do if I am running knock retard after 4K?.....Besides turning down the boost.

Reduce your base timing, I was getting part throttle ping so I dropped it to 10 deg and all is good.

You can also play with cam timing as well.

[Bossman429]

Do you recall what your base timing was with the ping?
I think spec on the system is 12 + or - 2 Correct?

[turbovanman²]

Do you recall what your base timing was with the ping?
I think spec on the system is 12 + or - 2 Correct?

I had my base set at 12 degs. :nod:

[Directconnection]

The cam timing has been checked over and over, and all line up, but that isn't to say that the notches and such are entirely accurate. Doesn't you cam timing retard 4 degrees if the head is milled?


As Simon found out, it's not that hard to have the cam off a tooth.
As I mentioned in another post last night, set your flywheel to the 0 mark on the bellhousing to ensure proper TDC without actually using a dial gauge. Check to make sure the distributor drive gear is parrallel (9 and 3) to the block as this will tell you your intermediate shaft is on time as well.

But for the actual camshaft and the sprocket...I use a small mirror or wide shiny putty knife to reflect the cam's position with the cylinder head's cam cap parting lines. Holding it square will give you a more accurate reading of what is really happening instead of sighting off to the side (proximity effect it's called) and thinking it's right on. Works for me:)

[turbovanman²]

As Simon found out, it's not that hard to have the cam off a tooth.
As I mentioned in another post last night, set your flywheel to the 0 mark on the bellhousing to ensure proper TDC without actually using a dial gauge. Check to make sure the distributor drive gear is parrallel (9 and 3) to the block as this will tell you your intermediate shaft is on time as well.

But for the actual camshaft and the sprocket...I use a small mirror or wide shiny putty knife to reflect the cam's position with the cylinder head's cam cap parting lines. Holding it square will give you a more accurate reading of what is really happening instead of sighting off to the side (proximity effect it's called) and thinking it's right on. Works for me:)


Personally, using the distributor can give you false readings, especically if the previous owner has got the mesh wrong on the teeth and had to move the distributor alot to compensate.

I usually do this but the other night, I was tired but anyhow, after you take off the cam sprocket, get a marker and mark the center of the valve cover behind the sprocket and up on top, you will find this is inbetween the 2 top ribs. Then Mark you cam gear at the back the same way. Then assemble and you can't get it wrong, well maybe, hehehehehe.

[John B]

I draw a line with a thin black marker at the cam cap parting line so it's easier to see with the mirror.

[turbovanman²]

Another update, advanced the cam 2-3 degrees, hard to see exactly but I like it more. Its got more off power boost and the boost hits harder and pulls harder to 6300 when it upshifts, it chirped the tires from 1st-2nd. I am really starting to like this cam. Will try some more advance and then retard it to see the results. Man, I love adjustable cam gears, worth every penny. :amen:

[John B]

Did you put the old lifters back in for the S-1? How much shim did you use for the cam? I was told .046" shim with stock lifters for the S-1, but others have said they didn't need any shim.

[glhs875]

Did you put the old lifters back in for the S-1? How much shim did you use for the cam? I was told .046" shim with stock lifters for the S-1, but others have said they didn't need any shim.

you can use it with no shims. But I think some top end performance could be gained with some shims, as the lifters are extended alot. We really need to use an adjustable valvetrain or solid adjustable lifters to get the most out of regriund cams.
BTW, since I got an S3 cam, and that's what I will be using because I like it alot, I have an S1 cam for sale if any one is interested.

[Khajjathefang]

anybody used the 475 as well as an s1/2? im wondering how they compare and if i should switch up

[turbovanman²]

Did you put the old lifters back in for the S-1? How much shim did you use for the cam? I was told .046" shim with stock lifters for the S-1, but others have said they didn't need any shim.

I answered in your TD thread but this is what I did, before removing the stock cam, I removed a few rocker arms so the cam would sit flat, then looked at the bearing gap-lower. I then put the S1 in and it sat a bit lower, being curious, I put one shim in under the PT lifter, for a total of 3. The lifter oil hole is still sitting below the top of the bore but just slightly. I put the S1 cam back on and it sat a bit higher than the stocker. Bolted it up and runs perfect, in fact, the valve train is even quieter than before :eek: I know, its not very scientific but hey, it worked for me, lol!

[John B]

OK, thanks. I used lash caps when I ran the S-1, but I don't like that kind of extreme geometry on the rocker, and I never got the setup running quietly. When I had to tear the engine back down to re-ring it I put a stock cam back in just to eliminate one irritation. I really want to use the S-1 though because I believe it's a great cam.

[85glht]

But for the actual camshaft and the sprocket...I use a small mirror or wide shiny putty knife to reflect the cam's position with the cylinder head's cam cap parting lines. Holding it square will give you a more accurate reading of what is really happening instead of sighting off to the side (proximity effect it's called) and thinking it's right on. Works for me:)

+1. Much easier way:thumb:

[MiniMopar]

+1 on that too. Parallax effect I think is what you meant. ;)

[turbovanman²]

I had it at aprox 8 degs advanced so I decided to retard the cam, 4 deg. Holy sh*t, what a dog. It was sooooooo gutless it was unreal, at some throttle openings, the turbo wouldn't spool and it just bogged badly. I advanced it back but went to around 10 deg, woo hoo, its getting better the more I advance it. It runs sooooooo good at 10, will drive around for a few days and try somemore, :thumb:

[bn880]

Cool, that's basically 1 tooth of advance...

bn880 makes personal note; advance CAM by 1 tooth when prepping car. :thumb:

[contraption22]

Anybody ever compare the S1 cam to a stock turbo cam at HIGH boost (25psi-up)? I'd be curious to see hard numbers.

[turbovanman²]

Mike, when I get some cash, I am going back to the dyno so if I get time, i will try the stocker and S1 at high boost. Of course, this is when I get my IC installed, just seem to run out of time these days, :(



Cool, that's basically 1 tooth of advance...

bn880 makes personal note; advance CAM by 1 tooth when prepping car.

Remember, every car/van is different. For some reason, my van likes the cam advanced. I would recommend you start straight up and see how it runs. Others have retarded the cam and gone faster.

[bn880]

Oh yes I know. Thanks :thumb: