TM needs your engine setup info!

[Directconnection]

Many of you should have seen the newly implemented Knowledge Center by now. If not, scroll up to the top and check it out! In the never ending quest to expand the info for all of the forum members, we are hoping to add another section devoted soley to key areas of a particular engine combination to attain certain performance goals. (ie: whp or ET)

Lately, I myself, have read alot of threads where people are asking for advice on 250, 300, 350, etc whp goals. And while everyone tries to be very helpful, not everyone sees things eye to eye. So, with your help, if you can post present or past engine/drivetrain combos with ET and/or WHP results, that will be extremelly helpful as this will allow me and others to see the commonly agreed upon hardware for a particular output.

Feel free to list out your setups in detail, and also, please *DON'T FORGET* your raceweight, auto/stick, boost level and fuel setup along with BOOST vs. RPM info as well. (LAG etc..)

14 second ride... or 8 second ride... doesn't matter. We will all learn from this.

Also, please refrain from coulda/shoulda posts... I know even I have a few of those:) We need "factual data" KJS tm

[Directconnection]

Here's one that I will start with. It's an example that I have mentioned a few times. Sorry I have to put you through this.... 1990 VNT Shadow swap to
T-II.

* '90 VNT common block w/cast crank and stock bore mahles.
* Stock rods sized w/arps.
* Block line honed, decked a few thousandths just to clean up.
* 782 TBI head converted w/782 turbo hardware (stock valves/springs, etc) milled flat w/valve job and new guides. Porting by me with "ok" cfm gains (head had alot of core shift). MP gasket and bolts.
* '89 T-I cam and RP adjustable cam gear (the ones me and a friend used to make)
* Stock new melling oil pump w/block passage massaged
* '90 1-piece intake opened up to 52mm TB and using stock rail w/no mods. Manifold had the backs of the runners welded and the inner humps removed.
* T-II exhaust manifold ported by the new owner along with the 2-1/2" SW
* Full 3" mandrel exhaust... no cat. Straight through mufler.
* AFPR turned down to 49psi base.
* FWDP S5 3-bar cal. w/+40s.
* Stock T-II intercooler (blah... I know)
* 555 tranny w/posi insert
* S60 turbo (S60 compressor wheel, .63 A/R turbine housing)
* Stock ORIGINAL fuel pump.
* Pump gas 93 and stock ignition
* Turbo XS H BOV
* 46mm TB

Car was tuned on a Dynocom by the new owner and have been told by a few people that they report #s a bit lower than dynojets, etc.

Results: 20psi boost, 271 whp.

Full boost at 3,500 rpms.

Large NPR cooler install should be happening in the spring and this along with a couple more psi should easily put this combo over the 300whp mark (along with the 255lph they just picked up) Ooops... I made a shoulda/woulda! :eyebrows:

[powermaxx]

Feel free to list out your setups in detail, and also, don't forget your raceweight, auto/stick, boost and fuel setup info as well.

14 second ride... or 8 second ride... doesn't matter. We will all learn from this.

KJS tm

Sounds good but if you're going to list specifics you really need "Altitude/Humidity/Temperature" as part of it. (Density altitude or Corrected altitude would be best. (I race at 5800ft actual but the corrected altitude is usually about 9000ft on a "Good" day.)


There's "Trial Software" for those who don't keep it handy unless you are always racing at "Sea Level" :D .)

[BadAssPerformance]

ENGINE (block/internals/bolt-ons)
'87 2.2L Turbo I Long Block out of Shelby Lancer (stock)
FM Steel Underdrive Pulley
BadAssPerformance Solid Front Motor Mount
DRIVETRAIN (Trans/Diff type/FD-ratio/axles/etc)
A-555 Transaxle (3.50:1) with OBX Torque Biasing Differential
'87 Equal length turbo axles
INDUCTION (head/intake/TB/IC/IC pipe size/bov/etc)
'87 2.2L Turbo II Head
'87 slider turbo cam (centerlined to stock makrs)
'87 2.2L Turbo II 2-pc intake (stock and not cut to fit 52mm TB)
52mm Throttle Body
1/8" plastic TB/intake spacer with slight bevel filed on it
BadAssPerformance Smooth Pipe Kit (IC to TB only, stock lower IC hose)
FM 2.5" pipe Powerstack Air Filter
'87 Daytona Shelby Z Radiator/Intercooler (Stock)
Turbonetics (Bosch) Street Blow Off Valve
BadAssPerformance (Grainger style) Boost Controller
TURBO & EXHAUST (turbo/exhasut pipe size/type/muffler
'87 2.2L Turbo II Exhaust manifold (stock)
'87 2.2L Turbo II Garret T03 Turbo (stock)
Stock 2.25" swingvalve into stock 2.25" downpipe
3" muffler shop bent system from downpipe to rear
3" Dynomax Race Magnum Oval Muffler - stock location
No converter
FUEL INJECTION (injectors/pump/regualtor/rail)
Mopar Performance 42#/hr (+20%) Fuel Injectors
DMS Adjustable Fuel pressure Regulator (Set to stock fuel pressue)
100 Octane Sunoco / Cam 2 Unleaded
ELECTRONICS & IGNITION (computer/cal/ignition)
Mopar Performance CSX Stage II Computer
Champion RN9YC Plugs (.035 gap)
Magnecor KV100 Race Ignition Wires
MSD 6-AL Box
MSD Blaster 3 Coil
CHASSIS & SUSPENSION (shocks/struts/springs/bars/etc)
Koni Struts & Shocks
Mopar Performance Road Race Springs
ROLLERS (wheels/tires)
23" M&H Racemaster Slicks
25" Moroso DS-2 Skinnies
Bogart 15x8" and 15x3.5" Drag-On-Fly Stars
WEIGHT REDUCTION (unbolted and/or cut-off)
Remove Power Steering Pump & Belt / Hoses looped together
Removed A/C components under the hood
BadAssPerformance 'Modified' Alternator Bracket
Removed Spare Tire
Removed charcoal canister

TRACK RESULTS
Best time@mph: 12.89 @ 104.5mph
Boost: 19psi (launch at 5000 rpm, full boost by 60' mark)
Race weight: ??? FULL Interior & FULL Exhaust
Track: Great Lakes Gragaway - Union Grove, WI (Altitude ???)
Temp: Approx 70*F
Barometer: ???

DYNO RESULTS
Dyno WHP: ???
Dyno WTQ: ???
Temp: ???
Barometer: ???

[Frank]

1991 Dodge Daytona Shelby

Stock Engine
Stock Intake Manifold and Exhaust Header
T3/T04E 50trim Turbo with T3 Cover
2.5" Large Swingvalve
3" Exhaust, no cat.
Cummins Intercooler
255l/hr pump
52lb/hr injectors with AFPR
413 tranny with extra clutches
RP SevereDuty TQ
RP Calibration
Slicks on Crab Wheels

13.08s@105mph at ~25psi.

Above was done at SDAC-13 under the previous owner, Andy.


Frank

[Directconnection]

Frank, you forgot to mention boost level.

Would like to see people post what rpm you see full boost at, as well. For the 2.2 car I posted about, it was approx. 3,500 I was told, but looking at the torque peak.... looks a bit higher possibly. I'll verify. See the dyno result here:

[ssheen]

88 Daytona Shelby Z 2.2L

Stock turbo
eBay FMIC (http://www.sheenconsulting.com/car/pics/fmic.JPG)
3" SV
3" Mandrel exhaust (http://www.sheenconsulting.com/car/pics/exhaustpipe1.JPG)
Cone Filter (http://www.sheenconsulting.com/car/pics/ConeFilter.JPG)
D-Valve (http://www.sheenconsulting.com/car/pics/Dvalve.JPG)
G-Valve MBC
No cat
Hooker Muffler (http://www.sheenconsulting.com/car/pics/muffler.JPG)
.20 over
Back cut valves / 3 angle
88 tbi cam
PT Lifters
Matched opened exhaust mani by me
Local shop mild port on the head
Underdrive pulley
Opened oil pick up
Cleaned up flow for water pump
RR adjustable cam gear (http://www.sheenconsulting.com/car/pics/adjustablecamgear2.jpg) - stock setting
AFPR - 54
Magnecor 8mm wires - with short coil wire
Crane Fireball coil
Modified AC 64 Spark Plugs (http://www.supersonicspark.com/)
12 degrees timing
Crank Case Evac Kit

May 2006
Eval - ~2500FT
Dyno temp ~20+C
Dyno - 195whp / 213 wtq @ 10-11psi (http://www.sheenconsulting.com/car/pics/May7Dyno.jpg)
Max Torque at ~2800RPM
Max WHP at ~5300RPM
No track times

April 2005 - Different dyno out of bus.
8 degree timing
Stock IC
No D-valve
@ 10 psi at 2750 rpm creeping to ~12psi at 4800rpm - 188WHP and 192Ft/Lbs
@ 10 psi at 2850 rpm creeping to ~12psi at 4900rpm - 190WHP and 192Ft/Lbs
@ 12+ psi at 2850 rpm creeping to ~13.8psi at 4500rpm - 198WHP and 196Ft/Lbs (overboostcutout )
@ 10 psi at 2900 rpm creeping to ~12+psi at 5250rpm - 180WHP and 170Ft/Lbs (not sure what changed)
@ 5 psi at 2750 rpm creeping to 8psi at 4750rpm - 135WHP and 140Ft/Lbs
@ 7 psi at 2750 rpm creeping to ~8psi at 4000rpm - 140WHP and 150Ft/Lbs

[crazy1eye]

1985 Dodge Shelby charger
2850lbs full interior, 3/4 tank gas & me

'88 T2 block .040" over
JE pistons
Sealed Power rings
Clevite 77 bearings
ARP bolts
FM steel underdrive pulley
stock oil pump matched to block
MP big valve G-head 190's/160's @ .500"
MP 005 head gasket
ARP studs
Taft S2 cam
Fidanza adj cam gear
modified 1 piece intake
52mm TB
large open air filter in front of the tranny
ported stock exhaust manifold
FM E3 turbo (50 trim/stage 3 exhaust)
2.5" swingvalve
3" exhaust, Dynomax Ultraflo muffler
custom made FMIC
Turbo XS RFL BOV
RP custom 3bar cal
'87 electronics (LM)
57pph Siemens injectors
modified stock T2 fuel rail
3/8" fuel line from tank to rail
5/16" return
Walbro HP 255 lph fuel pump
FM adj fuel psi regulator
Crane hi-6 ignition box
Crane LX92 coil
NGK BPR7ES @ .028"
Magnecor KV85 wires
Mopar cap & rotor
A555
custom made axles
MP autocross springs
Monroe Formula GP shocks
M&H 23" slicks on 6.5" crabs
pump gas, 94 octane
grainger valve (mbc)
21 psi
16° base timing

Only been to the track twice since '04, once at SDAC 14, I had oil spewing out the pcv because the oil restrictor was left out after machining & the second time at home which I had issues trying to run higher boost & didn't get a chance to really try for a better time in street trim, 21 psi, pump gas. Judging from what I've had the chance to play with on the hwy, I know the car is quick:D

12.6 @ 114mph (1/8 mile was crap) summer weather
312whp on a Dynapack dyno, summer weather
full boost @ 4400rpm

[johnl]

Great idea, and great data so far.

Easy for me to say - but - how about a checklist format that can be filled in so that no data point is overlooked and from set up to set up, each data point appears in the same place.

[Directconnection]

This isn't going to be the be all, end all. At this point, it is just data collection for a final revision and submission to the new Knowledge Center.


I think JT was on the right track with a format. Hopefully he can post a newly revised one that people can enter in their info. :thumb:

[BadAssPerformance]

This isn't going to be the be all, end all. At this point, it is just data collection for a final revision and submission to the new Knowledge Center.

I think JT was on the right track with a format. Hopefully he can post a newly revised one that people can enter in their info. :thumb:

Thanks... I got an idea, will post tonight.

[TurboGLH]

ENGINE (block/internals/bolt-ons)
Stock 2003 SRT-4 2.4l Turbo

DRIVETRAIN (Trans/Diff type/FD-ratio/axles/etc)
Stock T-850

INDUCTION (head/intake/TB/IC/IC pipe size/bov/etc)
QW Bar and plate large FMIC - 24"x12"x3.5", Stock head, Stock intake/exhaust manifolds, Stock TB, Stock IC piping (2.5") Mopar BOV plate

TURBO & EXHAUST (turbo/exhasut pipe size/type/muffler
Stock TD04, BDJ 3" Dump, 1 Resonator, no cat, no muffler

FUEL INJECTION (injectors/pump/regualtor/rail)
Stage 1 Injectors, 1/4" Return line, AEM 1:1 Regulator, 03' Fuel Rail, Walbro 255lph

ELECTRONICS & IGNITION (computer/cal/ignition)
Stage 1 Computer, Stock Ignition w/ 5.7l Hemi Plugs, Map Clamp (no more peak power, good under the curve gain)

CHASSIS & SUSPENSION (shocks/struts/springs/bars/etc)
Stock

ROLLERS (wheels/tires)
Stock

WEIGHT REDUCTION (unbolted and/or cut-off)
Ummm....Stock?

TRACK RESULTS
Best time@mph: XX.XX @ XX.XXmph
Boost: XXpsi
Race weight:
Track: (Altitude ???)
Temp:
Barometer:

DYNO RESULTS
Dyno WHP: 285
Dyno WTQ: 356
Temp: 63.05
Barometer: 30.05 in/hg

[Whorse]

Stock VNT Lebaron, all stock engine and transmission.

Mods:
Porsche 944 Intercooler
Cold Air Intake

no dyno numbers, but best time on a well used clutch and all season tires was 15.605 at 88.88mph.

[glhs875]

ENGINE (block/internals/bolt-ons)
'87 2.2L Turbo I Long Block out of GLHS
Underdrive Pulley
2.5 rods/JE pistons
custom windage tray
cast crank
DRIVETRAIN (Trans/Diff type/FD-ratio/axles/etc)
413 auto RMVB 4000 stall 8" converter
3.22 final drive
INDUCTION (head/intake/TB/IC/IC pipe size/bov/etc)
445 G head highly ported bigger than 655 casting ports
44mm intake 36.8mm exhaust valves
Taft S3 cam 7200 RPM shift point
ported 2 piece intake
52mm Throttle Body
custom intercooler 3" inlet/outlet
TURBO & EXHAUST
SC 6152 turbo
4" custom down pipe
4" exhaust
Dynomax muffler
FUEL INJECTION
Mopar Performance 42#/hr (+20%) Fuel Injectors Adjustable Fuel pressure Regulator
SMC progressive alky kit (105pph nozzle/15gph nozzle)
ELECTRONICS & IGNITION
custom 86 2 bar cal
MSD digital 6 box
CHASSIS & SUSPENSION
Stock suspension
weight reduction not sure how much
300 treadwear street radials (225/50/15)
TRACK RESULTS
Best time@mph: 8.33 @ 89.77mph (1/8th) 2.04- 60'
Boost:10psi at launch staged to 20psi
full boost 100 feet out
Race weight
Approx 2500lbs
Temp: 90deg +

[ShelGame]

With the right tune a near stocker can smear many of the big turbo cars we see on here....

On that note...

My '89 Daytona C/S NHRA Stocker:

Engine:

Blueprinted/balanced bottom end with 0.04" over Mahles.
Crank is offset ground to equalize and maximize stroke (0.01" longer stroke)
Deck was machined just to clean it up
Head is all stock, blueprinted to equalize chamber cc's
TBI cam, set a 122* CL (stock)
Stock, unported intake manifold
Stock, ported exhaust manifold
Stock Mitsu turbo
+20 injectors
3-bar cal (my own custom cal)
Accufab AFPR (55psi base)
14* base timing
CR = 8.1:1 (not my target, just what it came out to)
2-1/2" downpipe that immediately flares to 3"
no cat, single 3" in, dual 2-1/2" outlet muffler, dumps just under back seat

Car:

Total car weight ~2650lb (w/o driver)
No P/Steering
No P/Brake
No A/C
No Windsheild wipers
Shadow front seats
Airbag delete
5gal Fuel cell (fuel tank delete)
Full interior

Trans:

Race prepped A413 auto, 3.05 final drive
Turbo Action RMVB
Un-equal axles
Phanton grip
22" slicks on 15 x 6.5 Crabs
"Drag race" front end alignment



Best ET was 13.77 at 97mph @ 18psi boost
At 15psi boost, it runs 14.1 ET
2.0x 60' times

Calcualted HP at 15psi ~200hp

[Directconnection]

It's simply a buildup guideline for those people who constantly are mis-construed. Not an exact "you need this" formula.

This is not much more than what I am sure you have done for people when they ask for buildup info. If this were true, then Turbonetics should stop posting their compressor maps as people are being let down that their turbo of choice will support "X" HP at "Y" boost.

Remember... just a simple collection of data.

[shadow88]

There have been a few set-ups, but I'll go with the 2 that have dyno #'s and track #'s for.

1st 88 non-cb 2.2l 0.030 over hyperutectic pistons.
K&N drop in filter
stock t2 turbo @18 psi
stock ic from 88 shelby daytona
52mm tb with enlarged 1 piece
super 60 cam in swirl head and back-cut valves with minor port matching
804 injectors
mildly ported t2 manifold
2 1/4" downpipe into 2 1/2" exhaust no cat
a-520 trans with centerforce clutch
no weight removed 88 shadow es
koni front struts
passenger battery and solid bobble strut
mopar turbo intercooled performance smec.

dyno 205 whp and 251 wtq at 18 psi
ran 14.0 at 98.9 mph. Best mph was 101 both on 205/50r15 bfg drag radials

current set-up.

same block and head
same weight
cold air intake with cone filter.
same turbo at about 21 psi
custom made intake and exhaust manifolds
srt-4 intercooler mounted up front and low
88 tbi cam
2.5" swingvalve and complete 2.5" exhaust with cut-out
+40 injectors afpr and 2 cold starts 255lph walbro in tank
socketed smec and 3 bar
shelby daytona springs cut 1 coil off front

dyno 262 whp and 337 wtq at 21-18 psi with cut-out removed
best 1/4 mile 13.4 @ 108 (not alot of traction in 1 and 2) same dr's

[86Shelby]

---shortblock---
'89 2.5
Balance shafts removed
Everything else was stock specs

---head---
stock 782 casting
fresh valvejob
'88 TBI camshaft

---intake---
stock TII 2 piece
stock throttlebody

---exhaust---
2.5" mandrel bent system
straight through magnaflow muffler
no catalytic converter
ported exhaust manifold

---turbo---
stock Garrett TII
2.25" swingvalve
large wastegate can

---fuel---
255 L/hr Walbro pump
52PPH (+40) injectors
adjustable regulator
92 octane pump gas

---engine management---
Mopar Performance GLHS StageII logic module
4* base ignition timing
16 PSI

---intercooler---
Stock GLHS

---transmission---
A-555, Phantom Grip LSD
TII/TIII clutch


---peak numbers---
WHP-- 200 ~5000 RPM
Torque--294 Ft/Lbs ~2700 RPM

EDIT:
I didn't need the +40s because of fuel demands. +20s did the job at 14 psi; I simply wanted to be able to raise the boost and not have to worry about running out of fuel. I do not remember offhand what the fuel pressure was; though it was a little lower than 55 psi to keep the O2 cycling at part throttle.
The base timing of 4* is not a typo. The MP GLHS spark curve was simply a little too hot, I had to dial the timing back to stay out of knock retard while on pump gas. A couple gallons of 110 mixed in solved all knock issues.
The turbo spools great. When in this state of tune 16 psi could be reached around 2300 rpm when in 5th gear. I never had to downshift on the highway to pass someone or go up a steep hill.

[Directconnection]

16psi and 200whp on a 2.5 that is essentially stock is very good. I don't understand the +40's being able to adapt yet give enough fuel for 16 psi... but it is working and I am learning something here...which is the purpose of this thread. BTW... 4 degrees base timing, or was that a typo for 14 degrees?

Also... interested to know how the Garrett spools on a 2.5.

Thanks to everyone sofar for posting! Keep 'em coming!

[GLHS592]

My setup is on my Cardomain page (http://www.cardomain.com/ride/267451/2 - at the bottom) if you are interested. It hasn't realized its full potential yet. I'm pretty pleased that it ran the 12.53 on around 15-16 psi. It ran a 10 psi 8.51 (1/8 mile) on its very first pass at the track.

[Directconnection]

Please post here or copy and paste if you can. This will make it MUCH easier for us to compile all the info from one spot rather than jumping around the net.

[Dave]

1989 Dodge Spirit ES (in full street trim on M&H 24"x7.5" slicks):
APC 4" air filter placed under battery tray
3" intake pipes
2" charge pipes
IN-cab HP Perf. MBC
'88 Garrett turbo
Stock head and intake
Ported exhaust manifold
2.5" downpipe to an open cut out
2.25 SV"
T2 Intercooler placed directly behind grill
Blitz BOV
8mm Taylor wires
Rn12YC's gapped to .029
+20's
255 pump
FM AFPR
Manual MAP bleed
FWD Perf. Stage 3 computer
Rebuilt 413 with RMVB at 125psi case, 5 clutch pack, stock diff.

Fuel pressure was set to 52psi static, boost at 19-20psi, tire pressure was front at 12psi, rear at 45psi.

I ran a 13.72 at 98mph with a 1.88 60'. I backed it up with another 13.73, and a 13.79 on the same day.

[contraption22]

The following information is based on my last trip to the track in November. Changes have been made since then, but no testing or data has been gathered.

1986 Plymouth Horizon

2.2 Common Block
Stock TII steel crank
FM JE Forged Pistons .020 oversize
Stock TII Rods
Balanced rotating assembly

Steve Menegon Swirl Head
1mm oversize valves
.484 lift cam

Modified 1-piece intake manifold
Elbow removed, roof raised, runner shortened, port-matched to head.
Neon 52mm throttle body

Super60 Fuel pump
-6 feed line
Billet fuel rail
Accufab regulator

Turbonetics T3/T04B Hybrid Turbocharger
Super50 compressor wheel, true T04B housing
StageII turbine wheel, .63 A/R housing
TurbosUnleashed Hybrid Header
2 1/2 swingvalve

Spearco intercooler, 21x3 core, 6" long tubes.
2.5" aluminum and silicone intercooler plumbing.

S60 Electronics
4-wire 02 sensor conversion
Active knock control
Custom calibration
72lb injectors

24.5" M&H Racemasters

60 ft. 1.749
330 4.929
1/8 7.639
mph 90.04
1000 10.045
1/4 12.128
MPH 107.75

Boost @ 22psi
A/F @ 9.49:1

[Aries_Turbo]

ill give it a shot.... 88 Plymouth Reliant

ENGINE (block/internals/bolt-ons)
Stock 2.5L CB with JE forged pistons and ARP rod bolts.

DRIVETRAIN (Trans/Diff type/FD-ratio/axles/etc)
Stock 523 with 3.5 FD and T-Trac (does nothing now) TU 6puck ultimate clutch.

INDUCTION (head/intake/TB/IC/IC pipe size/bov/etc)
Stock Swirl head/Stock intake/stock 46mm tb/Mitsu Fuso IC with 2.25" inlet/outlet added and original blocked off/2.25" mandrel bent piping/Donovan style modded 1st gen DSM BOV

TURBO & EXHAUST (turbo/exhasut pipe size/type/muffler
Stock T2 Garrett with .63ar Turbonetics housing/TU 3" SV/3" DP, no cat, 3" exhaust with dynomax ultraflow welded muffler.

FUEL INJECTION (injectors/pump/regualtor/rail)
+40% injectors/255lph walbro/accufab regulator/ stock 91 T1 2.5L rail

ELECTRONICS & IGNITION (computer/cal/ignition)
87 T2 socketed ECU/RP&my own mods 3-bar cal/stock coil/standard products blue cap and rotor/8mm magnecor wires/autolite 63 plugs

www.wbo2.com DIY 2A0 kit with Palm PDA display

CHASSIS & SUSPENSION (shocks/struts/springs/bars/etc)
Koni shocks-struts/eibach shadow springs/89 GTC big front swaybar/PB 89-90 poly bushings for the stamped steel bars/solid filled mounts/stolid steve anders bobble strut

ROLLERS (wheels/tires)
6.5" carb wheels with 225/50/15 Kumho 711 street tires. 6.5" crabs with 22x8x15 MT ET Drag slicks

WEIGHT REDUCTION (unbolted and/or cut-off)
Stock interior 88 Plymouth Reliant 2-door

TRACK RESULTS
Best time@mph: 13.4 @ 100.3mph (1.8 60ft on slicks)
Fastest time@mph: 13.7 @ 103.0mph (2.1 60ft on taller street tires)
Boost: 17-19psi (spike a little and drop)
Race weight: ??
Track: (Altitude ???)
Temp: ??
Barometer: ??

DYNO RESULTS
Dyno WHP:n/a
Dyno WTQ:n/a
Temp:n/a
Barometer:n/a

the fuel curve was a little fat over the RPM range.... starting at 11.3 at low rpm and ending up at around 10.0:1 by 6000rpms. Shift points were right around 5000rpms.

Brian

[GLHSKEN]

We'll mmake this progressive:

ENGINE - Stock 87 LW rod GLHS block

DRIVETRAIN - A520

INDUCTION -bone stock

TURBO & EXHAUST Stock

FUEL INJECTION -Stock

ELECTRONICS & IGNITION - GLHS Stage II

CHASSIS & SUSPENSION Stock
ROLLERS- 22" slicks
WEIGHT REDUCTION -None
TRACK RESULTS
Best time@mph: 13.97 @ 99.98mph
Boost: 14psi
Race weight: 2600
Track: 450'
Temp: 65^

Changes over that winter:

Sawed off open 2.25" downpipe, Grainger to 18 psi

13.26 @ 106.8
Temp in the 50's

Rick D hogged out 2.5" Swingvalev open 3" downpipe

12.85 @ 109.7 23" slicks
Race weight 2580 (weighed it that day, a/c system removed)

Bottom line. Opening the downpipe and raising boost from 14 to 18 netted about 50 whp

Going to a larger S/v and downpipe netted another 30 or so. 1/4 mile calc says about 260 whp with a 95% stock set-up

[Nemesismachine]

---shortblock---
'89 2.5
Balance shafts removed
.030" Venolia forged pistons
TII shotpeened rods

---head---
1999 2.0L Neon head
Full race port and polish
1mm oversized valves
3 angle backcut valvejob
titanium retainers

---intake---
LWP 4" intake
65mm Mustang throttle body

---exhaust---
4" side exit (driver side)
Turbonetics 38mm Evolution Wastegate

---turbo---
TU GT3071R turbocharger
Slowboy Racing exhaust manifold, ceramic coated
HKS SSQV
Ceramic coated

---fuel---
255 L/hr Walbro pump
72psi fuel injectors
adjustable regulator

---engine management---
FWDP stage 5 calibration
18psi

---intercooler---
ebay intercooler

---transmission---
a525/a555 hybrid
Quaife LSD
RPS Turbo Carbon clutch

[Directconnection]

Your intentions are good, and it looks like you have a nice setup, but we need whp and et/mph results. (along with 8v info for now will be used)

[iTurbo]

1986 Dodge Omni GLH Turbo: 198 WHP/270 WTQ


Shortblock:
'89 2.5L TI from turbo Caravan. Balance shafts removed but otherwise stock with about 180k miles
Head/Cam/Manifolds:
'89 TII head/cam/manifolds from TC, all stock TII stuff.
Turbocharger:
Stock Garrett 'Turbo II' with quick-spool
Exhaust:
3" TU swingvalve, 3" TU downpipe, 3" FWDP cat-back, cat-delete pipe, and 3" round Dynomax Ultraflo muffler
Intake:
3" mandrel bent aluminum from ATP Turbo with large KN open element filter underhood.
Intercooler:
Large Isuzu NPR from eBay. 2.75" mandrel bent aluminum charge pipes from ATP Turbo. ATP 'RS' BOV.
Electronics:
All stock '89 Turbo SMEC from the Caravan.
Fuel system:
In-tank Walbro 255 ltr/hr fuel pump. Otherwise stock '89 TI stuff.
Boost control:
MM Racing manual boost controller (grainger) set for 14 psi boost, as close to cutout as I could get.


Dyno was an in-floor Dynojet chassis dyno at PFI Speed in Ft. Collins, CO (4500ft). It was a 'dyno-day' event so I did not get A/F readings. Peak torque occured at about 3000 RPM with very little spike. Peak HP was around 4700 RPM. The HP curve was very flat from 3000 RPM all the way to 6000 RPM; over 175 WHP for 3000 RPM duration.

[Directconnection]

Decent #s for essentially a stock enigne with 2 more psi...and on a 2.5 to boot.

People... do not let the fact that you don't make 400, 300 or even 250whp discourage you from posting your results.

[iTurbo]

Well in that case...
1987 Shelby Lancer #127: 196 WHP/242 WTQ

Shortblock:
'88 Turbo II, stock
Head/cam/manifolds:
'88 Turbo II, stock
Turbocharger:
Stock Garrett 'Turbo II'
Exhaust:
3" TU swingvalve, 3" TU downpipe, 3" FWDP cat-back, cat delete pipe, 3" oval Dynomax Ultraflo muffler
Intake:
'90 airbox with KN drop-in filter
Intercooler:
Stock Turbo II with 2.25" mandrel bent aluminum charge pipes from ATP Turbo. TurboXS RFL BOV.
Electronics:
Stock '87 Turbo II
Fuel system:
In-tank Walbro 255 ltr/hr fuel pump, MP '804' injectors, otherwise stock '87 TII stuff.
Boost Control:
MM Racing manual boost controller (grainger). Set to 14 psi, close as I could get to cutout.

This was on the same Dynojet as the Omni posted above. I did get A/F results with a wideband sensor up the tailpipe. A/F was decent until it spooled up and was off-the-scale rich from peak torque all the way to 6200 RPM.

[Nemesismachine]

Your intentions are good, and it looks like you have a nice setup, but we need whp and et/mph results. (along with 8v info for now will be used)

So all you want is 8v setups? I cant really provide that, as it hasnt been put in the car yet. Feel free to omit mine until I get true dyno numbers.

[BadAssPerformance]

8v and 16v setups are welcome. If 16v be sure to list which combo you have and more details on the build :thumb:

[Directconnection]

Yeah, I never stated 8v or 16v in my posts, but was referring to the 8v. But, don't let it stop you and others from posting 16v info as that data will be useful for the 16v setup info as well.

[Directconnection]

Where are you TIII guys?!


Spread the word to your 8v and 16v friends to come here and post their setups.

[turbovanman]

First engine

stock bottom end just blue printed, deburred and balanced, bored .020 over, cast pistons, no BS's.

Mild port job on head by me with back cut stock valves, stock cam, stock one piece intake with 52mm tb, ported and modified stock ex manifold, TIII turbo, 3inch dp, 3 inch side exit and Super40 muffler, +20's, 255 fuel pump, AFPR, stock cal, stock auto trans, small RX7 turbo II ic.

236.5 whp at 29 psi and I forget torque but I think it was around 280 ft/lbs. Best run of 14.1@95mph. Van weighed aprox 33-3400 lbs.

2nd engine

stock bottom end balanced, deburred, forged JE pistons-.020 over. No BS's.

Mild port G-head with +1mm stainless undercut valves, stock cam, PT lifters, Magnum 318 valve springs, heavily ported 2 piece intake, 52mm t/b, Typert Log header, T3/T4 turbo-50 trim comp, stage III wheel, .63 housing, 2.5 inch FM elbow, 2.5 inch dp then 3 inch mandrel system to rear of van with Magnaflow muffler, +40's, 3-bar, 255 pump, 725 cfm Bell IC, built trans with 4000 stall converter that I found out now was bad at time of dyno, UMBASS's G-head cal, Devil's own Alky, BR9ES plugs.

2nd gear runs, best of 258.4 whp and torque up around 300. Crappy power but tuning issues and a bad TC were the culprit. Going back soon to redo it now I have a new TC and a new cal.

Best run with this setup 13.4@98 mph-race weight of 3600 lbs.

[GLHSKEN]

Please keep this thread about combo's and what was achieved power wise. Keep the chit chat elsewhere. Thanks

[unluckyty]

87 Shadow es,converted to a TII,
stock turbo, 23# boost
front mount i/c (xs power inlet/outlet on same side) 20x14x3
3bar Matt Wright chip,
+40, 255 walboro
water injection(winter washer fluid)
23" MH slicks,
2 1/4" down pipe w/ cutout,
a520 tranny TII/TIII clutch pp
93 pump gas.

1.90
5.41
8.40
82.27
10.94
13.18
101.62

Changed to a
Turbonetics T3/T4E turbo( 50 trim, 63 exhaust housing with stage 2 wheel)
@ 21# boost

1.96
8.360
84.24
12.98
105.87

[10G OMNI]

1985 GLH Turbo

2.2 forged J+E pistons
T/3-T/4 turbo 50 trim stage 2
Alabama header
G head mild port
Sperco
3 swingvalve to 3 side exhaust only a straight through muffler
+40 D-CAL
523 3:50 T-trac Aluminum flywheel
88 roller
24.5x8.5x15 slicks

This is what it ran back in 2005 season on 18 psi

1.813
5.288
8.106---87.15mph
12.565--110.88mph

That should be somewhere about 300whp at 18psi

This engine combo has proven very reliable and safe at 18psi all day long and it still runs great to this day.I even managed a 150+ MPH run against a bike.

[3Bar_Mopar]

Car: 1990 Daytona Shelby C/S 2.5 T1 automatic car with leather and power interior.

Block/bottom end: 2.5 common block with new Mahle 2.5 pistons standard size, new Cleavite bearings and new rings and balance shafts removed.

Head: Stock 2.5 782 head with '88 turbo roller cam, new MP gasket and bolts with Copper shim.

Turbo: Forward Motion Enforcer 1 turbo with quick spool, polished compressor housing and stainless lines.

Transmission: Stock A413 automatic with external trans cooler.

Induction: VNT Radiator/intercooler, stock T1 BOV and cone style filter.

Exhaust: Stock 2.25 swing valve and 2.5 open downpipe.

Misc: A/C delete bracket, serious weight redux inside, pillar mounted A/F and Boost gauges.

Wheels/tires: 16x7" Vault wheels with 225/50R16 Kumho tires.

Boost: 10 PSI max

[Orangetona]

No disrespect 3bar, but they said before that you need either HP and TQ, 1/4 miles times or both. ;)

[shadow88]

Could more people take the time to write their set ups here? :bump2:

[Austrian Dodge]

I'd love too, but it's still not dyno tuned, so I can't give you guys exact numbers ;)

[Rattlesnake]

Old set up(New set up is running but still under development)

Car:
1989 Spirit ES 5speed

Engine:
2.5 L .020 overbore
Roting assembly balanced
TII rods preped with ARP bolts
JE forged pistons

Induction:
Ported 1 piece intake
52mm TB
72pph injectors

Turbo:
Hybrid 46 trim .63ar turbine

Valvetrain:
Taft S3 cam
Stage 3 FM head

Exhaust:
2.5sv
3" full exhaust no cat.

Electronics:
Relentless T1 2bar cal(cut out raiser)

Transmission:
Stock A520 with 6puck clutch and centerforce pp
Aluminum flywheel

Suspension:
Eibach with konis

Brakes:
Stock cross drill with racing pads front
88 shelby Z 11.25 vented rear

Enhancers:
Snow Performance Water Injection

Power:
377whp@36psi
404wlbs/ft@36psi

Quater mile:
n/a

note:
Vehicle was cought by radar at the straigh of Summit Point Raceway at 155+mph in 4th gear with this set up.

Reinaldo Moloon
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/514/09-04-2006_04-54-50pm.jpg

[ShelGame]

You're running 36psi boost on a 2-bar cal?

"Balls as big as church bells" - I think the saying goes...

[cordes]

You're running 36psi boost on a 2-bar cal?

"Balls as big as church bells" - I think the saying goes...

I think he is running a piggy back to control the fuel IIRC.

[Sloride]

90' daytona a523 3.5 final drive

2.5l stock
Mitsu turbo 12ish G-valve (creeping up)
afpr 58psi
3" exaust cat back
audi intercooler (new end tanks 2.25 pipes)

169 hp @4000 peaked at 4500 lasted till 5200 then down
235 tq from 1800 - 3200 then it goes down

2.45 60'
15.303 @94mph
^ done pig rich to keep away from cutout

[Frank]

We are currently working on combining this information into a good FAQ. Stay tuned and thanks for the work!

[stage3]

1990 Dodge Daytona VNT to T2
2.2 with 568 trans.

Forward Moiton Enforcer 2 shortblock
2.2
Steel crank
JE forged pistons
O-ringed

Forward Moiton Enforcer 2 head
Swirl head
Ported
1mm oversize valves
ARP bolts
Felpro gasket
Stock cam 4 deg advanced
Adjustable cam gear

Ported 1 pc intake
52mm throttle body

+40 injectors
Stock fuel rail and lines
195 lph pump
Adjustable regulator

Ported exhaust mainfold
RP Stage 2 turbo.
T3/T4 TO4E 50 trim in T3 housing.
Stage 2 exhaust wheel
2 ½ swingvalve
3” full exhaust
Edelbrock RPM muffler

Griffith intercooler
2 ½ piping
TurboXs RFLeaker

3 bar, + 40 cal
Crane CD ignition and coil
Taylor wires
Timing 14 btdc
LM-1 wideband

Ceramic 4 puck clutch

Solid motor mounts
Poly bushings – suspension

Blitz ebc
25 psi-dyno run 3
94 octane and Cam 2
http://members.cox.net/tarkus3/Daytona/dyno/t3t4dyno%20oct.jpg

Replaced stock cam with a Taft S2.
Added water injection. 50/50 water/meth
New wga
26 psi
94 Octane and 2 oz Torco per gallon.
http://members.cox.net/90vnt/06%20dyno/Daytona%20dyno%2010-14-06.jpg

[ssheen]

Nice #s Stage 3.

[mw6886]

87 Shelby Charger

ENGINE (block/internals/bolt-ons)
2.2L Common Block
Forged 2.2 crank
T2 Rods, ARP wavelok rod bolts
ARP main studs
Mahle .020 Pistons
ZeroGap rings
DRIVETRAIN (Trans/Diff type/FD-ratio/axles/etc)
94 A-523 Transaxle (3.50:1) with Black Trax Posi
Omni Equal length axles
Mcleod Revlok Clutch
Neon short shifter
INDUCTION (head/intake/TB/IC/IC pipe size/bov/etc)
2.2L FB Turbo Head (Crossdrilled) slightly ported
FWDPerformance F-4 Cam Installed at 116*
Fidanza adjustable cam sprocket
2-pc intake Mildly ported, opened to 52mm
52mm Throttle Body
Huge K&N Airfilter
2.5" Intercooler piping
Shelby Z Radiator (Stock)
TurboXS RFL
Mishimoto Intercooler 3" inlets
TURBO & EXHAUST (turbo/exhasut pipe size/type/muffler)
Ported stock Exhaust manifold
T3/T4 50trim .63 Turbo (T3 compressor housing)
3" RP Swingvalve
3" mandrel bent exhaust side exit
3.5" Dynomax Race Bullet
FUEL INJECTION (injectors/pump/regualtor/rail)
255L/ph fuel pump
+40 Injectors
Accufab AFPR
FWDPerformance billet fuel rail
Leaded race gas (110 octane)
ELECTRONICS & IGNITION (computer/cal/ignition)
87 Turbo LM, my custom calibration
Champion RN9YC Plugs (.025 gap)
Magnecor 8.5mm Ignition Wires
CHASSIS & SUSPENSION (shocks/struts/springs/bars/etc)
Monroe Formula GP Front Struts
Koni Rear Shocks
Mopar Performance Road Race Springs
Energy suspension swaybar and control arm bushings
ROLLERS (wheels/tires)
23" M&H Racemaster Slicks
WEIGHT REDUCTION (unbolted and/or cut-off)
Removed A/C components under the hood
Removed charcoal canister
Removed all unneeded stuff from in car
4 point cage installed

TRACK RESULTS - Stock turbo/cam/head/clutch
Best time@mph: 12.509 @ 110mph
Boost: 22psi
Race weight: ???
Track: Kil-Kare Speedway Xenia, Oh
Temp: Approx 67*F
Barometer: ???

DYNO RESULTS
Dyno WHP: ???
Dyno WTQ: ???
Temp: ???
Barometer: ???

[Dave]

1990 Dodge Caravan ES, fully loaded, no back seats or spare tire. Still have the trailer hitch and accessories on. Raced it on the track just like I drove it there, changed nothing, not even tire pressure.

Here's my setup:

- balance shafts
Fresh rings
No A/C

T3/T04E 50 trim with S2 wheel
4.5" filter off turbo
2.5" aluminum intercooler pipes
F350 Powerchoke FMIC
In cab MBC

Ported exhaust manifold
2.5" SV
3" downpipe
3" Dynomax Ultraflow to a side exit behind pass door

Taylor 8mm wires

Fresh 413
RMVB
5 clutch pack
5 pinion planetary ring gear

I ran a 15.10 at 89.4 mph in the 1/4 and 9.64 at 71mph in the 1/8th with a 2.19 60' running 13psi. Also my A/F was at 10.9:1, pretty fat still.

[sexygomer]

'85 Lebaron

ENGINE (block/internals/bolt-ons)
2.2L T1
umm...a new head gasket

DRIVETRAIN (Trans/Diff type/FD-ratio/axles/etc)
A-413 (small spline)
Equal length axles

INDUCTION (head/intake/TB/IC/IC pipe size/bov/etc)
bathtub head, mildly ported
cheap cone air filter
Shelby Z Radiator/intercooler
Fifth (Volvo) injector set to ten Psi

TURBO & EXHAUST (turbo/exhasut pipe size/type/muffler)
Stock Turbo
2.5" catless exhaust

FUEL INJECTION (injectors/pump/regualtor/rail)
Stock t2 injectors
adjustable FPR

ELECTRONICS & IGNITION (computer/cal/ignition)
Ghetto hobbes type switch for fifth injector
Champion RN9YC Plugs (.035 gap)

CHASSIS & SUSPENSION (shocks/struts/springs/bars/etc)
complete 89 Shelby Daytona suspension and brakes
Stainless steel brake lines

ROLLERS (wheels/tires)
16" Lace wheels
205/55/16 Continental Extreme contact

TRACK RESULTS - Stock turbo/cam/head/clutch
Best time@mph: 15.0 @ 91mph
Boost: 15psi
Race weight: ~2700lbs
Track: Edgewater raceway Cinti, OH
Temp: ???
Barometer: ???
(shoulda been faster but ran it lean on friggin pump gas and craked a piston, estimated mid 14's with that setup)

DYNO RESULTS
Dyno WHP: ???
Dyno WTQ: ???
Temp: ???
Barometer: ???

[Dave]

Updated with better numbers - 1990 Caravan ES (fully loaded, minor weight reductions) on street tires.

Engine:
Stock 2.5 rebuilt with stock internals -balance shafts

Induction:
T3/T04E 50 trim S2 wheel
In cab MBC
F350 FMIC
2.5" aluminum i/c pipes
DevilzOwn Water injection with 7GPH jet (using Winter Blue)
4.5" air filter off the turbo
Stock head and intake

Exhaust:
2.5" SV
3" downpipe
3" side exit straight pipe

Fuel:
+40's
AFPR
Stock pump

I was running 23psi on a VERY humid day with no traction. The boost was also fluddering from 21-23psi. I now installed the external spring and it holds fine.

I ran a 13.85 at 101.82 with a 2.23 60'. No dyno numbers yet. Might go racing again today.

[Dave]

More to add, I know I'm a whore. Same setup described as above but on 21psi. A/F was at 11.1:1.

I made 248 WHP/298 WTQ. Here's the graph:

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/644/VanDyno.jpg

[moparzrule]

87 Dodge Daytona Pacifica

87 T2 block
Cast T1 crank
FWD-P T2 rods
Stock mahle pistons std bore
287 G head ported by Mike Sanders, stock valves
88' turbo roller cam
ported stock exhaust manifold
bone stock 2 piece intake
Stock ignition, even the stock coil
Dual stock core intercooler by Gary D
underdrive pulley, A/C delete
Super 70 turbo from TU, with .63 turbine stock wheel
2.5'' swingvalve
3'' exhaust, bullet muffler in place on CAT and ultraflow muffler
A520 trans w/moly plate and ceramic/organic 8 button clutch w/dual diaphram PP
TU cal for G headed 2.2 with 3 bar, +40's, 93 octane. I used the stock FPR, EGT's were a perfect 1500. Paul is the best at cal's! I had wideband on too but forget what it said. The dyno sheet is somewhere, can't remember where I put that thing.

Outside temp was 87 degrees, humidity was high don't remember exactly. At 19 PSI it put out 269 WHP and 317 ft/lbs. Full boost at 3200 RPM. Sorry I don't remember what the peak HP and torque were at. If I had to guess it would be peak torque at 3800 and HP at around 5800. I do remember the intake charge temp was 118 degrees AFTER 5 pulls 14-19 PSI and with 87 degree ambient. Not bad IMHO considering going down the road would have made it even cooler.
We started at 14 PSI and made 1 PSI increments. I had 234 WHP at 14 PSI, so I had exactly 7 HP per pound of boost increase. Unfortunitley I only had time to get up to 19 PSI, I wanted to get all the way to 25.

[moparzrule]

90' daytona a523 3.5 final drive

2.5l stock
Mitsu turbo 12ish G-valve (creeping up)
afpr 58psi
3" exaust cat back
audi intercooler (new end tanks 2.25 pipes)

169 hp @4000 peaked at 4500 lasted till 5200 then down
235 tq from 1800 - 3200 then it goes down

2.45 60'
15.303 @94mph
^ done pig rich to keep away from cutout

Those are impressive numbers for your setup IMO. The stock engine makes 150 HP at the crank, probably 130 at the wheels at 10 PSI. so you are making roughly 40 more HP with the only mods being intercooler, exhaust, and 2 PSI more boost. Nice. Not to mention the engine has how many miles on it? More mileage, more likely it's worn out not even making the 150 HP it should be bone stock.

[moparfwdsleeper]

88 Shadow ES
2.2 Non Common Block
Cast Crank
TII Rods/Pistons
Hasting Moly Rings
782 Swirl Head:
+1mm Valves
MP Springs
Either: 88 Turbo Cam or Super60 Cam
89 Garrett T03 Turbo
CSX Rad/IC Setup
Turbo XS RFL BOV
Turbo XS Boost Controller
MP +40 Injectors
FWD-P Stage 5 Cal
GM 3bar MAP... Coming Soon
2.5" Turbo Back Exhaust
Dynomax Super Turbo Muffler
Fidanza Adj. Cam Sprocket
FM Adj FPR
Ported Intake
52mm TB
Ported Exhaust
Cometic .074 Head Gasket
ARP Rod Bolts
ARP Head Studs
ARP Main Studs... Coming Soon
PB.com Bobble Strut and Mounts(all around)
JRS(lotashelbys) Short Throw Shifter
BoogerBushing Poly Shifter Bushing
A568 Transmission
TII/TIII Clutch
Crane Cams Ignition
Rbryant MSD Plug Wires and Cap

Seems like there is more but I cant remember it. hmm

[moparzrule]

Clayton the point of posting here is with dyno or drag strip results.

[briceturbosports]

CAR
86 charger
ENGINE
89 2.2 from 400.00 lancer parts car miles ?
HEAD/TURBO
used 1000.00 head / 40 trim / 88 tbi roller / headstuds/ 40+inj/ fmic /255 pump 3 inch race magnum side exaust
TRANS
75.00 yard 523 w 3.77 4 puck clutch / driveshaft shop axels 24.5 slicks

@ 19 psi made 265 hp/ 315 t @ 4250 rpm on dyno @ track 12.61 @ 111.07
@25 psi ran 12.29 @ 112.09

race weight 2610 with driver

[moparfwdsleeper]

Matt I didnt know that. Does say Engine Setup, but now that I look around the thread I can see that lol... Oops Frank or moderator, if this isnt what you want on this thread please delete mine thanks!

[moparzrule]

Matt I didnt know that. Does say Engine Setup, but now that I look around the thread I can see that lol... Oops Frank or moderator, if this isnt what you want on this thread please delete mine thanks!

Are you going to the dyno and/or the track anytime soon? If so there's no need to delete. Don't worry you're not gonna get any warning points like TD.com does. I apologize for being so mean in the post, I was pissed at the time because I got warning points on TD.com for ''poaching'' you in that thread in the board discussion area. Then the great RICKP got pissed at me and looked through my PM's and found I was making deals for ported manifolds so I got banned for ''commerial sales'' when 2 different moderators said that I could still make sales via PM just as long as I kept it off the maind site for viewing of the public.

[Ondonti]

I know its not welcome or helpful but since steve was making up the 8v 16v rules as he went along and the thread title has nothing to do with that I will post anyways.

-Stock 3.0 engine
-Ported stock non egr plenum
-58mm tb
-custom rear log manifold
-Tial 38 external plumbed from both crossover pipes dumped to atmosphere
-Tial .4 bar spring (so about 5.8psi boost)
-KKK k27 turbo (basically a to4e super 50 but with a really large turbine housing. Exhaust wheel was similar to a stage 5)
-3" exhaust with 3" cat & 3" ultraflow
-BEGI RRR set to max rate of gain (didnt have laptop yet to tune so playing it safe)
-zeitronix wideband with boost & EGT sensors on lcd display (still needed laptop)
-6*30# injectors @ 31.5 psi base pressure
-2.5" IC piping to front mount 12x3x20 tube/fin intercooler with evo style endtanks
-All season tires 225/60r15 (crappy compound)

3000# raceweight
13.987@101.89 with a 2.3 60' driving very conservatively.
8.5-9.5 a/f (gets leaner near redline) Noted before why it was so rich.

Made 2 more passes but the 2nd one was a 15.1@101.7 and the 3rd one was on maybe 10+psi boost and not a successful run thanks to fuel pump.

330' elevation with pretty good weather.

I will be dynoing my new T67 p-trim setup on the built motor @ .4 bar when I have time. Then I will hit the track.
I had to cancel my previous appointment because FPR diaphragm burst.

[Aries_Turbo]

no issue with posting a 3.0L turbo build on here. the intent is to see what people are making with various setups so that others can see what works well for their own builds.

Brian

[moparzrule]

I have no problem posting 3.0 builds, heck it's turbo so why not? I think thats awesome to turbo the 3.0. And he's running 13's with a 2.3 short time. Get that short time below 2 seconds and with a proper tune I think 12's is easily done. Nice.

[moparfwdsleeper]

Dont sweat it bro. I got my smartass comment in;)... That is why you didnt reply back to me on that thread, lol you should show RICKP those comments that the mods posted. That commercial sales crap is weird but what can you do when a vendor has complained about it.

I do plan on taking it to the track, dyno is on that "I hope too" list. I dont know where one is in Tulsa County or how id find one so until then I dont know about the dyno.

[Ondonti]

hey you bastards stop spamming the thread ;)
Delete all this crap :D It doesnt matter to me, this setup doesnt have any dyno or track times
Im not worried about the times as my duster will knock down mid/low 12's easy on 6psi. Its probably 2400-2450# with me in the car and I have slicks so even if I make the same power deep 12's are easy. Dont plan on making the same power
I dont have any numbers for the new setup but its much "badder"
Heads flow 210cfm's @ only .400" lift and 278 cams with .450" lift (stock ~.380")
Anyways Im interested to see how the new setup compares to the old one @ .4bar.
Then I can see about increasing boost. t67 ptrim taps out a bit over 700whp which is about the limit of my curent shortblock.
I would have hit the dyno if my regulator diaphragm didnt burst.
Im guessing I "could" make 300whp on .4 bar 5.8psi with a good tune but maybe a bit lower because of my 7:1 compression.

I figure previous setup made 240+whp with crap tune so I think with the upgrades I will get what I want.
Goal is 11.99 on .4 bar
Main weakness is exhaust manifolds are log style and the front one is the stocker which SUCKS so reversion could be a problem when I up the boost. Would like to build something else but I have too many projects already.
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/148/img1762cb0.jpg
Finishing up a custom ram style intake manifold but Its going to be tested on the daily driver.
http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/255/img1830ww4.jpg
http://img112.imageshack.us/img112/1764/img1848hv2.jpg
http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/3898/img1841nk0.jpg

[moparzrule]

That looks sweet. Gotta love that the first thing you see is the bigass turbo as soon as you open the hood LOL. Nice sheetmetal intake too.

[Dave]

Man that looks mean. Brent you are inspiration to me to build a bi-turbo V6 van after I graduate. I really wonder why more people aren't turboing those V6's. They are power monsters. :nod:

[MopàrBCN]

Well then, I think my setup will probably inspiry newcomers to this type of Hobby. Even though, I am not entyrely new to all this, it did impress me as well.

Car: 1989 Chrysler Lebaron Turbo II GTC Convertible

The car is basically bone Stock. No weight reduction, nothing like this.
It's got the Garret T3 Turbo, the Stock intercooler, Stock Throttlebody, A555 manual transmission etc. Everything as it was put in when it was first built.

So I focus only on what was modified:

Performance Related Mods:

1. 2.5" in/out Magnaflow Stainless Steel Cat (from FWDP)
2. 2.5" Mandrell Bent Aluminium CatBack (from FWDP)
3. 2.5" in/out Dynomax Super Turbo (from FWDP)
3. Drop In K&N Filter (stock Airbox/Stock IC)
4. G-Valve (Manual Boostcontroller from 3barracing.com) set at currently 12PSI
5. TurboXS Type H RFL BOV (from FWDP) installed between Throttle Body and Stock Airbox (that is scary loud stuff)

-----

Dynotests:
Before Modification 173hp
After Modification (same Dynoshop) 217hp (!!)

1/4 Mile (best of 5 runs on private track in France at Peugeot Facility) 14.04 at 162 km/h

Now, this did get me emotional!

--------------------------------------------------------------------
For those who are new to this game I would like to comment on my modifications. For the rest of you guys there is nothing new in here.

Observations:

First of all, if you call a Lebaron your own, the oval Dynomax Super Turbo Muffler WILL NOT fit - unlike what they might suggest. I did get it mounted but it looks ugly and we did have to do fabrication for it to fit. Basically it is now mounted underneath the bodypart, so you'll see its full body dimension driving behind me...... It will go soon!

Second of all, in the same car, this is my personal opinion, 2.5" exhaust pipes are the limit! More will NOT FIT - again unlike what vendors might (and in my case did) suggest - at least it will not fit without having contact with the body. We did need quite some fantasy and improvisation to get the 2.5" pipes fitted.

The first modification I did was the in my opinion most notable improvement from Stock: The Exhaust. It was the first time that I was able to rev the car up to 6000. I also notices much faster Spool Up from the turbo, so that I was able to enjoy it already in first (which I wasn't before). At this point I can 100% confirm what anybody is suggesting. Before making any modification, do the Exhaust. In my opinion this is the cornerstone for anything which follows, because it brings to life what is hidden in your car without touching anything else.

The next modification was installing the BOV. A few words on this one: It was a notable improvement of the turboresponse between shifts, and after all when cruising in 5th! But in my case, it came at a price which I am uncertain of, if I am willing to pay this on the long run: My BOV is extremely loud. If you make a bit of acceleration near a retirement home you are in constant danger causing someone passing by a heartattack (yourself included). There must be a quiter way archieving the same thing what my BOV does. However, since the T2 setup does not include a BOV I now understand why it is a good idea to have one, and suggest that this should have nearly the same prio as the exhaust.

With the next mod y really improved bottom end power but feel that I lost in top end power, and this was installing the G-Valve. I currently have it set at 12psi which is 2.x psi less then my factory SMEC permits at its max. It is equally the cheapest mod I have made.
With this I have achieved 2 things of importance to me:
1. Since I have it installed, I never ever had overboost cutout again, because at its level of 12psi the pressure will never come near that point.
2. At the same time I feel I have nearly more then twice the amount of boost available at revs under 3500. This results in extremely notable improvements of accelaration after all in first and second. However, this sensation fades in 3rd gear. At this point your SMEC would have permitted the max boost level of 14.x psi and I now have at this point "only" my preset 12psi. BUT(!) youll regain in 4th. Because your stock SMEC only does give you max boost for about 10 seconds you win in 4th having for this periode where you are revving under 3500 your full boost of 12psi and thereafter you are at what you would have had before.
3. Another not quite as obvious improvement with having the G-Valve in conjunction with the BOV installed is your cruise quality in 5th!!! Lets assume you are cruising at 120km/h (ca. 70mph) and you want to quickly pass a car. Forgett about going into 4th. Thats history. Now you have at all engine speeds you 12psi. You tip the gas,you feel the accelaration and in no time you are at 140km/h). The moment you let off you hear the BOV and with a tip on the accelerator your boost gauge is at 12 psi ang you are pushed into your seat again.

So, that's it folks. More is to come. Quite clearly, my next priority is to improve handling - so improving suspension and breaking is my issue. Once this is done I already know, that I need more boost up from 3500 rpm. So my next move will be to improve fuel supply and give controll back to a modified ECU.

[moparzrule]

If your boost is staying pretty steady why not just set it to 13.5-14 PSI whatever it won't cut out at? You will not run lean (unless your pump or injectors are faulty) and you will not detonate if you run atleast 91 octane which you should be doing anyway.

[MopàrBCN]

If your boost is staying pretty steady why not just set it to 13.5-14 PSI whatever it won't cut out at? You will not run lean (unless your pump or injectors are faulty) and you will not detonate if you run atleast 91 octane which you should be doing anyway.

Hi, I decided for 12psi initially to see how things are going because I felt on the safe side.
Until I did try the G-Valve I wasn't sure if that was the way to go. I now do feel different about it, because at this point I only see advantages.

But I do have issues (which I already had before) which I want to take care of before. For example, since I bought the car I feel it is idling too high. It is also idling high between shifts, which I haven't figured yet why it is doing this. (Suppose vacuum leaks).

For me the most important thing in the whole exercise was, seeing the theory put into praxis. That for me was a success. Other then that, you are absolutely right!

[turbogui]

ENGINE
1989 CB
T3 shaved piston
89 tbi 2.2 crank
60mm Tb from Jeep
3.5 inch plenum intake
Mexican stratus RT header
577 injector ( Maxed)
Crank scrapper
T3/T4 57 trim stage 3 Turbo
36X12X3 intercooler
2.5 mandrel inter piping
Water injection 5 Gph jet
38mm Wastegate external
3 inch mandrel exhaust
Megasquirt engine management fuel/spark
External voltage regulator
Innovate LM-1 Wideband
Antilag (Ms feature)
Fully build A413 RMVB
Drag radial.

13.13 @ 118mph Gtech time
I like the setup...feel great top end is NICE!
Blow tire 1-2 at 16+ psi even with DR.
20 psi is perfect..i will just like a bit less lag ( 4200-4500)
Shift at 7000 rpm ...still pull...

I need a good set of slick to get traction. I hope low 12 maybe 11.99.

Guillaume

[Shadow]

2.2 stock 87-88 T2 shortblock with forged pistons (.20 over)
1mm ported G-head
H-studs
custom 1 piece intake with 58mm TB
72lb inj's
stock cam
stock ported exhaust mani
cooling mods
super 57 trim to4e/stage 3
3" swingvalve
3" mandrel exhaust with Borla mufflers
twin stock FMIC's
4 puck clutch
568

Dyno'd 448whp, 452ft torque At 35psi (I've run as high as 42)
Last outing car was trapping 132-133mph without WOT shifting.

[turbovanman]

My 2.5L TIII build up. Dynoed at 289 whp @20psi, using an 8 valve cal for now.
Best run, untuned is 13.8@100.7 mph.

89 2.5L CB bored .020 over, decked, deburred, oil pump hole enlarged, main studs and align honed. No BS's.
Eagle rods, coated bearings.
Stock crank, deburred, balanced, coated bearings.
Stock oil pump
2.5L TIII Venolia's, coated.
TIII head, stock cams, minor porting/cleanup
Ported and coated stock exhaust manifold
Stock intake with a custom 4L plenum, 52mm tb.
60 trim Garret T3/T4 turbo, .63 housing, stage III coated turbine.
External Turbonetics Evolution wastegate, 3 inch turbo back, mandrel bent, Magnaflow muffler.
Stock 89 Van SMEC with dist, 3bar +40 cal, Gary D 8 valve cal
Aurora wires and coil, NGK BR9ES Iridium plugs, gapped at .030"

[Frank]

Thanks guys for the info. Now I need your help in categorizing this information. The following article shows what I had in mind. While we categorize it per engine type, I would love to do it per model to make it easy for the less experienced.

Using the information posted, I would love to get the table filled in with the data required to reach those HP goals. I need to show only the items required.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/vbarticles.php?do=article&articleid=60

[Frank]

Anyone????

[ShelGame]

IMO, for the '89-91 2.5 T1; <250HP; all that is needed is +20's & a 3-bar cal set to 15-18psi. An intercooler will help keep it together, but not required. That's what I run in my race car and I put down ~215hp at 15psi boost.

For over 250hp, a switch to a T2 Garret is needed; + I/C is required; +40's are required.

[moparzrule]

87' T1 daytona for 250-300 WHP needs-
T2 conversion, T2 rods and pistons (stock T1 crank and block still OK)
stock untouched one piece intake is fine for this level
88' turbo roller cam
Ported exhaust manifold
Super 60 or 70 turbo with .63 turbine
2.5'' or larger swingvalve
3'' exhaust
I used a ported G head, a stock swirl might still get you to 250 on pump 93
Dual stock core IC or equivalent or better of course (stock T2 is a little restrictive at this point)
Custom cal for 3 bar +40's, 20 PSI or so on pump 93.
A/C delete and underdrive pulley helps some
A520 tranny with moly plate (basically anything but a 525)
A kevlar or 6 puck clutch from TU will handle about 300-350 WHP.

I dynoed 270 WHP at 19 PSI.

For 301-350 WHP-
Common block, T2 rods with ARP bolts, forged pistons recommended but not mandatory, cast crank is fine at this level.
Ported head, stock valves probably OK, heavy valve springs recommended
Ported intake, 1 piece or 2 doesn't matter
ported exhaust manifold
hybrid turbo, super 50 trim with stage 2 or 3 turbine
2.5 or larger swingvalve
3'' exhaust
3 bar +40's calibration, 20-25 PSI
A/C delete and UDP help but not mandatory of course
4th cylinder cooling mod recommended
Atleast dual stock core IC, perhaps triple core or a spearco. NPR or cummins IC would work too if on a budget
A555/A523/A568 tranny (moly plate if 555)
4 or 6 puck clutch

[Frank]

IMO, for the '89-91 2.5 T1; <250HP; all that is needed is +20's & a 3-bar cal set to 15-18psi. An intercooler will help keep it together, but not required. That's what I run in my race car and I put down ~215hp at 15psi boost.

For over 250hp, a switch to a T2 Garret is needed; + I/C is required; +40's are required.

That is what I am looking for. THanks. I will work on updating it tonight.

[BadAssPerformance]

IMO, for the '89-91 2.5 T1; <250HP; all that is needed is +20's & a 3-bar cal set to 15-18psi. An intercooler will help keep it together, but not required. That's what I run in my race car and I put down ~215hp at 15psi boost.

For over 250hp, a switch to a T2 Garret is needed; + I/C is required; +40's are required.

True... for '87 - '89 T2, see my Shadow's stockass build sheet :thumb:

[Frank]

I populated the article with some more data. This should allow people to get the scope of the content I am looking for.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/vbarticles.php?do=article&articleid=60

So based on that, when would you all recommend fuel pumps, etc? Lets not forget those kinds of items.


Frank

[turbovanman]

IMO, for the '89-91 2.5 T1; <250HP; all that is needed is +20's & a 3-bar cal set to 15-18psi. An intercooler will help keep it together, but not required. That's what I run in my race car and I put down ~215hp at 15psi boost.

For over 250hp, a switch to a T2 Garret is needed; + I/C is required; +40's are required.

Are you sure you can get 250 whp out of a Mitsu?

255 fuel pump is recommended.

Also, no vans in that guide, Frank.

[Directconnection]

True... for '87 - '89 T2, see my Shadow's stockass build sheet :thumb:

Frank, the previous couple of posts prior to this one are good, but are an "opinion" on setup specs. We need factual setups/results of members cars, not hypothetical buildups no matter how good they are.

Rmember, it's a conglomination of "been there, done thats" so everyone can see what works for most at certain power levels.

[Frank]

Frank, the previous couple of posts prior to this one are good, but are an "opinion" on setup specs. We need factual setups/results of members cars, not hypothetical buildups no matter how good they are.

Rmember, it's a conglomination of "been there, done thats" so everyone can see what works for most at certain power levels.

Got your PM.

This is just a first step. This is meant to be a brief over view. Each section will allow you to click and then that is where go to where everyone can view people's experiences. This is meant to be a quick guide.

I want to see us finish the table. There will be more and that is where your information is going to make it powerful.


Frank

[ShelGame]

Are you sure you can get 250 whp out of a Mitsu?

255 fuel pump is recommended.

Also, no vans in that guide, Frank.

Well, it's for <250hp :) Actaully, the Mitsu should be able to just eek out 250hp on a godd setup. 18-20 psi right near the surge line it does flow enough air to do it.

I'm getting ~215 at only 15-16psi. I got ~230 @ 18 psi. (this is by fairly proven ET and MPH calculators).

You're right about the pump - I forgot about that. Definitely needed.

Plus, I think I'd add that at 18psi, you'll want 94 octane fuel.

[Frank]

I added a statement in the article that the entire table requires 94 octane and that you need a bigger fuel pump as you push the 200hp limit. I am sure I will hear stories about how it is not needed, but this is about promoting a safe method for power gains... nothing half assed.

[turbovanman]

Well, it's for <250hp :) Actaully, the Mitsu should be able to just eek out 250hp on a godd setup. 18-20 psi right near the surge line it does flow enough air to do it.

I'm getting ~215 at only 15-16psi. I got ~230 @ 18 psi. (this is by fairly proven ET and MPH calculators).

.

230 at 18 psi is good but 2 more psi won't get you 20 hp, :confused:

Has anyone dynoed a Mitsu at 250 whp?????????

I believe 20 psi is pretty well maxed out from what I've read and most of its hot air, lol!

[Frank]

Also, no vans in that guide, Frank.


You obviously can't read!!!!! You win a neck punch Simon.... van's have been in there since the begin. You are so used to whining about no van love that you are blind to the obvious!

[moparzrule]

230 at 18 psi is good but 2 more psi won't get you 20 hp, :confused:

Has anyone dynoed a Mitsu at 250 whp?????????

I believe 20 psi is pretty well maxed out from what I've read and most of its hot air, lol!

Well the problem is no one ports a head and manifolds and then puts a mitsu back on there LOL. But I'm sure if someone dyno'd 230 with stock parts it would get you to 250 WHP if ported.

[moparzrule]

87' T1 daytona for 250-300 WHP needs-
T2 conversion, T2 rods and pistons (stock T1 crank and block still OK)
stock untouched one piece intake is fine for this level
88' turbo roller cam
Ported exhaust manifold
Super 60 or 70 turbo with .63 turbine
2.5'' or larger swingvalve
3'' exhaust
I used a ported G head, a stock swirl might still get you to 250 on pump 93
Dual stock core IC or equivalent or better of course (stock T2 is a little restrictive at this point)
Custom cal for 3 bar +40's, 20 PSI or so on pump 93.
A/C delete and underdrive pulley helps some
A520 tranny with moly plate (basically anything but a 525)
A kevlar or 6 puck clutch from TU will handle these levels

I dynoed 270 WHP at 19 PSI.

For 301-350 WHP-
Common block, T2 rods with ARP bolts, forged pistons recommended but not mandatory, cast crank is fine at this level.
Ported head, stock valves probably OK, heavy valve springs recommended
Ported intake, 1 piece or 2 doesn't matter
ported exhaust manifold
hybrid turbo, super 50 trim with stage 2 or 3 turbine
2.5 or larger swingvalve
3'' exhaust
3 bar +40's calibration, 20-25 PSI
A/C delete and UDP help but not mandatory of course
4th cylinder cooling mod recommended
Atleast dual stock core IC, perhaps triple core or a spearco. NPR or cummins IC would work too if on a budget
A555/A523/A568 tranny (moly plate if 555)
4 or 6 puck clutch

Something wring with these writeups here? Let me know what I need to fix Frank. Besides needing a Walbro 255 High pressure pump. Was I too specific because I thought I listed everything quite well with details that you need to know to get to a certain WHP.

[Frank]

Oh and it is no problem. YOur infomation will be used in the examples section. We are listing a brief overview in the table and then breaking it down even further elsewhere.

[cordes]

Last night I was thinking about some how color coding the parts so that you know how hard you are pushing them at a certain HP level. For example you could list the TII turbo as green from stock to ~200HP, then yellow from 200-250, and red from 250-300. I think that this could be a way to visually show how hard you are pushing all the parts in a setup in an easy to read and understand way.

[turbovanman]

You obviously can't read!!!!! You win a neck punch Simon.... van's have been in there since the begin. You are so used to whining about no van love that you are blind to the obvious!

You and your neck punches???? :confused:

Anyhow, I am partly right, I was looking at 89 and you DON'T have it, but in 90-92 you do, which is wrong, as they don't make a 92 turbo van, :p

So neck punch back to you. ;)


90-92 2.5 TurboI
Base
Daytona Shelby
GTC
Van


Cordes, brilliant idea, thats quick and easy to see how far you are at the ragged edge, :nod:

[Directconnection]

Last night I was thinking about some how color coding the parts so that you know how hard you are pushing them at a certain HP level. For example you could list the TII turbo as green from stock to ~200HP, then yellow from 200-250, and red from 250-300. I think that this could be a way to visually show how hard you are pushing all the parts in a setup in an easy to read and understand way.



sounds like a good idea. I have a few ideas I want to use when graphing all of this together.

Classify cars by ET (stick with me on this). Quickest ets at the top. Owner, Car, ET, MPH, weight, 5spvs auto. Then, off to the right of it will be an open field. Up top, you have setup options. TB, displacement, intake, exhaust manifold, turbo specs, etc.... Click on the options for TB and it fills in all the feilds adjacent to each car. Now, you say i wonder what sized TBs 12 second cars are using, simply scroll the page to that area and at one simple glance, you can see what people are using, go up to the 11 second range, and see what those owners are using. Want to know turbo specs, click turbo and now those feilds that were displaying TBs, now has turbo specs next to each car. Seems easy to use and view, but may not be easy for Frank and other's to set up.

[cordes]

That sounds pretty good. I would almost like for people to be able to put in what body car they have and the weight, and then select the desired HP from a drop down box. Then you could have TB, Turbo, IC, etc. choices in drop down boxes which change what selections they contain based off of the previous choices for that HP or ET goal. You could color code the selections in the boxes to show that altough a TII IC can be run into the 10s, it won't do it efficiently.

THere are some really good ideas being posted up about this today.

[Frank]

That color coding is a good idea.

As for the ET, that is chassis dependent and it going to work differently and will be implemented better along with full writeups as I indicated above.

[MopàrBCN]

Hi, I don't know if my opinion counts on this matter:

First of all: In my opinion seperating it into make and model it will cause confusion and a lot of repetition. I would find it more helpfull advising at the beginning that people should be familiarising themself with what Modelyear and Turbo Style they find in their cars and limit the setup guide on Engine Type und Turbo Style.

What I would do in any case before going into the configuration section is do an outline of "MUST HAVES" in a sequential order before even considering preparation of any form.

I see in my environment very often people who read something and say "Great, I must have that" without taking into consideration how the hole thing works together.

Things such as:

(I made this mistake myself:) My first Car I tuned completely from the Performance side of things and was amazed to find out that later it handled like ---- and was like this a suicide weapon. Now, there are a lot of kids on this board, which on one hand is great news but on the other hand requires to point out that its not only safe preparing the car from the handling side but that there are as well seconds to be gained if the car handles well and breaks well!

Then: Exhaust System Options. IMO the Exhaust is the absolute must have done first thing in any attempt to tickle out more HP. But it may not be clear to everybody. At the same time it should be noted what to look for in those things. For example not every body style takes a 3" exhaust system in a "plug and play" fashion.

Then General Induction considerations: The best Turbo/Ported Head does not help a lot if the manifolds/exhaust can't pass the goods through. What and Why put in a BOV, how to quit the Airbox and what advantages there are etc.


The guide will be in my opinion a real successstory if it finally helps deciding where it is good to spent the money. For Example: I doubt it is good to spent 500$ on forged pistons if you are at a level of tune where for other factors you won't exceed 200hp. Meanwhile if you are at this level of tune it might be a very good idea to spent the 500 bucks instead on suspension and braking.

Outlining those basics and making understand their effect in my opinion helps to reduce the detailing of the Engine Setup Options in the Matrix Part of the Chart.

I would do it somehow like this:

1. Basics
-Suspension and Braking
-Drivetrain considerations broken down between Auto/Manual and HP Ranges
-Breathing (Intake / Exhaust considerations)
-Warning (I.E. Boost/Air Fuel risks etc)

2. Matrix (as it is right now, but based on Engine/Turbo Configuration (Year/Type) instead of breakdown by Model)

Other then this I find this idea very challanging and helpful!!!!

[MoparN75]

I populated the article with some more data. This should allow people to get the scope of the content I am looking for.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/vbarticles.php?do=article&articleid=60

So based on that, when would you all recommend fuel pumps, etc? Lets not forget those kinds of items.


Frank

Don't see a place in your chart for my 88 Lebaron conv 2.5 tII

[Stratman]

VEHICLE
87 Shelby CSX

ENGINE
88 2.2 non-common block
T2 Forged crank
Stock T2 rods
1 piece intake opened for 52 mm TB
J.E. Pistons 8.2:1 CR
Polydyn ceramic and dry film coatings
782 Race ported Swirl Head/ 2mm larger Intake valve-1mm larger Exhaust valve
MP 005 head gasket/MP head bolts
89 Turbo roller cam

TURBO/EXAUST
Extrude tube style Intercooler core 14"Tube Length x 3.25"Thick x 14"Wide (not including the end tanks)
2.5" IC piping
Ported stock exhaust manifold thermal coated inside and out
Garrett T3/T4 Hybrid T04E 50 trim/Stage 2 turbine wheel-.63 housing thermal coated inside and out
3" Swing valve/ Full 3" exhaust with Catco cat no muffler
New style Garrett wastegate
Old style Profec B boost controller

FUEL
Stock fuel system including rail
Accufab fuel pressure regulator
52 PPH injectors
55 psi static fuel pressure
109-112 fuel

DRIVETRAIN
Hughes Performance A-413 reverse pattern manual valve body
1.22 transfer gears - 2.85 diff gears
Hughes Performance 3800 stall
Spring and Block style semi-limited slip
11.5" Rapid Cool trans cooler
Stock axles/long automatic style pass axle

SUSPENSION
Front - 1.25" MP lowering spings on MP struts
Rear - 1.25" MP lowering springs/ Sears Booster shocks
24.5 x 8.5 x 15 M&H Racemaster Drag slicks on 6.5" Crabs/ .25" spacers
Drag strip alignment
Missing one middle swaybar bushing retainer bracket on drivers side (fell off somewhere)
Worn out bushings everywhere

ENGINE CONTROL/IGNITION
87 LM fully tunable
12^ base distributor timing
Stock Coil
8 MM Magnacore wires
Champion RN3C

FASTEST RECORDED TIMES- race weight 2759 w/driver
1/8 Mile Houston Motorsports Park 11/10/2007
30 psi Boost-around 70 degrees F or lower-around 40% humid
60' - 1.7294
330' - 4.8533
1/8 ET - 7.4376
1/8 MPH - 94.88

1/4 Mile Texas Motorplex 10/20/2007
26 psi Boost-83 degrees F-low humidity
60' - 1.869
330' - 5.036
1/8 ET - 7.695
1/8 MPH - 92.39
1000' - 10.015
1/4 ET - 11.988
1/4 MPH - 113.72

FWD PERFORMANCE DYNOCOM DYNO 11/9/2007
87 degrees F - 34% humidity - 29.69 inHg atmosphere
30 psi boost
344 HP @ 4600 RPM
413 Ft-lbs @ 4250 RPM

Dyno Sheet (http://www.turbofreak.com/pics_files/houston/30psidyno.jpg)

Any other info is at http://www.turbofreak.com/shelby.html

[Stratman]

It would be nice to see some ball bearing turbo setups on here.